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510 guy just got a 240z....now what?


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#21 dgi

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 05:42 PM

Here is a solution for the hubcap (with one to spare).

https://charlotte.cr...6147259878.html

 

00p0p_cnHMc3yWrSw_600x450.jpg



#22 datzenmike

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Posted 28 June 2017 - 05:52 PM

-deleting the PCV valve and venting crankcase to a catch can

 
Wrong! PCV is totally benign in operation. It removes harmful water, gas and combustion vapors from the crankcase and prevents them diluting the oil. Actually extends the oil change interval as compared to no PCV. Catch cans are totally useless on the street and are only required on many race tracks to collect oil from an exploded engine and keep it off the track. Keep the PCV it's your engine's best friend.

 

 


280ZX brake swap does not apply to the S30. It only applies to other Datsuns like the 510 or 610.
 
That is why the Toyota calipers are mentioned for a front brake upgrade. That is the common swap. Keep your 240Z struts and bolt on calipers.

 

The S30 strut is much different from other Datsuns and why a zx will not work on it, but will on the 510, 610, 710, A10, S10, S110, B210. (probably more...)


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#23 compression

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Posted 28 July 2017 - 10:10 AM

Guys, 

I am troubleshooting a power draw.

When I connect the battery (ign off), I get a click form this relay:

 

IMG_4928.jpg

Can anyone tell me what this relay does?  Or maybe tell me where I can find a nice full-size color wiring diagram for the car?


Aaron S.
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#24 NC280z

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Posted 29 July 2017 - 02:00 PM

XenonS30 has wiring diagrams in the FSMs for our cars, full color ones are hard to find in good quality, but here's a link to one.

 

http://imgur.com/yoSWe



#25 ByStickel

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Posted 18 September 2017 - 12:47 PM

I  strongly suggest you do no mods that cannot be easily replaced with stock parts. That car looks too nice to hack up.

 

Also, I would gain access to the rockers and inside the doors to treat them with an oily rust preventative. Get it all over the surfaces near the bottom where moisture will collect, and make sure the drains are clear. I'd ADD drains underneath for the doglegs. They collect moisture and have no exit points; that's why they rust. Give the water a place to exit, and treat inside them, too. There are numerous spots where Zs rust, and if you treat them now, and occasionally, the thing will stand a great chance of lasting a long time.

 

Congrats.


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#26 compression

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Posted 13 March 2018 - 08:35 PM

First off, sorry no pictures in this post. Those will come later, when I have time to sort through them all.

 

Man, I did a lot of work to the car over this winter (2017/2018). So many things changed. I am calling this Phase 1 mods (L-series, suspension, wheels/tires, brakes, etc). If I decide I love the car and want to keep it forever, I will plan Phase 2 for another year or two down the road (body/paint, engine swap, interior, etc)

 

So this winter been hard at work on the following:

-Reassembled an L28 I got off of craigslist. Replaced all critical parts (yes, I used an OEM head gasket)

-Sent the SU's off to Z-therapy for a rebuild...still waiting for those to come back....

-Removed every non-critical component from the engine bay, they cleaned and painted it

-New brake master cylinder (for disc brakes) and new brake lines along with a Wilwood prop valve

-Reassembled L28 and dropped it in with new everything pretty much

-installed electronic distributor

-Redid engine bay wiring

-Made new spark plug wires

-New clutch and resurfaced flywheel

-same 4-speed transmission

-Installed MSA 6-1 header and matching 2.5" exhaust system (great fit by the way!)

-took out fuel tank and treated/coated the inside and got the exterior powder coated

-installed electric fuel pump by fuel tank (mechanical one went bye-bye)

 

-Removed ALL suspension from the vehicle front and rear and power washed the complete underside of the car

-installed BC Racing coilovers

-Got all suspension brackets and arms powder coated and installed new poly bushings

-Installed T3 GTX2 front control arms

-Toyota 4-piston calipers and 300zx rotors on the front

-Maxima rear calipers and 300zx rotors on the rear, with working parking brake

-All stainless braided teflon brake hoses

-New OEM rear hub bearings

-Suspension techniques swaybars front and rear

-New front hub bearings

-New tie rods and refreshed the steering rack

 

-New wheels, 16x8F, and 16x9R Rota Grids (yeah I know, but they will work for the time being until I find something I really like or get a custom wheel set made)

-MSA bolt-on ZG flares and all the corresponding wheel well cutting that goes with these

 

-installed some sparco seats

-installed sparco steering wheel

 

I think that is about it.....Once the carbs come back, then I can fire this thing up! 


Aaron S.
Portland, OR
 


#27 Crashtd420

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 03:21 AM

Lot of work getting done..... nice job....
Just a heads up what's the fuel pressure on the electric pump your using....
I dont know if you did or plan to, but You might wanna install a pressure regulator and gauge. At minimum check the pump output psi....
I've seen people (including myself) struggle to set carbs when all along the electric fuel pump was putting out to many psi....
I used a low pressure Holley 12-804 it's 1-4 psi... and you can install a gauge in the second output port.....

#28 compression

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 07:23 AM

Yep, I have a plan for monitoring and regulating the fuel pressure. Thanks for the tip though!

 

 

Lot of work getting done..... nice job....
Just a heads up what's the fuel pressure on the electric pump your using....
I dont know if you did or plan to, but You might wanna install a pressure regulator and gauge. At minimum check the pump output psi....
I've seen people (including myself) struggle to set carbs when all along the electric fuel pump was putting out to many psi....
I used a low pressure Holley 12-804 it's 1-4 psi... and you can install a gauge in the second output port.....


Aaron S.
Portland, OR
 


#29 Crashtd420

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 11:03 AM

Seen you doing a whole lot of work, Just wanted to make sure the start up went good....
Keep up the good work....

#30 datsunfreak

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 03:19 PM

First off, sorry no pictures in this post. Those will come later, when I have time to sort through them all.

 

You're a good photographer, and you should know better.   ^_^


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#31 compression

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 04:04 PM

OK John, you talked me into it! :-) Here are some teasers

mmz8z8.jpg

4fworl.jpg


Aaron S.
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#32 datsunfreak

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Posted 14 March 2018 - 04:46 PM

Consider me teased sir...   ^_^

 

 

Been thinking of doing the plug wires that way on the current 510 I'm working on. Did you start with a DIY kit? Thinking stock length isn't long enough...


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#33 Crashtd420

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 04:37 AM

Consider me teased sir... ^_^


Me too.... the plug wires do look super clean that way....
And damn that's some tire back there.....

#34 compression

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 07:00 AM

I made the plug wires using an MSD "Street fire" kit. The kit came with a crimping tool. 

 

 

245/45/16...because an L28 needs all that tire.... ha ha haaaa.


Aaron S.
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#35 datsunfreak

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Posted 15 March 2018 - 11:57 AM

I made the plug wires using an MSD "Street fire" kit. The kit came with a crimping tool. 

 

And now Summit is sending me one too. Thanks!   :thumbup:


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#36 darrel

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Posted 05 April 2018 - 09:11 PM

Don't forget David Irwins headlight and parking light relay harnesses. Plug and play. It will save the fuse block and combo switch.