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Noll's '82 Lada Niva


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#1 Noll

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 03:36 AM

Just found this part of the forum, and I've been working on this car for a while and documenting it elsewhere, so I figure I might was well post it up here too.

 

Some backstory. Back in early 2015, a prior neighbor of my family (from before we moved) let me know that an elderly gentleman who he had been taking care of for a number of years had just passed away, and a Lada Niva was found in his garage. He, knowing that I was into cars, offered to sell it to me for very cheap. At the time, I didn't really know what a Niva was, but there was a possibility for me to get an essentially free car, so I jumped at the chance.

It turned out that "garage" in this context was a very liberal use of the term, so a bit of time was spent extricating the Niva from the half collapsed remains of a shed; one main beam stopped 1-2cm from hitting the front end:

 

36397490263_669689e5df_b.jpg

 

37039889272_13faea5807_b.jpg

 

36375081254_7f7db05209_b.jpg

 

37039889282_89f3308fbc_b.jpg

 

36375079544_39f1389ff7_b.jpg

 

Got it home, and promptly got the tow truck stuck:

 

36397489923_f6112cece8_b.jpg

 

Dog approved:

 

36375080804_bcbf2d19af_b.jpg

 

Fast-forward to December of last year, and it is largely unchanged. I did manage to get it running (just needed a new starter solenoid, started right up with the 15 year old gas in the tank), and cleaned out the inside & stripped a lot of the surface rust off, but it has three major roadblocks to getting it on the road:

- clutch plates rusted together

-brakes are siezed and need a rebuild

-rust; while the car only has 22000km on it, 15 years with half a roof was not kind to it. Behind the front arches needs work, as does in front of the rears, as well as the rear wheel arches themselves.

 

On the plus side:

- the 1st owner (I'm the 2nd) never drove it in bad weather or the winter; the rust is just from sitting.

- everything electrical works perfectly and is original.

-interior is pretty much perfect other than a couple dangling wires and one small rip in the driver's seat.

- fuel system is good, too; car happily started right up after the solenoid replacement with the 15 year-old gas (until it ran out of gas lol).

-doors, hatch, and hood are fine other than a few minor bits of rust on the bottom door seams.

 

37039888902_c98c3220b4_b.jpg

 

I decided to tackle the rust first, and bought 500$ of stuff from the Ukraine. Not bad value for money at all to be honest.

 

36375079254_aa50f13d70_z.jpg

 

Starting on the driver's side front quarter rust.

 

37021708686_49d3c9d36b_b.jpg

 

Underneath:

 

37039887242_6301a4f04e_b.jpg

 

Cleaned up a bit:

 

36375080474_4bfa537044_b.jpg

 

Layers of badness:

 

36375080264_84b3b421ac_b.jpg

 

37021707836_33fb4c4168_b.jpg

 

Chopped out neatly:

 

37021708486_d9fc04387b_b.jpg

 

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and from behind:

 

37039887772_8fe6db2232_b.jpg

 

I didn't think the floor was this bad, but oh well, not a huge deal:

 

37039888452_61c89d7228_b.jpg

 

Floor removed:

 

37021707526_34a52e8d88_b.jpg

 

body trimmed up and new fender piece mocked up:

 

37021708386_b19974e520_b.jpg

 

 

Luckily new subframe bits are available pre-made, saves me a lot of work. the one on the other side is even worse than this:

 

37039887142_0d12d9520a_b.jpg

 

Front panel rust turned out to just be surface, so that's nice:

 

37021708076_824f3672ef_b.jpg

 

In addition to all this, I replaced a few gaskets in the carb and exhaust system, but this is already pic-heavy enough as-is and I'm sure you've all seen similar stuff before.

 

I'm going to have a chance to work on the Niva for a week as of this Saturday, so I'm going to be updating this as I weld in the floor (I hope) and related bits. Planning on getting this on the road before I continue on my basketcase 260z so my family at least has some of their garage back haha.



#2 q-tip

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 05:08 AM

That's badass!

I yeald to the wisdom of Q on this one.

Fuck!!!!!!!! I guess QTip was right...


#3 Noll

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 05:14 AM

That's badass!

 

Thanks! It's an oddball old car for sure (2-door hatchbacks with locking diffs and hi/lo are surprisingly uncommon for SOME reason haha), but super cool IMO. Can't wait to finally get it on the road before too long.



#4 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 06:07 AM

Is it 4 wheel drive? That is awesome!


