wayno Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 I just use a stick of 1/2" X 1 1/2" piece of wood wedge shaped at one end, I have never had an issue with the chain moving. Basically I am just jamming the chain in the guides. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted July 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 My first valve is an intake and next one back is exhaust And do I Jam the woodend wedge in here? (Does anyone have a picture of it in there, a picture is worth a thousand words) How do I get it out when done and how do I get the timing chain off the cam sprocket? 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted July 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 I'm assuming this little nick in the rearadio most pulley is the timing mark. And the zigzag thing is the degree marker, the middle point being 0 degrees 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 :blush: Yes first valve is intake (was thinking of L series) Clean off the timing scale to be sure where 0 is. I think it's the very right hand one with each point being +5 degrees. That engine has not had enough oil changes. If down a quart add one of ATF and drive for a week then drain and change. ATF is very detergent and will loosen that black crap. ALWAYS change the filter with the oil. I recommend Chevron Delo 400 or Shell Rotella T in 15w40. It's a light diesel oil which still has high levels of ZDDP (much needed in our older 'flat tappet' engines to prevent cam/lifter scuffing and is more detergent than gas engine oils. This will clean the engine, so expect the oil to get dirty fast. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Well there's your problem...... Here is where I'm at so far. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 That gasket has been bad for a long, long time but just recently eroded over into the water jacket. With a new one you are going to notice a big improvement. Notice how clean #4 piston top is? Likely #3 is too. This is the cleaning action of steam. Carefully clean the block and head surfaces... you cannot have them too clean. Check that the head surface is flat. If you can slip a 0.005" feeler gauge under a straight edge anywhere, the head must be milled flat. I imagine the head is flat and the gasket just blew because this is what Z24 engines do. But check this anyway. There is no advantage to milling it, if it doesn't require it, so if you can't find any warping then it's good enough. 2 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 I think she's done for. What are my options from here? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Weld it up or get another head. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 D you have an idea on how much it would cost to get it welded and milled? I'm trying to decide if it is worth it Or to just call it.... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 There's probably a minimum charge for welding it. If it isn't warped and you are half ass handy you could file it down yourself. The gasket will do the rest. Milling is $30-$50. 1 Quote Link to comment
G-Duax Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Did you stop immediately when the hose blew off? If so then it couldn't have over heated. If you kept driving this was a really bad idea. Hoses and water are cheap. So is a tow bill compared to rebuilding an engine... 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted July 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Well my mindset right now is that I'm gonna scrap it bc there are alot of problems with it and I would rather put the money into something else. It also has me worried "what's next". I think I'll list it on the classifieds if anyone wants parts before it take it to the junkyard. Unless wine one wants to buy it as a parts truck Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 Welcome to vintage car ownership. The good news is you can always diagnose the problem and everything is fixable (certainly replaceable) by the owner. Not like today's cars. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted July 15, 2017 Report Share Posted July 15, 2017 The thing I like about my Datsuns is that they get me home 99.9 percent of the time, I may have to fix them on the road, but I can fix them and limp home or I can buy what I need at the nearest auto parts store and limp home, I have done it more times than I have fingers to count, the only time I had to have it flatbeded home was when a dogleg 5 speed locked up on me, it would not move under power. That head looks like it has been bad for a while, to me you could likely get it on the road again with a good used head, but I don't know what the other issues are you mentioned. 1 Quote Link to comment
Cheetosrdabest Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Not sure about the condition of the rest of your truck, but as far as cylinder heads go, a complete head (valves, cam, bolts...etc..)are about $70 at the pick a pulls. You've already done the hard work of getting it off, if it was me I would see if I could find a used one and throw it back together. Judging by the erosion, it has run some time with a pretty good bypass so imagine how much better it would run hitting on all four ! $70 bucks is less than a few fill ups :) Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted July 16, 2017 Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 Yep that is the price to pay for driving old vehicles. Usually the repair is less than the cost of one new truck payment if you do the work yourself. Unfortunately the newer vehicles seem to need a lift to fix anything so you are at the mercy of a shop and they are not merciful. I Still daily my 720 and ownership is getting close to the thirty year mark. I go to maine in the summer and my daily there is a 1968 beetle. My commute to maine/florida and work vehicle is a astro van with 205k miles. I am not sure what you can get for the cost of the repair that would be as reliable as the 720. there will always be a what's next for anything over ten years old. Good luck and part it out if you give up. You will get more money and the parts will give another 720 new life. Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted July 16, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2017 I've look around at the junkyard here to no luck. For some reason most of them only carry 1999 and newer. Im listing it on the classified if anyone need parts. Or just one me Quote Link to comment
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