margaritaville Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Ok, I'm building a trailer from a 620 frame and bed. I'm removing as much useless weight as possible. My question is can I cut the rear axles off and remove the center diff? I have already done this and am now noticing some slop or play at the wheel bearing. I'm afraid my plan has failed. :-/ 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 The H190 rear axle only has one bearing on each side, so it needs the center diff to stabilize the axles, if you have cut the axles to remove weight then it is over with, you now need new axles and need to re-install the center diff or buy a trailer axle and install that. 4 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 It would have been better to research before trashing the rear end. I would change your location to one that people recognize so if some one is local to you they might be able to help you out. 1 Quote Link to comment
margaritaville Posted June 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Thanks for the input! I was afraid that would. E the answer. :-/ I have plenty of spare parts, so it's not to big of a problem. I'll have to check on my location. Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Well that was a waste of a h190 1 Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 first, you don't want to use a factory rear end if your making a trailer. If you do, when you get up to a certain speed, the trailer will start walking on you. What I mean by walking is when your cruising down the road and your trailer starts to sway to the left then to the right, back and forth, this is called walking. This can end up having the trailer on it's top or causing some serious problems, like kill your self or even worse, someone else. Scrap the rear end, you don't need it. Keep the leafs. What you need to do is either make your own axle housing out of square or rectangle steel and purchase the hubs from a company that sells them. If you can locate a boat supply store near you, they should be able to help you. In Spokane Wa is a place called sixrobblees is where my friend gets his supplies from. If you don't have one near you, sixrobblees will ship. Here's the link V http://www.sixrobblees.com/brands/view.aspx?t=3 also keep in mind if you want to lower the trailer, this is very doable and the time to do it. I'll try and get a pic of an axle set up that I got in the back yard to give you an idea what I mean. 2 Quote Link to comment
flyerdan Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Just curious as to why an axle with a differential would be such a killer when the factory geometry is probably far more accurate that someone bodging something together in the back yard can achieve. I've got a 620 trailer with the stock rear end and haven't noticed any problems. Hell, there have been pickup bed trailers since about the second year that pickups existed, and there are hundreds of them running the roads every day. Seems like if this was an issue we'd be seeing balled up rigs all over. Since the axle is nearly centered, they are easy to load tail heavy, and an insufficient (or negative) tongue weight is a recipe for a very bad day indeed. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 I was gonna say the same thing.... just dragged a 520 bed trailer home about 300 or so miles with no issue.... everything from a 520 from where the cab should be back.... 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Might be a problem with an LSD equipped diff but can't see an open one giving any grief. All '88 and back H-190s were open except the rare Fairlady Roadster option. 1 Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 "Walking" is caused by car tires as opposed to bias ply trailer tires, not the axle. You don't want a "soft ride" on your trailer - just the opposite. For $169 or less, you can buy a trailer axle and bolt it in place of the H190. Then sell your diff. https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/carry-on-trailer-idler-axle-3-500-lb-capacity-58-in-track-length?cm_vc=-10005 Quote Link to comment
420n620 Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 pic's as promised. This axle was made back in the late 80's not sure why they didn't use square or rectangle iron. It is what it is. C channel iron was used with flat plate welded to the opening of the C channel. this hub is a 5 bolt lug ( Ford / Dodge ) but should be available in a 6 lug to match the Datsun trk's. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 Wouldn't take much to end up with toe or camber (now that would walk for sure) if not welded straight. H-190 would carry more weight and be stronger not to mention perfectly aligned, have shocks for dampening and tail lights license mount and wiring Quote Link to comment
Jersey Posted June 7, 2017 Report Share Posted June 7, 2017 When I built mine back in the 90s, I used the 620 rear end without any issues. I think one of the issues with a trailer walking might be speed. I see people all the time pulling those short uhaul box trailers and the thing is swaying back and forth. It clearly says 55 mph on the trailer and they pass me doing 70 mph. I could be wrong, but speed may factor in... 1 Quote Link to comment
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