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Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#5 Noll

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 06:19 AM

Is it 4 wheel drive? That is awesome!

 

Yep, full-time 4WD, and also has locking centre diff (I'm going to get air lockers for the front and rear at some point), and a hi/lo range box too.

 

Enough ground clearance that I can work on it underneath without jacking it up, which is nice.



#6 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 08:51 AM

Rad! :cool:


Smokin' Joe's House of Datto's

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**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

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1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#7 difrangia

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 09:01 AM

LADA = Russian FIAT

 

What a neat toy.

 

I love it !!!

 

Lada_Niva__2.jpg


Better to have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy !!


#8 Draker

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 09:55 AM

So freaking cool!

View my 69 510 4dr Sedan - Build Thread
View my 71 510 2dr Sedan - Coming soon.

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#9 racerx

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Posted 23 June 2017 - 02:38 PM

Looks like my 81 ford fiesta 4×4

#10 Aibast

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 10:02 AM

Nice, we have special shop in here that sells new parts for these things. The are dirt cheap and as all russian stuff they are made in the same old soviet "quality" as everthing else ( read, you need to adjust, grind, bend, veld, drill to make them fit). You can run these things forever with some wire and basic tools.

PS. The still make them. http://www.lada.ru/e.../3dv/about.html


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#11 Noll

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 02:09 PM

Thanks, guys!

 

@Aibast, Yep, I've been getting most of my replacement bits from Ladapower.com in the Ukraine; as you say, cheap but need some work to fit nicely. I believe it's one of the longest produced 4x4's of all time, correct?

 

EDIT: The great parts availability is doubly nice, as my next planned project after my 260z is likely going to be SR20 swapping a Lada 1300 or 1600.

 

----

 

So, I attempted to start welding the drivers-side wheel well today, but I currently only have .030 flux core wire, and either couldn't get good penetration or kept blowing holes in the metal.

 

I don't currently have the budget to get a tank of shielding gas, as I got the mother of all speeding tickets a couple weeks ago (long story, I am an idiot), so it looks like I'll be limited to continuing to cut bad metal out of the drivers-side of the car this week.

 

A pic of my failure:

 

20170625_163046_zpslndlpybz.jpg



#12 Lockleaf

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 02:24 PM

What polarity is your stinger? It looks like you might have to reverse that. MIG uses ground strap as negative. Flux core uses the stinger as negative. Check that and see if it improves your results.

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#13 Noll

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 02:35 PM

What polarity is your stinger? It looks like you might have to reverse that. MIG uses ground strap as negative. Flux core uses the stinger as negative. Check that and see if it improves your results.

 

I'm pretty sure I set it as it should be for flux core, but I'll have a look in a few minutes and check.



#14 Noll

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 03:20 PM

Yep, set up properly as I thought, I think it's just a combo of flux core and the thin metal.

 

C4CF535A-ADD2-4B95-A8BE-0785940423D5_zps



#15 Aibast

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Posted 21 July 2017 - 08:32 PM

Here is a sales add of 2005 car in Estonia. Need another one?

http://eng.auto24.ee...3729?id=2573729


----2001 Renault Master

----1987 Volvo 740 "van"

----1996 Land Rover Discovery Tdi - SOLD

----1973 Volvo 142 DL 2.0  - SOLD

---- 2001 Volvo V70AWD 2.5 T5 - SOLD

---- 2004 Honda Civic 1.4L 5dr hatchback - Ecodaily - SOLD

---- 1996 Volvo 850 R 2.0L T5 155kW 300Nm - Daily driven family car - SOLD
---- 1979 Datsun 1500 (620) Pickup - Oldtimers rally car project - SOLD
---- 1992 Volvo 850 GL - one winter beater - SOLD
---- 1996 Volvo 480 Turbo - heavily modified trackcar --- youtube videos - SOLD
---- 1987 Volvo 744 Turbo - Turbobrick - TOTALED BY BMW
---- 1973 Volvo 142 GL - SOLD
---- 1983 Mazda 626 GC - SOLD


#16 Noll

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Posted 24 September 2017 - 04:14 PM

I was visiting family this weekend, and decided to get the hood back on. Not really much of an update, but It's good to have it back on after two years of it just lying on the roof of the car.

 

Depending on whether or not I'm able to pick up a pretty rust free 240Z that I've been looking at over the next couple weeks, I may be buying a fair amount of parts for the Niva to hopefully have it on the road for next spring (as it's wayyyy closer to done than my 260z).

