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Building a 620 trailer


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Ok, I'm building a trailer from a 620 frame and bed. I'm removing as much useless weight as possible.

My question is can I cut the rear axles off and remove the center diff?

I have already done this and am now noticing some slop or play at the wheel bearing.

I'm afraid my plan has failed. :-/

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The H190 rear axle only has one bearing on each side, so it needs the center diff to stabilize the axles, if you have cut the axles to remove weight then it is over with, you now need new axles and need to re-install the center diff or buy a trailer axle and install that.

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first, you don't want to use a factory rear end if your making a trailer. If you do, when you get up to a certain speed, the trailer will start walking on you. What I mean by walking is when your cruising down the road and your trailer starts to sway to the left then to the right, back and forth, this is called walking. This can end up having the trailer on it's top or causing some serious problems, like kill your self or even worse, someone else. Scrap the rear end, you don't need it. Keep the leafs. 

What you need to do is either make your own axle housing out of square or rectangle steel and purchase the hubs from a company that sells them. If you can locate a boat supply store near you, they should be able to help you.

In Spokane Wa is a place called sixrobblees is where my friend gets his supplies from. If you don't have one near you, sixrobblees will ship.

Here's the link V

http://www.sixrobblees.com/brands/view.aspx?t=3

 

also keep in mind if you want to lower the trailer, this is very doable and the time to do it. I'll try and get a pic of an axle set up that I got in the back yard to give you an idea what I mean. 

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Just curious as to why an axle with a differential would be such a killer when the factory geometry is probably far more accurate that someone bodging something together in the back yard can achieve.  I've got a 620 trailer with the stock rear end and haven't noticed any problems.  Hell, there have been pickup bed trailers since about the second year that pickups existed, and there are hundreds of them running the roads every day.  Seems like if this was an issue we'd be seeing balled up rigs all over.  Since the axle is nearly centered, they are easy to load tail heavy, and an insufficient (or negative) tongue weight is a recipe for a very bad day indeed.

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"Walking" is caused by car tires as opposed to bias ply trailer tires, not the axle.   You don't want a "soft ride" on your trailer - just the opposite.  For $169 or less, you can buy a trailer axle and bolt it in place of the H190.  Then sell your diff.  

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/carry-on-trailer-idler-axle-3-500-lb-capacity-58-in-track-length?cm_vc=-10005

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pic's as promised. This axle was made back in the late 80's not sure why they didn't use square or rectangle iron. It is what it is.  

trailer%20axle%20tires%20sell%20004.jpg

C channel iron was used with flat plate welded to the opening of the C channel. 

trailer%20axle%20tires%20sell%20001.jpg

trailer%20axle%20tires%20sell%20002.jpg

this hub is a 5 bolt lug ( Ford / Dodge ) but should be available in a 6 lug to match the Datsun trk's. 

trailer%20axle%20tires%20sell%20003.jpg

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Wouldn't take much to end up with toe or camber (now that would walk for sure) if not welded straight. H-190 would carry more weight and be stronger not to mention perfectly aligned, have shocks for dampening and tail lights license mount and wiring

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When I built mine back in the 90s, I used the 620 rear end without any issues. I think one of the issues with a trailer walking might be speed. I see people all the time pulling those short uhaul box trailers and the thing is swaying back and forth. It clearly says 55 mph on the trailer and they pass me doing 70 mph. I could be wrong, but speed may factor in...

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