Anyone got a 'how to install a weber 32/36?'

[LenRobertson]

Good advice given on use of torque wrench and Loctite, especially for the bolts holding the adapter plate to the intake manifold. If those loosen, the carb needs to be removed to re-tighten them.

 

Every time this subject comes up I'm tempted to ask what torque value to use to torque the adapter plate bolts. But I thought I'd not be lazy and go ahead and do my own research. Yikes, talk about falling down a rabbit hole!  Most of this information I knew in general terms - torque value is different for dry threads vs oiled threads vs threads coated with anti-seize compound. Different grade fasteners are torqued to different values. But it gets more complicated - threading into cast iron vs aluminum requires a slightly different torque value. According to which random person posts on a particular online forum, Loctite may (or may not) have approximately the same coeffecient of friction as oil. Posters on forums say Loctite doesn't have torque recommendations on their website and calls to Loctite reps don't give definitive answers.

 

So does anyone have a torque figure they use for the adapter plate bolts (of unknown grade but look somewhat "hard") using Loctite Blue 242?

 

Len

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Rabbit holes get deeper and deeper and deeper...

 

You forgot studs. Torque values change for stud applications as well.

 

I generally torque 8mm bolts in that application starting at about 12 ft/lb and going as high as 20 ft/lb. I let the torque wrench built into my arm tell me the final figure. Seeing as there is a gasket and a cheap, thin, aluminum plate in play here, I would stay between 12 and 15 ft/lb.

[flatcat19]

I would do tiny increments, 24 inch lbs, until I reach ten, twelve or so lbs.

 

Seems like a hassle, but that tiny aluminum plate will tweak out quickly.

[d.p]

So blue loctite on the studs torqued to 12ft/lb? I read somewhere people using anti seize on studs which seems contrary to the advice here. Maybe just for exhaust manifold studs?

And kudos to xxmas cause he has great pics. Using the same tall adapter as well.  Do you have a short air filter on the rocker outlet?? That because that hose got nowhere to go on the weber?   When you installed the stock Hitachi throttle cable holder doohickey did you have to bend back that tab on the weber?  Looks like a locking tab.  

[Doctor510]

So blue loctite on the studs torqued to 12ft/lb? I read somewhere people using anti seize on studs which seems contrary to the advice here. Maybe just for exhaust manifold studs?

 

And kudos to xxmas cause he has great pics. Using the same tall adapter as well.  Do you have a short air filter on the rocker outlet?? That because that hose got nowhere to go on the weber?   When you installed the stock Hitachi throttle cable holder doohickey did you have to bend back that tab on the weber?  Looks like a locking tab.  

Look closely, the Weber Air cleaner is supplied with a 90* fitting for the valve cover vent. If you use the tall adapter. you may not be able to close the hood. Use the cable adapter from you Hitachi carb, not the Swiss cheese thing.

[racerx]

I used loctite not anti sieze

[racerx]

If the gets in the way try using a thinner weber air filter.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

So blue loctite on the studs torqued to 12ft/lb? I read somewhere people using anti seize on studs which seems contrary to the advice here. Maybe just for exhaust manifold studs?

Think of the penalty for failure.

 

Exhaust hardware is exposed to intense heat and cooling cycles. This causes corrosion which can fuse or seize a fastener making it impossible to remove. Hence the anti seize.

 

Intake hardware is not exposed to intense heat so the fusing isn't a problem, but vibrations there can cause things to come loose. It's a pretty common issue actually. That's why everyone will recommend using loctite on intake, or more specifically, carburetor mounting hardware. Intake manifold to head hardware should use antiseize, but for different reasons.

 

The anti seize compound used where a bolt goes into aluminum (manifold to head) will keep it lubricated so there is less danger of stripping the aluminum threads.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I would do tiny increments, 24 inch lbs, until I reach ten, twelve or so lbs.

 

Seems like a hassle, but that tiny aluminum plate will tweak out quickly.

Yes, especially considering the squishy paper gasket. If there were a harder gasket or no gasket at all, the potential for warpage or cracking in the adapter would be far less.

[racerx]

I never used a torque wrench on mine I snugged them good, across pattern of tightening them, then sprayed carb cleaner on carb and base, after warmed, to see if it had vacuum leaked. Then just tightened a little more and done. Some will say don't use carb cleaner and use brake cleaner spray.

[flatcat19]

So blue loctite on the studs torqued to 12ft/lb? I read somewhere people using anti seize on studs which seems contrary to the advice here. Maybe just for exhaust manifold studs?

And kudos to xxmas cause he has great pics. Using the same tall adapter as well.  Do you have a short air filter on the rocker outlet?? That because that hose got nowhere to go on the weber?   When you installed the stock Hitachi throttle cable holder doohickey did you have to bend back that tab on the weber?  Looks like a locking tab.

 

There should be a white 90° valve that came with the Weber kit. That goes to the filter plate on the bottom. This is where you route the valve cover vent to.

 

I used one of the cone filters on mine instead of routing the valve cover vent to the filter. I prefer the cleaner look.

 

 

Fuck function.

[racerx]

Flat cat, you mean cone filter hooked up to you valve cover?

[flatcat19]

Flat cat, you mean cone filter hooked up to you valve cover?

Didn't really sound clear, did it.

 

Yes. I capped the hole in the filter plate and I stalled a cone on the VC vs running hose to air filter as intended.

[d.p]

xxmas has the hose from the fender connected to the bottom of his filter and a short cone on the valve cover.   FC you just plugged yours?  I guess a couple different ways to skin this cat?

[flatcat19]

Watch what you say about skinning cats.

[xxmass]

xxmas has the hose from the fender connected to the bottom of his filter and a short cone on the valve cover. FC you just plugged yours? I guess a couple different ways to skin this cat?

It's an 8/71 build date 521. It did have the Hitachi and dual points dizzy when I purchased. The exhaust manifold does not have any plugged holes where the air injection would have been, so I don't know if one of the PO's de-smogged it, or it never had it. Also has the A46 intake with engine coolant loop intact.

 

The Hitachi leaked really bad. The timing was advanced so far to compensate that it was not much fun to drive. The Weber and Matchbox were an unbelievable upgrade.

 

I did have a '71 240 that I de-smogged. I ordered the plugs from mcmaster-carr.

[d.p]

Weird because mine has a build date of 11/70 so I would assume anything after mine should have the same smog crap.  But like you said maybe a PO de-smogged it already?  I got a matchbox dizzy that crash gave me just waiting to get installed.  My plan was to install the Weber first but that hasn't gone so well.  Will attempt it again once the adapter shows up.  

 

Was your vacuum advance threaded on the dizzy side?  Mine is.   And that is your brake booster line going to the air intake on the weber in the pic below??  And what size is that short filter on top of your valve cover? 

 

[d.p]

See the horizontal tube that connects all exhaust?

 

Cut right under it where those little vertical tubes are. Fold vertical tubes to seal. That doo-hickey will now be absent.

 

Your air pump is now obsolete. Remove all that nonsense.

 

 

If I were to remove that rail then all of this shit outlined in RED would come out too? I assume the air pump is bottom in the middle with the belt on it?  I don't need any of this stuff?  

 

 

Found a couple threads from the datsungather and fisch about de-smogging.  

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/26981-my-new-521/page-3 

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/69589-one-way-to-de-smog-an-l-series-exhaust-manifold/

[banzai510(hainz)]

the later L 16s in 521s and soem 510 didnt have the injection air pump. I think it was a cam change or soemthing like that and they didnt need it the last years

 

 

my 521 listed as 72

I also had a beat 510 as a late 72 ealy 73 an had no air injection pump

[d.p]

Having said that is the pump on my '71 needed?  Or can I delete it and everything attached to it?  

[datzenmike]

The valve cover breather must be open to let fresh air in that is drawn out of the crankcase by the PCV valve. Under certain conditions, blow-by will exceed the PCV's ability to handle and will back up and out the breather on the valve cover. It would be best that a hose directs them into the throat of the carb to be drawn in and burned. L'il blue cone filters can let smelly gasses into the cab. Some would think a small price to pay for great looks. :lol:

[xxmass]

[xxmass]

[xxmass]

[xxmass]

 

The little cone filter inlet had to be modified a little bit larger to fit over the 3/4" nipple on the valve cover. It may have been ordered as 1/2 or 5/8.