natesmith8 Posted June 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 My recommendation is get a decent volt meter and learn how to use it... Start at the battery for a base line of what your voltage is and then start checking.... two places I would start is fuse block and ignition switch.... I am going to buy one right now. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 And I say volt meter because even low voltage can turn a cheap test light on... they have there use but volt meter in my opinion is the better way.... maybe grab both if you like.. chase the power around with the cheapy and verify voltage as needed.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 Ok added start point.... Battery Starter Fuse block Ignition switch.... I was re reading trying to get a better idea of the situation.... But make sure your starter has power and the little spade gets power from the key when you turn the key to the crank position... Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 Hey Everyone, I have come here a couple time and you all have been able to solve my problem almost immediately, so, I am here again. I am a complete novice at engine repair (as a heads up) I was driving one day out about 40 mph and the truck suddenly lost all power. The alternator is pretty new, replaced about 1.5 years ago. The battery has also been checked and it is good. I had someone tell me that it could either be a spark plug or the fuel pump. Any other ideas or help on this would be appreciated! If you need pictures, let me know and ill post them on here! Thanks again everyone! Not at all. There is no power whatsoever If this was a charge issue the truck would have acted up first. The fact that it suddenly lost power proves this. There is a single fusible link the provides power from the battery to the truck. The fact that the headlamps work proves it's intact. The fusible link goes to two places.... the fuse box and the ignition switch. Check that the ignition switch is still plugged into the harness. Probably came loose. Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Maybe even starter cable being loose 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Maybe, but the engine wouldn't have died for this alone. 2 Quote Link to comment
Jersey Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Sorry for being an idiot about all this, I'm trying hard to learn about it, but its taking time. You're not being an idiot: Sometimes we just need a little help from our friends... Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I still want to hear if the dash lights come on with the key in the on position and how the fuses look :) Quote Link to comment
Jersey Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I went to Lancaster yesterday and went to start my truck and it did start but it was a slow and weak turnover. I then stopped by to see my friend Gene and I go to leave: It's completely dead! The first thing I did was remove terminals and clean them as well as the posts, thankfully it fired right up! The terminals are new, so I figured it was just a bad connection: so far today no issues... 3 Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Maybe, but the engine wouldn't have died for this alone. Forgot that was the issue Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I went to Lancaster yesterday and went to start my truck and it did start but it was a slow and weak turnover. I then stopped by to see my friend Gene and I go to leave: It's completely dead! The first thing I did was remove terminals and clean them as well as the posts, thankfully it fired right up! The terminals are new, so I figured it was just a bad connection: so far today no issues... That happens all the time .. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I assume the battery is good. A poor battery will always turn the starter slowly. Those after market terminals that are bolted to the cable ends are terrible. The stock molded in ones, are the best. They must be kept clean. The battery posts clean and the terminals tight. Don't forget the ground cable where it bolts to the head and the positive where it bolts to the starter lug... both clean and tight. There should be a ground strap from the negative terminal or the cable or from the engine to the body sheet metal. Many of the car's electrical accessories are ground return through the body. It has to get to the negative side of the battery and the only path is through the grounded engine which is rubber isolated from everything. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 When that happened to me, I found that the alternator had a short in it, it blew the main +12V line from the alt to the main harness. Yep, I've had that happen before. 1 Quote Link to comment
Jersey Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I assume the battery is good. A poor battery will always turn the starter slowly. Those after market terminals that are bolted to the cable ends are terrible. The stock molded in ones, are the best. They must be kept clean. The battery posts clean and the terminals tight. Don't forget the ground cable where it bolts to the head and the positive where it bolts to the starter lug... both clean and tight. There should be a ground strap from the negative terminal or the cable or from the engine to the body sheet metal. Many of the car's electrical accessories are ground return through the body. It has to get to the negative side of the battery and the only path is through the grounded engine which is rubber isolated from everything. Thanks Mike! I do have those after market terminals...I'll get the molded ones next time. And as far as the battery...I don't know the history on it, it was my brothers and who knows where or when he got it. Yesterday was the first time it gave me trouble, I'm running around Bakersfield today and all is well... Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Get your battery check. Oreillys or autozone can do that, this way you have a base. Did you check your ballast resistors connection as mentioned. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 get one of those volt meters taht plug in the cig lighter/ they cheap and work so you can see if its loading down before it totally goes bad Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 Get your battery check. Oreillys or autozone can do that, this way you have a base. Did you check your ballast resistors connection as mentioned. The ballast resistor only comes into play when the ignition key returns to the RUN position when starting. During START 12 volts goes to the coil from the ignition. At the same time, START sends a signal to the starter solenoid to activate the starter. I'm guessing that if the ignition is ON the heater fan, wipers, radio are all not working in addition to no starter. This is possibly the loss of 12 volts from the fusible link (remember the link must be OK as the headlamps still work) on the large gauge White wire to the ignition switch itself. The most likely thing is the harness plug fell out of the back of the ignition switch, or someone has messed with the ignition switch previously. Quote Link to comment
natesmith8 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 Alright Fellas! Sorry that I have been out of town for this last week and was unable to check on any of the above. I am now back and have went out to check some of the things that have been mentioned here. 1st thing: I checked each of the fuses with my new multimeter. (It took a few video tutorials to know how to use it properly) If you look at the pictures that I shared, if you look at the fuses, the top left and the top right are both bad. I don't know what those two correlate to with the engine. Could this possibly be the problem? 2nd thing: I think my battery must be dead because I went to check on the dash lights and all that, and now I'm not even getting anything on my headlights. We know those worked after what happened since I had checked those already. So possibly dead battery now due to lack of use? I will go down now and check if the harness plug has fell out of the ignition switch (as long as there is somewhere online that can show me how to do that) Thanks for everything so far, believe it or not, I have already learned a lot! Quote Link to comment
natesmith8 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 Ok, just checked the harness switch, I don't think it is that, it was in there firm, nothing looked wrong with any of the wires and nothing looked loose for as long as I could follow the wires. What is the next thing I should check? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 Top right fuse is for the headlamps.The two below it are powered at all times. The top left are powered through the ignition switch and are on only when the ignition switch is on. (if that's working) Try the horn. If battery is charged. Quote Link to comment
natesmith8 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 Top right fuse is for the headlamps.The two below it are powered at all times. The top left are powered through the ignition switch and are on only when the ignition switch is on. (if that's working) Tyr the horn. So, I need to have the fuses put in, and the ignition switch on, then check the top left and right with the multimeter? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 Don't trust any fuse just replace them. Try the horn... if working the battery is good. A new fuse should get your headlamps working. Sometimes they are just corroded and taking one out and putting it back solves the problem. I like to unplug the fuse box and remove it. Soak over night in a solution of lemon juice and salt, rinse thoroughly and dry. The acid i the juice removes any tarnish on the copper contacts. 1 Quote Link to comment
natesmith8 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 If I take all the fuses into an auto part store, will they know how to replace them? Or should I tell them anything specific? As for the fuse box, just unplug it, with all the fuses out of it, and put it in a container with lemon juice and salt overnight? Do i put any water in the solution as well or no? 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 My 86 king cab 720 did this yeaterday on my way to have it emission tested, however I knew why it did it. I ran out of gas on purpose as my gas gauge quit working and I need to pull my tank. I wish your problem was that easy. Mike is correct start with the fuse and clean the fuse block. The old fuse blocks tarnish over the years and loose the conductivity. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 29, 2017 Report Share Posted June 29, 2017 Lemon juice and salt. Quote Link to comment
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