 

36587002364_27e1446cb6_b.jpg

 

 

 

After taking this pic I realized that you can actually see 4 of my cars in it; in addition to the 260 and Niva, my red Outback is slightly visible in the hood reflection, as is one of my two Subaru Justys.

 

36587000934_ebaba63f44_b.jpg



#17 Noll

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Posted 08 November 2017 - 11:10 PM

I visited family a couple weeks back (college reading week), and wanted to get some progress done on this during the week I was there.

 

I've decided to work on this car in sections so I have a decent amount of visual progress to keep myself motivated. I started with the brakes; I'll still need to buy some more brake parts, but I got a good chunk of stuff done.

 

The first batch of parts I ordered:

 

37567676184_47676e58c4_b.jpg

 

New hardlines and hoses in. The drivers side was pretty simple, but the passengers side was a bit of a pain due to how far back the engine sits. They're not plumbed to the calipers yet for reasons that will become apparent. At some point I will strip all 4 wheelwells, POR15 (or RustBullet), and then bedliner/undercoat them properly.

 

37567679874_397b04646e_b.jpg

 

With that done, I cleaned up the calipers and tried to remove the bleeder screws. Unfortunately one bleeder screw on each caliper completely stripped out, and neither heat nor vicegrips would remove them.

 

37567674754_3f277dd360_b.jpg

 

I ended up drilling out the stuck screws, and at some point will run a tap through to uncover the threads.

 

37567672234_1378a82995_b.jpg

 

 

Moving onto the rear drums, I took everything apart (drums came off super easily, which is nice), cleaned it, and swapped new pads on while I had everything apart (the new pads came with the car and were old enough they had a disclaimer to say that they were now made without asbestos).

 

24407917848_f49ff02db9_b.jpg

 

The backing plates were a bit rusty, so I removed all the loose rust and applied some rust-coat paint (that coincidentally also came with the car and was from the late 80's. Still good though!). There's some paint runs/drips, but it is just to prevent rust from reforming and will never be seen, so who cares.

 

37567954434_10aca8e5af_b.jpg

 

 

I then removed the main front skidplate, wire-wheeled it to remove rust, loose paint, and undercoating, and gave it a few coats of bedliner (no pics of the finished product unfortunately). I don't know how good the bedliner will do, but I'm hopeful, and worst-case it's easy to touch up.

 

37567680354_bac6928606_b.jpg

 

 

I'm going to need to do the same to the suspension (front and rear) at some point too, as all the paint has flaked off, and combined with flakes of rust it generally needs a good cleanup. I'm thinking of doing the front control arms and rear axle in grey (as opposed to black like the rest of the underside) so i can better see any damage that  may occur when offroading.

 

37567679524_138517f5ac_b.jpg

 

 

A few other misc pics. It was good to have some proper time to work on my cars again.

 

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37567676734_20e0d86be1_b.jpg

 

 

Still to do/get with the brakes:

- center hardlines

- front caliper pistons (one is stuck, may as well get the kit to have spares)

- see if rear brake pressure regulator needs replacing

- rear wheel cylinders

- front brake splash guards to replace rusted ones

- get replacement rear brake t-fitting

- weld bolt on rear axle to replace one the broke off in the old T-fitting when removing old hardlines

- possibly get new front rotors

- misc brake hardware

 

There is a rear disc conversion kit available, so I'm debating purchasing that at some point too:

https://ladapower.co...-upgrade-detail

 

I'll order the rest of the brake parts that I need so they arrive during the xmas brake from college (if I want to go out in the cold to work on the car haha).



#18 q-tip

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 07:31 AM

Those rubber lines in that second picture look a little banjo stringed, is the suspension at full droop?

I yeald to the wisdom of Q on this one.

Fuck!!!!!!!! I guess QTip was right...


#19 Noll

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 11:44 AM

I think that's just the pic; they aren't attached to anything at the bottom (and there's nothing for them to get caught on), and the suspension was at normal ride height.

 

EDIT: also, the brackets that the hoses are supposed to attach to under the upper balljoint are completely rusted out, so until I get/or make new brackets (probably will purchase as they're super cheap) they're just dangling there.



#20 q-tip

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Posted 09 November 2017 - 02:00 PM

That would explain why they look like that.

I yeald to the wisdom of Q on this one.

Fuck!!!!!!!! I guess QTip was right...