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Door Lock Issue


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#1 jeffball610

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 01:44 PM

Recently my driver's door has failed to unlock from the key. It locks just fine, but won't fully unlock with the key. Thankfully, my trunk works fine and the stock jack "wrench" can reach inside the lowered window to pull up on the lock plunger ;-)

 

I went through the door linkage about a month ago to clean and inspect things and everything seemed fine and has worked until recently. Is there a common issue that fails that I should be looking for? It seems "spongy" when trying to unlock. Perhaps a failed plastic clip binding?


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#2 datzenmike

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 04:09 PM

On some I have seen the linkage from the lock down to the mechanism has a nylon adjusting 'nut' on it. Too much slack and all the travel is wasted moving the lever and linkage. Look and see if you have this.


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#3 shacks510

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 05:58 PM

Check the plastic keeper thingy that holds the bar into the swinging arm on the lock. They wear out. I bought some universal ones and put a zip tie on the back side of the keeper to keep it from sliding out since it was much longer than stock. I used a rubber grommet for 3 years until it wore out. Put a new plastic keeper and it's never locked so nicely. You shouldn't need to touch the plastic adjuster since it doesn't actually move.
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#4 mrbigtanker

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 09:29 PM

Recently my driver's door has failed to unlock from the key. It locks just fine, but won't fully unlock with the key. Thankfully, my trunk works fine and the stock jack "wrench" can reach inside the lowered window to pull up on the lock plunger ;-)

I went through the door linkage about a month ago to clean and inspect things and everything seemed fine and has worked until recently. Is there a common issue that fails that I should be looking for? It seems "spongy" when trying to unlock. Perhaps a failed plastic clip binding?


So if what your saying is when you unlock the door and the rod going to your indicator at the window falls back to lock, take the panel off get a pliers and twist that rod not hard but enough to take slack up. It works and it will cost nothing.

#5 jeffball610

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 02:53 PM

So if what your saying is when you unlock the door and the rod going to your indicator at the window falls back to lock, take the panel off get a pliers and twist that rod not hard but enough to take slack up. It works and it will cost nothing.

Not at all. I can see the rod moving, but it doesn't move enough to unlock.

 

I'll take a look at the "nuts" to see if anything is wrong.


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#6 mrbigtanker

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 05:38 PM

Not at all. I can see the rod moving, but it doesn't move enough to unlock.
 
I'll take a look at the "nuts" to see if anything is wrong.


When you turn the key does the rod fall back down.

#7 jeffball610

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Posted 20 July 2017 - 04:30 PM

I pulled the panel and took things apart to have a better look. I got some video of what's happening. I'm not quite sure if it's the lock or the "bracket" that attaches to it. What do you guys think?

 

https://www.youtube....h?v=Ao6SBPNyjbE


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#8 Crashtd420

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Posted 21 July 2017 - 03:14 AM

I could be wrong but Looks like something is stripped on the bracket... looks easy enough to pull that clip and bracket and see....

#9 jeffball610

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Posted 21 July 2017 - 12:55 PM

I could be wrong but Looks like something is stripped on the bracket... looks easy enough to pull that clip and bracket and see....

It did look like the bracket was stripped or that there was a groove in the lock casing.

 

It seems 510 lock sets aren't common on a Google search. Do 240Z and other makes work with the 510 linkage and door hole?


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#10 jeffball610

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 07:19 AM

At this point I'm looking to replace my locks and just key them to my current keys. However, new 510 locks don't seem to be common or reasonably priced. The 240Z stuff seems more common and better priced. This ebay listing says it fits 240Z etc. and 510. Are the locks similar enough that this will work?

 

Edit: Actually, a bunch more listings just showed up today that look promising and reasonably priced. I'd still like to know if they swap over though.


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#11 Crashtd420

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Posted 23 July 2017 - 09:18 AM

I you can try to really visually compare yours and the ones on ebay....
I bought some for my 521 listed for a 521... just not quite right... I was able to make it work but just something to be aware of...

#12 jeffball610

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Posted 01 August 2017 - 07:52 AM

I bought a set of locks from Z Car Depot for a 240Z, and they work :) You might need to turn the tab 180 degrees for one side of the car, but they seem to work just fine.

800-528-1-900x900.jpg

My issue seems to have stemmed from a spacer/cushion-thing on the arm that actuates the lock from the tumbler. Mine was still soft, but very loose in the mechanism. My passenger side didn't have it at all. Without this part, the key will not be able to turn enough to lock or unlock a door. I'm not sure why they went with this design over a more direct actuation, but it seems to be the root of my issue.

old_spacer.jpg

no_spacer.jpg

 

Since I was missing the passenger side and the driver side wasn't working right, I came up with a solution. It is probably only temporary since it's soft rubber, but I took a small vacuum nipple and cut the end off and cut it in half. I slid it over the actuation arm, and it works great. Very direct action on the locks with the keys.

vacuum_cap.jpg

vacuum_cap_installed.jpg

Hopefully this will help someone else who might be having issues with their door locks from the key and by using a more available tumbler from a 240Z, maybe we can keep a few more cars on the road.


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