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Important Information About Tapered Inserts


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#21 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 24 June 2017 - 08:18 AM

Wouldn't you want to take it down so that the insert couldn't possibly shift the amount it's sticking out on the nut side?

That's what I was thinking. The cotter pin thing was secondary.



#22 2wheel-lee

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 09:22 PM

What I don't understand is why you're flipping the link at the end position of pitman and idler arms. Isn't the center link on the middle hole of those arms? If you flip the tie rods, you might be into some bump steer. And if you swap the center link position with the tie rods, your steering is going to be jacked.

 

 

Test fitment went well; will be installing on truck.

 

Image of test fitment:

 

Yb5YSsX.jpg

 

le9qqVb.jpg

 

 

Image of  secured good tierod with boot.

 

 

 

j7jtRX3.jpg

 

 

Image of test fitment after the good tierod was pressed in to expand

 

CvbErjB.jpg



#23 GERMS

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Posted 25 June 2017 - 10:13 PM

Correct me if I'm wrong; but maybe he's using a trashed pitman/idler arm and using it for testing purposes? :confused:

#24 Moist Lightning

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 06:06 AM

What I don't understand is why you're flipping the link at the end position of pitman and idler arms. Isn't the center link on the middle hole of those arms? If you flip the tie rods, you might be into some bump steer. And if you swap the center link position with the tie rods, your steering is going to be jacked.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong Stoffregen; but maybe he's using a trashed pitman/idler arm and using it for testing purposes? :confused:

 

Yes that correct, just a spare. I measured to ensure both centerlink and outer tie rods are the same diameter. I drilled the 11/16 through the other hole which fit better than the 45/64 in the pic.



#25 2wheel-lee

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 07:29 AM

OK, thanks...I was wondering what was going on!

 

Thanks for sharing your findings. I will be doing this soon. I was going to use the goforits with TJ TREs, but with my truck being as low as it is, I don't want the center link to hit the ground before the bolt-in cross member. This gives me another option. 



#26 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 08:15 AM

Correct me if I'm wrong Stoffregen; but maybe he's using a trashed pitman/idler arm and using it for testing purposes? :confused:

Either way, I would still make sure it fits flush.

 

Good point about bump steer. Have you test fit the new tie rod and cycled the suspension?



#27 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 09:55 AM

Bump steer will remain the same, as the center link moves parallel to it's previous position. It is just below the arms now instead of above them.

 

The center link is assembly 12 in the pic. 

 

 

620-120-01.jpg

 

 

Weird that it doesn't show the idler arm assembly..... 


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Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#28 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 09:57 AM

Yes that correct, just a spare. I measured to ensure both centerlink and outer tie rods are the same diameter. I drilled the 11/16 through the other hole which fit better than the 45/64 in the pic.

 

 

Nice, 11/16 bit is easier to get.  :)


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1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#29 Moist Lightning

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 11:52 AM

OK, thanks...I was wondering what was going on!

 

Thanks for sharing your findings. I will be doing this soon. I was going to use the goforits with TJ TREs, but with my truck being as low as it is, I don't want the center link to hit the ground before the bolt-in cross member. This gives me another option. 

I looked into this but couldn't find a m14 female, reverse threaded, tj tre to use. Did you already find the TRE's to do this?

 

I found a TRE with a regular thread but it would only fix one side:(

 

Would love the part # is you did find em.



#30 2wheel-lee

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 02:23 PM

I haven't begun my research yet, but the first place I'll start is studying this page from Moog. Note that you can sort by certain attributes, but it still requires visually scanning down the page. Though it may not be needed, if you find one you like, you can click on the part number to see the application. 

 

http://www.moog-susp...ie_rod_ends.asp

 

These are the "universal" TREs, and the list doesn't always include ones that are model specific. So to verify the specs of a specific model TRE, I'll go to rockauto, then get the spec I need and come back here and match what I need with other features (such as for female threads). Basically I cross-reference specs in multiple locations, but the Moog site is part of my base research. 

 

The one thing I don't like is that it's not easy to find the length of the taper. Knowing small and large is good, but I also want to see length. 



#31 Moist Lightning

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Posted 26 June 2017 - 03:12 PM

I haven't begun my research yet, but the first place I'll start is studying this page from Moog. Note that you can sort by certain attributes, but it still requires visually scanning down the page. Though it may not be needed, if you find one you like, you can click on the part number to see the application. 

 

http://www.moog-susp...ie_rod_ends.asp

 

These are the "universal" TREs, and the list doesn't always include ones that are model specific. So to verify the specs of a specific model TRE, I'll go to rockauto, then get the spec I need and come back here and match what I need with other features (such as for female threads). Basically I cross-reference specs in multiple locations, but the Moog site is part of my base research. 

