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dross93ranger's 1983 Project Datsun 720


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This is going to be a simple project, lowered, air shocks, weber carb.  Basically making a good driving 720 that I can use to haul mulch and flowers when needed.  I won't be starting this build for atleast a month if not 2, but figured I would make a page for it.  I am open to suggestions as I need this truck to be extremely reliable, I work 30 minutes from home and will commute in it often.  It has around 140k and a z22/manual, I would have to look to get the exact mileage.

 

Needs:
Fix turn signals (Flashers work, turn signals do not, guessing it is in the switch)

Lower 4" (Torsion bars and Block)

Install Air Shocks

New tires (current have great tread and horrible dry rot)

Weber Carburetor and fuel regulator

New serpentine belt (Old is dry rotted)

New seats ( reading Dodge Neon is a direct bolt in - currently has van seats of some type that sit way too high)

New air filter (current one is nasty)

Tune-Up (Spark plugs, wires, oil change, anything else I should do?)

Replace a couple broken wheel studs

Install radio and speakers

install new tailgate handle (purchased)

 

Here is the truck:

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok first things first...the Datsun will be transferred and tagged this week.

 

First rule of business is a brand new Redline Weber K 662 Carburetor Kit.  So my question is...what does everyone run for their fuel regulator (part number or link would be great) or is a fuel regulator even necessary on these trucks.  I haven't measured the fuel pressure yet.  Weber says they need between 2.5-3 lb

 

Tires will be next after it is running perfect and then the fun can begin.

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No pressure regulated needed if you use existing steel "Y" pipe that returns unused fuel to the tank.

 

I had to bend mine a little to get a short piece of rubber fuel line not to kink.

 

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This is how some people connect fuel line.  I used a small philips screw driver to bend the steel fuel line a little.

 

Weber%20kinked%20fuel%20line.jpg

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Ok so not much progress, but atleast that ugly primer is gone from the front end! I spend 3 hours with a scotchbrite pad and purple power and came out looking a lot better, cowl is the only part not done yet.  Also my Weber gets ordered tomorrow when I wake up, and I started looking over the old carburetor just to ready myself for the installation and noticed that I have a mechanical fuel pump and not electric after all. Does anyone know what pressure the mechanical puts out?  I have a holley fuel regulator I can throw on if its a good precaution, but it looks to have a return line.

 

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I purchase all my Webers and parts through Pierce Manifolds.  Been doing business with them for over 3 decades.

 

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/

 

Call them if you have a Z24 and they can get you lined out with the correct kit.  Not shone on there webpage.

 

It's a Z22, I will be ordering off of Amazon.  It is a real Redline, not the Chinese crappy one.

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Tagged it and threw on the Weber, she runs great!  I pulled back the vinyl flooring as well and found rust holes near the wheel wells and front cab mounts are rusted out.  I will replace the steel this winter the correct way, but for summer I bought some 22 gauge steel and will rivet it down to make a temporary floor and cover it back up with the vinyl until then.

 

The only issue I am having now is my brake/daytime running lights on my driver side taillight do not work even after new bulbs.  Hazards work, but turn signals do not.  I will be trying to figure out those issues on Monday.

 

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Mess with the hazard switch on the column. These switches function by disconnecting the taillights completely to engage the hazards. There is often a sweet spot the switch has to be in or lights won't function. Try carefully moving the switch back and forth until you find that sweet spot.

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