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L16 Ticking noise after head work


d.p

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# 1 2 3 don't matter right now long as the V notches matches the plate. 2 is OK.

 

If that crank is set to 0 on  then that distributor spindal is OFF at Top Dead Center

 

at crank zero when you lock the dist rotor down the rotor should be right on the #1 plug wire where it points. Since its timming is off and that's why hard to crank as it fighting it.

 

 

watch my vid again again again . if you make a straight line, the line will be on the right side of the top hole and bottom left  AS YOU LOOK AT THE SPNDAL(LIKE SREWDRVER END) on the dist mount holes.

 

TELL THEM YOU WANT YOU  ONEY BACK AND BUY THE TRUCK FOR RUINING IT

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.how did the tensioner pop out in the first place?

  

Has anyone on here thought about how long the engine was run without the timing chain tensioner in placed.

No idea how mine popped out, but it was in the pan, with both halves of the spring.

Both guides were worn through and 1 was broken.

Not as noisy as you'd think...

Blown HG was what took it off the road.

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Yeah well mine was the reverse, I replaced the HG and popped the tensioner in the process.  

 

I haven't paid them anything yet so nothing to get back except for my truck.    

 

Anyways the cam timing was off this morning and a different tech was working on the truck when I showed.  He already got the cam timing back inline before I showed up.  He was able to get it to idle but it would backfire out the exhaust so I had him check the oil spindle/dizzy (he was running out of adjustments on the dizzy) but I ran out of time.  I sent thim the pic Mike and Crash had of how the spindle lines up and he was able to get it right from that. They got it to idle at 700 rpm with *15 of timing but were waiting for owner to show up so he could reverse the carb adjustments he made to drop it down to 600 rpm and 12*.  

 

I can only assume they screwed up the cam timing, had the oil spindle wrong, jumped a couple teeth  or all of the above and were troubleshooting all of the problems they introduced.    At this point I just want it done and running but it looks like I am getting closer to that..although they still got to fix the oil leak from the TC (crash thinks it maybe from dizzy pedestal)?  

 

Is there supposed to be oil here:

 

34727470030_e8f6f81f56.jpg

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Um...did they find d the locating pin they said was missing from the cover?

 

No not yet, they haven't pulled it off yet and honestly no idea if it really was missing.  They going to pull it and I will have them verify its there and if not replace it.   

 

Crash helped me with the pin locations but still not clear on exactly where they are for the TC, you know? Or have a pic? I think crash said they were 5mm?

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No not yet, they haven't pulled it off yet and honestly no idea if it really was missing.  They going to pull it and I will have them verify its there and if not replace it.   

 

Crash helped me with the pin locations but still not clear on exactly where they are for the TC, you know? Or have a pic? I think crash said they were 5mm?

 

I have a long block sitting in my garage at home. I also have a micrometer. They are not 5mm.

 

I'll take pics for you and measure the pins when I get off work.

 

Their purpose is to keep the timing cover centered for the oil pump/dizzy spindle.

Some member here had a rough time diagnosing a fitment issue? Maybe a driveability concern. Any ways, upon tear down, he saw they were missing-causing his cover to be crooked-drive spindle crooked.

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Not sure if you have ever seen this...

 

 

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/pickup-1965-1972

 

 

Fixing cars isn't about knowledge, it's about knowing how to find the knowledge.

 

 

Fucking A that helps but still not sure what part I am looking at cause I never seen the backside of a timing cover or the block behind it.  

 

6 and 9?  

 

520_001A_01.jpg

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If they pull timing cover again for new gasket. Theyll have to remove oil pump and reinstall it. Having to properly index spindle. They need to take pic of Rotor and spindle position before to compare to after. Take couple attempts. 

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If they pull timing cover again for new gasket. Theyll have to remove oil pump and reinstall it. Having to properly index spindle. They need to take pic of Rotor and spindle position before to compare to after. Take couple attempts. 

 

They are going to have to pull it so I ordered dowels/locator, a new TC gasket and told them to not pull the TC until they have those parts on hand.  The spindle and rotor clocking were one of the problems they introduced so they are very aware of how it needs to go back together now.  

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Not to beat a dead horse, but the absence of dowels is a good indicator that this engine has a murky history. Who's to say that the timing pointer and crank pulley were correct when the last person put it back together?

 

That may also be the reason the shop had the timing set at 46 degrees to get it to run right.

 

Verify TDC.

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Yo man, it was at 46 because they had the oil spindle/dizzy clocked wrong.  Once they got it right they were able to get it down close to OEM.  

 

And I verified TDC before all of this anyway so we are good there.    Also had the shop verify it as well yesterday.  

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