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car wont shut off


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#1 Pabloairmale

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 11:38 AM

After i wired in the matchbox dist car will start but wont shut off. i have an aftermarket ignition switch, any ideas on where to start?



#2 willz

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 01:25 PM

Sounds like you may have some wires touching, you're aftermarket ignition switch may be bad or possibly wired your dizzy incorrectly?

#3 datzenmike

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 04:20 PM

I can't see any way to wire the dizzy wrong. The only two wires with power are switched off by the ignition.
 
How did you shut off the points dizzy???????
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#4 Pabloairmale

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 06:55 PM

its a bad ignition switch, i jumped the acc to the start side and i can shut her down in the off position. but if i jump straight to acc it will stay on. i think i can live with that.



#5 willz

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Posted 25 May 2017 - 06:58 PM

Makes sense. I couldn't image it really being anythjng other than that. Should probably invest in a good ignition switch

#6 Doctor510

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Posted 26 May 2017 - 04:36 AM

If your ballast resistor is still there remove it,  Hook up the black/white wire and the Black/green or black blue wire to the + post of the coil along with the positive wire from the dist (leg of the "T" connection on the match box)  neg (-) from the dist is the top of the and it looks like the minus sign



#7 Doctor510

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Posted 26 May 2017 - 07:31 AM

On the after market switch, put the black/white wire and the green/black or the blue/black to the IGN post on the switch  you should have only ONE wire to the start post.



#8 Humboldt

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 08:11 PM

I have the same problem with my 72 goon with a matchbox from an 80 720. It's probably not the ignition switch because I swapped it out with the 80 720 ignition and the problem persisted. I installed an on off switch between Black/Blue and Black/White12 volt + power and coil + as a means for shutting it down. 

 

I have the positive from the coil going to the "B" on the Dizzy and the ground to "C". The Dime Quarterly article and everyone else says do it this way The DQ picture shows the opposite - B to negative coil).

I hooked up only the Black Green to positive as an experiment. @$@$@^% still wouldn't shut off. Bombed the key switch with electrical pot cleaner . Nuthin'. Weird.

I guess it's better than it doesn't want to run.

Maybe both ignition key switches are fried.
Did you ever figure out your similar problem?



#9 wayno

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Posted 16 July 2017 - 08:35 PM

I have the same problem with my 72 goon with a matchbox from an 80 720. It's probably not the ignition switch because I swapped it out with the 80 720 ignition and the problem persisted. I installed an on off switch between Black/Blue and Black/White12 volt + power and coil + as a means for shutting it down. 

 

I have the positive from the coil going to the "B" on the Dizzy and the ground to "C". The Dime Quarterly article and everyone else says do it this way The DQ picture shows the opposite - B to negative coil).

I hooked up only the Black Green to positive as an experiment. @$@$@^% still wouldn't shut off. Bombed the key switch with electrical pot cleaner . Nuthin'. Weird.

I guess it's better than it doesn't want to run.

Maybe both ignition key switches are fried.
Did you ever figure out your similar problem?

 

You likely have a wire that was added in to power something else like a radio, aftermarket gauges, ect; and it bypassed the ignition, all you can really do is start it up, turn the key off, leave the off/on switch on and start pulling fuses till it dies, if it don't die, then you will have to start disconnecting the wires that were added till it dies, if that don't do it then maybe you converted over to a different alternator and it is wired wrong.


 

 

 


#10 datzenmike

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 04:52 AM

Generally people complain of this problem when putting a later internally regulated alternator into a vehicle that has not been converted and still has the external regulator in place.


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#11 Humboldt

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 09:37 AM

I don't think the PO switched out the Alternator because the Voltage Regulator is still there.



#12 datzenmike

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 10:59 AM

Yes, IF.... IF your external alternator was replaced, maybe with an internal one, instead of the correct one. It's known that if you use an internally regulated alternator on a vehicle with an external voltage regulator....it continues to run with the key off. Just saying it's a possible answer.


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#13 Humboldt

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 05:56 PM

I switched connection to another alternator without unbolting and removing the one thats in there to test if the problem went away. It did. Now I will swap alternators. If the problem comes back, when the newly swapped Alternator starts kicking voltage out I will be chagrinned, but right now I am optomistic. Thanks for the tips!



#14 wayno

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 06:07 PM

Keep in mind that if the alternator you switched to was not turning creating voltage, then when you turned off the key there was no power to keep the engine running since the alternator was not turning that you had hooked up.

I would take the belt off and start the engine up with the alt you have already then turn the key off, if it dies then you have found the issue(the alt), if it continues to run then the alt is not the issue.

 

I think I said that correctly above.


 

 

 


#15 Humboldt

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Posted 17 July 2017 - 07:35 PM

Good point--about the alternator providing the juice to keep it running. When the engine wouldn't stop I yanked battery cables, to no avail-- it kept running. Doing the inverse (disconnect alternator belt) is a good logical next step test I hadn't thought of. If battery power keeps it running then it's a wiring screw up. Thanks!



#16 Humboldt

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Posted 18 July 2017 - 06:34 PM

Datzen Mike, you were right. It wasn't the previous owner it was dumb me who accidentally put the alternator from my other parts stash of '80 720 parts. I put the stock alt on and it shuts off now.  Thanks again.



#17 datzenmike

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 04:57 AM

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It happens.....


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