Floor frenched MOUNTS std cab

[sebpv]

Is there a gentleman with a clean authentic floor able to take measurements for me? I need anything you can give in order to replicate them. Depth, flat bottom diam, outer edge diam. Hole size. Front and rear. Perhaps also distance from door edge.I will be punching mine in wooden dies and show my results if it works. Thanks!

 

EDIT: I only need the center portion as its the only part destroyed by rust.

[sebpv]

Anyone willing to take measurements for me? Most importantly right now is to confirm the depth of the recesses in the rear. Thx!

[distributorguy]

You assume there's one left without the floors having been repaired... B)

[2wheel-lee]

Some of us in California have floors that almost look like they did when they rolled off the showroom floor. ;) 

 

But I have no idea what dimensions he's asking for. A drawing or pictures of the area to be measured would be useful. 

[Farmer]

Maybe some pic of the area needed

[sebpv]

My flickr isnt cooperating but look where the cab bolts to the frame. 4 corners, 2 fronts and 2 rears. I just need the recessed portion where the bolt goes.

Think about what you nees to replicate that:

diam of hole

diam of recess at the top

diam of recess at the bottom

depth of recess from bottom to top

 

the fronts and rears arent the same so i need double that

 

EDIT: Tumblr is much easier :)

[sebpv]

(A special thx to Farmer for this picture)

I need to redo all 4 of them

[distributorguy]

Are you mounting aftermarket seats?  If so, you're working too hard and making the project difficult.  Try to make the floor flatter, so mounting seat rails will be easier.  

 

If you're building a 100% original show truck, disregard the statement above.  

[sebpv]

Ill disregard then...

[sebpv]

No one has a unmolested floor?

[Farmer]

I do, actually 3. I was looking for my pattern maker tool yesterday. You know, the one I just bought. I placed it where I wouldn't forget.

[wayno]

You don't want to lose it, ya have to put it someplace safe where you will have it when you need it. :LOL:

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

What exactly are you trying to do? It sounds like you want to recreate the original floor? And you don't have anything to go by? You floor is completely trashed?

 

If there's anything left, you ought to have something to go by. I repair rust damaged sheetmetal all the time, and sometimes you just need a few important measurements and a healthy imagination. Even if it's not 100% correct, nobody will know the difference.

[sebpv]

Catch my drift? I need to do exactly what i described previously. The problem is I have no survivor to copy from so Im desperately asking for help here

[thisismatt]

I understand your question...can't help, though

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Ok, I see a big hole.

 

The description of what you are doing wasn't very clear, that's why I asked. Do you not have the old pieces that you cut out?

 

If that job were here in my shop, I would put the cab back on the frame and get the hole located, then make a piece with an approximate depth, which you should be able to do based on the pics provided, and mock it up. If it works, then you've saved time. If it doesn't, then you're no worse off then you are now.

 

I am not positive, but I think that area may be double layered for strength,

[sebpv]

There is a L shaped stamped plate that Im also gonna replicate that goes underneath the floor on all corners. But right now Im focusing on the recesses where the bolt goes. A friend made a die to press the sheet metal for the rear mount but he only gets .5 cm depth. I was given .5 inch. So I just want someone to confirm. But getting all the measurements for the front recess would also be nice

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I've done similar pressing of sheetmetal using a large bearing cup as the receiving piece and a smaller round of aluminum with the corners rounded off. You can press them together in a standard press and then drill the center after the shape is formed. If you drill the hole first, it may splay out from the drilled hole as it is being pressed.

[sebpv]

Guys Im not trying to get the "how to". I just need numbers. I want as close to the real thing as possible.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Sorry for trying to help dude. Good luck.

[sebpv]

Sorry im not trying to come out as an ass but I put up pictures and gave the description many times. Am I really that bad at describing or is it just that I shouldnt expect anything?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

You are coming out as an ass, but that's ok. Say what you will about forums and the members on them, but you were asking for help. I offered. You shut me down. Tone is hard to interpret in print, but I'll assume that you were not happy with my response.

 

You didn't describe the job at all. You just gave a list of measurements that you wanted and nobody seemed to have what you needed. I was trying to help you get the job done without those measurements.

 

I'll just bow out and let someone else try to help you.

[distributorguy]

It appears as though you want someone else to do all the work for you after you threw away all the parts you want to copy, so shame on you.  The recess is simply the depth of the bolt with a lock washer on it, large enough diameter to clear a socket.  Scale draw the photo you keep posting.  

[thisismatt]

Geez people. Simple question and maybe his were completely rotted out. He asked for numbers, not Fab help

[datzenmike]

The hole is whatever bolt you plan to use. As mentioned, make the depression wide enough for a large washer and deep enough so the bolt head is level or below the floor. I wouldn't get too carried away with exactness it's going to be covered with sound deadner and carpet. Good enough is... good enough. No offense if you are OCD but the hole/dimple location is way more critical than it's shape.