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L16 Ticking noise after head work


d.p

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I like permeated copper, its like make q gasket. My tstat housing was leaking and cleaned it, sanded it down and installed gasket, still leaked. Tried permatex copper and waited for a bit to dry some and leak stopped.

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Truck still at the shop.  

 

They got it put back together but it was running rough so the think the timing was retarded so they going to try and advance it.  

 

Been there for nearly two weeks.   :(

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D.p., do you have a manual, if not get one, go on this forum and search manuals, tons of them. Save ur money and learn to at least tune up ur car. You will feel better about urself and importantly save money. If you want step by step, YouTube, and look for datsun. If you don't have tools buy them, don't need to be top of the line, like snap on. Get craftsman. Regarding, timing light, dwell and meters, u can find them at garage sales or Craigslist or offer up. Good luck.

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They have treated me right in the past.

 

But they never worked on an L16 so its as much a learning process for them as it was for me.   Difference between them and I is that its their job and I am just a shade tree so I would hope they could figure it out.   

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They have treated me right in the past.

 

But they never worked on an L16 so its as much a learning process for them as it was for me.   Difference between them and I is that its their job and I am just a shade tree so I would hope they could figure it out.

 

 

This would scare me. They are removing the cover, I assume. What if they miss the single bolt behind the oil pump? Cracking your impossible to find on the east coast timing cover.

 

That's an expensive lesson to learn.

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Some times it's a necessary evil... only thing you can hope for is you have a good shop to take it...

I've had many times I wish I had the extra money instead of doing it myself.... in the end doing it your self is more satisfying but can drive you crazy....

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Welp not so sure now.  

 

1. Truck running like crap they don't know why

2. Carb is missing a adjuster screw but don't know how or why (they plugged it with a rubber hose)

3. Air screw was turned totally out and they think that was the only way they PO could get it running before

4. Not familiar with stock Hitachi or the distributor so not clear on adjusting either (I gave them the Haynes manual)  

5.Timing cover is leaking because "there was only one dowel" and the gasket slipped (it wasn't leaking before so I would tend to believe there was a dowel there before all of this otherwise it would have leaked prior)

 

Frustrated now because it seems like the tensioner popping out did one of two things, exposed some other problems with the truck or exposed the shops ability to troubleshoot all of this.  At a loss because the truck ran great before I dropped it off there (just noisy).

 

:(

 

34925389901_3625611713.jpg

 

Some google pic:

 

34669943340_41a6b97365.jpg

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Well if a collector car owner you really should learn all you can about maintaining and fixing them. At the least know what or where the problem lies. Your mechanic(that you paid 3-4 times what you make for one of his hours to learn about your car)  can't help you from a hundred miles away or 10 at night. These cars were made to be understood and fixed by their owners if they chose. Very unlike todays cars and mindsets.

 

So might as well start ASAP and stop paying for the mechanics lifestyle.

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DP..remember when someone asked why you paying someone to do what you can probably do and you said, " because I can"...well lesson learned. The vast majority of shops today do not know 70s technology, they don't know how to listen to an engine and tune by ear, the need a fricken obd reader to determine what's wrong. As I said, before and others try to do it yourself and get a manual.

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Educated idiots, if they need a computer to tell them what is wrong/what to do then they have no business working on cars for a living.

The only Datsun I ever had to tow home was the 521 work truck when it had one of them piece of shit Dogleg 5 speeds in it and it locked up solid, otherwise I have fixed them on the road with the tools I have available, and so far I have made it home or at least to within a couple miles of home before walking the rest of the way to get the parts I needed(fuel pump), there was a hill I could not get up by removing the valve cover and pumping the fuel pump with a large screwdriver to fill up the SU bowls, there just wasn't enough fuel in the SU bowls to get the truck/trailer up that hill, after I made it home I realized that I might have been able to drive it home if I had removed the plastic spacer between the fuel pump and head, but maybe not.

If you remove the front cover again, go to the hardware store and find a dowel that will fit in the cover hole and cut it to length, then you are good to go.

It's really simple, crank at TDC, cam lobes at 10am/2pm, rotor pointed at number one plug wire, and it doesn't matter where it is pointed as long as that wire goes to number one plug, then counter clockwise 1, 3, 4, 2, if it has spark and fuel it should run unless the shop screwed it up as it ran before, oh and the valves need to be adjusted correctly.

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