DAT{521}SUN Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 I've been working on my truck for a while and I'm currently having problems.with adjusting the carburetor and noticed that the plastic sleeve on the accelerator pedal is broken. I'm not too sure if that's what most people refer it as but, it's part #2 pictured below. Now, my question, is there an aftermarket replacement for this even if it is made for another model or make? OR does anybody here have an extra one they are willing to sell? I am really trying to avoid buying an aftermarket pedal. Thanks, in advance for any help! ***I do apologize if this has been covered*** 1 Quote Link to comment
willz Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 Take a look at the thread in my sig towards the end I talk about using bike cable and kinda show how to do it 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 30, 2017 Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 I thinks he's asking more about that plastic piece #2, where the pedal pivots... This is the nissan part #18115-14800. Comes up most places discontinued... Put the part number (including nissan part, not just the number) in a Google search and a company concord-parts.eu, should come up about half way down the search page. .. Other than that I'm not sure... Could probably 3d print a replacement If you had dimensions... Little things like this and other ideas I've had really makes me want a 3d printer I would have jumped at the challenge but sorry that's not happening yet... If you come up empty handed private message me... I have a friend with a 3d printer.... I might be able to help. I'll just say it's for me and see if I can get a couple made.... 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT{521}SUN Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 I actually made that same search and had the same results. I was hoping that I was not the only one with this issue but, it seems that I am. I also thought about 3D printing to make an exact match but, I didn't have much luck with the local services on that one. In the meantime, I will still look for an alternative part found on other older vehicles. I doubt Datsun only made that piece for 2 models.......maybe. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 30, 2017 Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 Take Part #1 somewhere and find a piece of nylon tubing that will fit with part #2 over it. It's to prevent squeaking. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 30, 2017 Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 Try https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sleeve-bearings/=18am3oj You may have to buy a couple to get the length you need. 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT{521}SUN Posted June 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2017 Take Part #1 somewhere and find a piece of nylon tubing that will fit with part #2 over it. It's to prevent squeaking. I actually did try this at a couple local stores but, no luck. Try https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-sleeve-bearings/=18am3oj You may have to buy a couple to get the length you need. This will be a good place to search. Thanks for the link! 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted July 1, 2017 Report Share Posted July 1, 2017 You're welcome. Good luck. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 Check this out.... just got this printed up.... This is the original... This was 3d printed... Gonna test fit tonight.... sizes match up, the id is about .010 small, which I can drill out no problem. Once that's done my friend can adjust the print parameters and print some up in black.... Makes me really want a 3d printer but I'm not about to drop 1000, and my friend enjoys getting some use out of his so win win.... 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 The original is likely 'self lubricating' nylon. What is 3d made of? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 I think it's just a standard abs plastic... not sure if that's good or bad, but I can try it and see how it holds up, for now it's better than nothing... I'll install the white one in my truck and keep the original just incase... I would have to see if he can print using different matterial or not, I don't know too much about his 3d printer, but it something I'll look into... This was more a proof of concept, for size, shape and function.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 11, 2017 Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 So mike there is a self lubricating nylon filament that could be used... gonna check with my friend and see if his printer can handle it... what I found is the nylon has a slightly higher melting point to work. Some printers may not be able to print nylon... if his can maybe I'll be buying him a spool for the finished ones to be printed with.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 You might contact Mike Klotz to see if he is interested in making some of the bushings. He would be able to turn them out of the correct material on his lathe. If you have a drawing with dimensions this would help him to produce several of them. This all depends on how busy he is. Quote Link to comment
DanielC Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 I would think a company like McMaster & Carr would have plastic bushings in various sizes in stock. 2 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Where's the fun in that charlie.... and daniel I think that was where dat521sun looked and couldn't find the right sizes so we are trying this... I'm sure there s multiple ways to do this but this gives my friend and excuse to use his printer... The one we printed last night should be perfect.... all dimension came out how I wanted... only thing was the inside, had about .005 taper inside.... used a drill to smooth it out, waiting to go home and test fit ... the first time I measured my bushing which was a little worn... this time I measured the pedal and firewall bracket so I get a tighter fit to the bracket and just have to smooth out the inside not redrill... I Will happily post a pic of the dimensions needed if someone wants to come up with a better solution, for now this gets dat521sun back on the road without his throttle pedal flopping around... 1 Quote Link to comment
DAT{521}SUN Posted July 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 I would think a company like McMaster & Carr would have plastic bushings in various sizes in stock. I contacted them with the measurements but, said they did not have any recommendations. I also contacted another company similar to McMaster and had the same results. The 3D printer seems like it a did a good job. Now, we just have to see how well it works like Crashtd20 said. 1 Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 I'd just whip one up out of bronze - self lubricating and no worries of it breaking or wearing out any time soon. A piece that size is a couple bucks. Or the door hinge bushings everyone uses for shifter bushings may have a couple in the kit that would work? Otherwise the ABS printed version will hold up too. The original looks like ABS. It keeps the spring centered on the rod, so the only real pressure on it is the 2-3 lbs of spring tension. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 12, 2017 Report Share Posted July 12, 2017 Yes distributor guy a bronze replacement would be nice, I'm sure with what you do for a living it would be easy... I do large part machining for a living, parts that weigh a few thousand pounds but they don't let us do little side jobs like this.. the more times I come across problems like this makes me wish I had a small mill and lathe in my garage... With that said I'm about 90% satisfied with the printed bushing... It had a tight fit to the firewall bracket, and because of the ebrake cable when I was trying to install the pedal I cracked it.... so lesson learned .. Put the bushing on the pedal first then install both together... As far as the door pin bushing I think that might work I have one that fit the firewall good but the id is about .020 bigger then I would like... to keep in place the flanges would both need to be on the outside of the bracket, I wanna check a width from flange to flange, there is c clip on the pedal that needs to be installed... Like I said before a few ways to do this... I'll draw a pic up tomorrow and post the dimensions.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 So here is that diagram I promissed... Small edit to this... the firewall bracket sides are .100 thick and in between is 1.01" making up that 1.210 dimension 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Here are how the door pin bushings are... These fit the firewall bracket, but the inside was big by around. 020 - .030... Plus you need to keep the flanges to the outside and not exceed a wide of 1.435 or you won't get the c clip back in... These are close but should fit the width. Ideal is the .433 od, with a .320 id haven't found that specifically.... 2nd idea uses parts from 2 door pins, and would require a little moding to the firewall bracket... The brass has the .320 id,good fit to the pedal... but the od is .400... too small for the bracket... This could work by using the silver bushing too.. Drill out the bracket to fit the silver bushing, then drill the silver to fit the brass.. Again the 1.435 dimension will need to be address.... I think if you removed the .060 off both sides of the bracket it would work.... the 2 bushings flanges measure .105 thick.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted July 14, 2017 Report Share Posted July 14, 2017 Ok here are the part numbers I was using... This has the brass bushing in the first pic and the silver from the second... This is the brass bushing from the second pic... 1 Quote Link to comment
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