Fart wagon? KC Build.

[Brandon.fair]

Ok so I checked my starter. I took off that little wire and checked it with a multimeter and it showed 12.1v. I checked the battery after that and it showed 12.4v. I did how ever find some loose wires at the positive battery terminal not sure if thats the cause.

 

 

Also found this feat of electrical engineering can someone tell me what this wire(s) do? It looks to be the black wire.

 

 

 

 

 

[Brandon.fair]

When you hit the key and it does nothing, watch your volt meter. Often if the starter solenoid is failing, you will see the voltage drop while you have the key in "start". If the voltage doesn't dip or change, it's likely not triggering anything, meaning connections could be your problem. I've had to clean corrosion off starter terminals before to make them work.

The voltage does dip when I trun the key and it just clicks once. I found the negative starter solenoid wire is looking rough while looking down there today. What do you guys think? It's hard to get my camera back there so sorry in advance for the bad angle.

 

[Lockleaf]

No wire on the starter is "negative". The starter negative, or ground, is the body of the starter. It grounds to the engine, engine is grounded to chassis and finally to the negative terminal on the battery

 

You have two wires going in.

 

The big one is power supply straight from the battery. This one always has full power.

 

The small one is often called the signal or trigger wire. When you turn the key, power goes through the little wire and activates the starter solenoid which is just a large relay.

 

Yes the corrosion on the signal wire connection could definitely be the source of your issue. Sandpaper could clean that up.

[Brandon.fair]

Thanks I'll give it a go.

 

Sorry for the improper usage of the term negative. But in my line of work we refer the the terminal with the most negative potential as negative. Yes "Ground" is more a appropriate term. Hence from here on out, on this forum I shall refer to it as ground. 

 

Thanks for all the help everybody. I'm gonna be needing more to get this puppy running smoothly. 

[Brandon.fair]

So here is the the start of my build thread.

The Plan:

1. