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Anyone got a 'how to install a weber 32/36?'


d.p

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Ratsun is funny because everyone saying cut,weld,fold,delete but as soon as I talk about swapping the vacuum advance diaphragm from one dizzy to another its like I'm about to kick a baby in the face.  

 

Anyways...still waiting for parts to show up so no movement on this, hopefully later today or tomorrow.  

It seems to me that every time another item gets introduced it gets confusing as hell, so those of us who have been with you on this from the beginning are trying to help you tackle each problem, one at a time.

 

I'd rather drive a car or truck that's 90% than look at a perfect one sit un-driven. Nothing gets the motivational juices flowing like a braaaaap.

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Ratsun is funny because everyone saying cut,weld,fold,delete but as soon as I talk about swapping the vacuum advance diaphragm from one dizzy to another its like I'm about to kick a baby in the face.  

 

Anyways...still waiting for parts to show up so no movement on this, hopefully later today or tomorrow.

We are just trying to help, it seems that every time you try to do something, something always gets screwed up. Changing out the distributor is easy and if you have a petronics that is ready to go just use it. From some of your post it seems as though you have limited experience working on your truck. I.E. How do you get the caps off the front hubs. Just keep it simple and use some of the advice you have been given. Not trying to "dis" you. I have been working on cars and trucks for 50 years, trying to share some experience here

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I gotta defend DP a little.... at least with the vacume unit on the dizzy....

Some people are good at MacGyver ing stuff and some arent.... he did what he felt confident with to keep the truck running and driving..

Personally I think the whole popped cam chain tensioner made him a little too cautious on some other easier things, but that's how we learn..

Try , fuck up , ask questions, fix, and don't do that again....

I tend to forget the easy things I've done but my mistakes and fixes I'll never forget....

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I here you rick-rat didn't think your were putting him down....

I actually sent him the dizzy with the petronix and was the first to hope he wouldn't switches the parts around ...

I understood after...

Truck not running, didn't have a timing light or extra hoses....

He solved his problem, atleast that one temporarily with what he had and can now drive it till parts show up...

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The only thing I have fucked up so far on this truck was the chain tensioner and that was because the stupid wedge broke.  

 

List of shit I have done in the little time I have owned it (8 months or so):

  • new alt
  • new fuse box
  • new windshield (had help from pro)
  • lowered and re-indexed
  • head gasket (shop replaced tensioner and adjusted valves)
  • new clutch slave 
  • new brake MC
  • speed bleeder valves, re-assembled rear drum
  • Interior carpet w/dyna mat
  • rear view mirror, new VR, some other little shit

Honestly I don't care if I get shit on for asking so many questions, is the way I learn and as Crash said it helps me avoid making dumb mistakes (not always).    This truck has become my hobby and I like talking about it with you nerds.   And like xxmas said I got a twin turbo M3 that I can drive around if my truck isn't running.   

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The only thing I have fucked up so far on this truck was the chain tensioner and that was because the stupid wedge broke.  

 

List of shit I have done in the little time I have owned it (8 months or so):

  • new alt
  • new fuse box
  • new windshield (had help from pro)
  • lowered and re-indexed
  • head gasket (shop replaced tensioner and adjusted valves)
  • new clutch slave 
  • new brake MC
  • speed bleeder valves, re-assembled rear drum
  • Interior carpet w/dyna mat
  • rear view mirror, new VR, some other little shit

Honestly I don't care if I get shit on for asking so many questions, is the way I learn and as Crash said it helps me avoid making dumb mistakes (not always).    This truck has become my hobby and I like talking about it with you nerds.   And like xxmas said I got a twin turbo M3 that I can drive around if my truck isn't running.   

Oh d.p. you'll be a nerd soon enough. After digesting the information on valve lash adjustment, I must have performed it 4 or 5 times one summer thinking I could squeeze a little performance from the little Dat. And Now... I'm adjusting valve lash on my little Honda F20c. Ratsun nerds for the win! Much respect for tribal knowledge and the sharing of it. From what I understand the Australians have a very similar car culture.

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Got it installed and only problem I ran into was throttle cable was a little tight. Loosened it up and she purrs at idle. Throttle sticks though...can I use the stock return spring to bring it back?

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I drilled a hole in the side of the filter cap and used the stock return spring which seems to be working A-OK.  

 

35637750146_88a4113c0a_z.jpg

 

And can someone tell me which is screw is which here?  And how to fine tune this fucker?  I only ask because I was messing with them before I realized it was the throttle cable that was tight and causing high RPMs.  

 

35677333695_65987a6278_z.jpg

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Bottom screw looks like ur idle mixture and don't have that spring on mine. Read up on how to adjust first before u start adjusting which can lead to a rabbit hole. Search for weber tuning guide on this site, I know I saw it. Good luck.

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I searched the web got this article http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htmfollowing that got it idling and running better than it was with the Hitachi.  

 

I also went and capped off all the emissions stuff and pulled those hoses.  I left the runners and the air pump because I didn't want to cut the runners yet and I would have to cut the belt on the air pump to get that off (it goes behind the crank/alt belt).  I got no hoses going to my air filter though and not sure if that matters?  The crank case is just a short cone filter and every other hose (except vacuum advance) have been capped off.  Should I vent the fuel vapor hose (too short to reach weber) or can I leave that capped as well (red cap bottom of first pic)?  

 

35549038801_a791e2677d.jpg

 

And its all done:

 

34838412444_79e9b6047a.jpg

 

34838412484_b7549936e4.jpg

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Before taking off, let the car idle at operating temp, then spray some brake cleaner around base of carb and area, check for vacuum leaks. Then drive it if okay, then check ur spark plugs. If color is good, not sooty and black, maybe brownish or tan not too black, then good to go.

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