 

The one thing I don't like is that it's not easy to find the length of the taper. Knowing small and large is good, but I also want to see length. 

 

 

Damn I did that already hahaha. used orileys to look at ones that moog no longer produce too. Maybe you'll find something I missed.

Post back if you do please:)



#32 Charlie69

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 07:02 AM

Has any one thought to ask Mike Klotz if he would be willing to design and produce the tapered insert to the secifications needed to do the flip easily and most of all safely.

 

This is great information and I suggest making this thread a sticky so it does not end up in the bowels of Ratsun.



#33 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 29 June 2017 - 07:37 AM

Not sure if it would be worth Mikes effort, when there are other solutions available. 

 

I am keeping my eyes out for and truck and a car oil pan and pickup tubes. I want to try to develop an inexpensive rear sump pan to eliminate the need to flip the center link. 


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**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#34 Moist Lightning

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Posted 26 July 2017 - 01:08 PM

Has been installed with 11/16 bit. I am quite happy with the results. Unfortunately I lost some pics due to a syncing error but should have enough still.

 

Album Link: http://imgur.com/a/rcJW9

 

lH42qlP.jpg

 

lxZlb2v.jpg

 

EDX0nvV.jpg

 

Before installing both sides, I first installed one end and tested the range of movement - Was more than pleased with results.

 

Bonus:

 

I will post a few extra things if found that weren't mentioned in any other KA swaps too

 

First thing is these fused relays (alternative to Can/Am box)

 

MPfF9LQ.jpg

 

Have a few more things to add but don't have pic's or install done.

 

Edit: 

 

I installed on l16 rubber mounts and un-altered KA mounts.

 

 

l20b mounts: Roughly 1.9"

L16 mounts: Roughly 1.5"

 

​Still needed to hammer the edge of the firewall up a tiny bit but didn't need to cut it off.

 

Transmission has 4 degrees of tilt with this mounting setup.

 

Adjustable outer's in the pic are from a early AWD 720. Later models will not work. 



#35 Moist Lightning

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Posted 25 September 2017 - 11:07 AM

Thought I would add a quick update as I think I completed this swap on a record low budget - total cost 1140$ CAD

 

Engine + trans +  harness + driveshaft = 400$

New clutch and other parts for engine = 300$

Engine hoist = 200$

Other parts used in install (mostly fuel system, electrical and intake) = 600$

Money made from l20b partout = 360$

 

Total = 1140$

 

I have an excel with all my transaction and exact dollar amounts although numbers above are rounded.

 

Additionally, since I haven't seen it mentioned my driveshaft uses the front half of the 240sx and the rear of a 620 shaft. Arguably needs 1" spacer although those who use a 620 shaft are already losing .6" in spline engagement.



#36 GERMS

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Posted 26 October 2017 - 12:39 AM

What bit did you use with the dremel to to open up the insert?



#37 Moist Lightning

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Posted 26 October 2017 - 07:11 AM

What bit did you use with the dremel to to open up the insert?

Cutoff disc. There are 2 kinds, you need the reinforced type for metal. 



#38 Trod8812

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Posted 04 November 2017 - 10:34 PM

Does anyone know about a bolt on kit to make a 620 into a 4x4, this link says that there was no stock 4x4 620 but there was a low manufacturing bolt on kit to make it a 4x4? Anyone know anything about it?


http://www.fourwheel...spotters-guide/

#39 ]2eDeYe

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Posted 05 November 2017 - 08:19 AM

No bolt on kit that I know of. Even if Low made one, you would be hard pressed to find one these days.


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**DATSUN FAQ** ~ If ya know it, post it ~ If ya don't know it, learn it ~

ratsun.net rising sun stickers                     ratsun business cards order thread

620 KA24 Motor Mount Swap Brackets

1977 620 KingCab Deluxe KA24DE Swap - Refresh and cleanup
1978 620 kingcab 4x4 - KA24E SAS w/Dana 44 front and Toyota rear

1967 RL411 Station Wagon

 

Whenever I think that I'm out of my mind for putting this much time and money into an old Datsun, all I have to do is look some of your threads to know that I'm not nearly as whack as you are.

You're going to skin a few knuckles, stand up too fast and bump your head, hunt around the floor for the nuts and bolts you dropped, invent a few new cuss words and when you're finished you'll say "That wasn't so hard after all!"


#40 RJRACIN240

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Posted 13 November 2017 - 06:14 PM

Where did you get the replacement grease boots, they look good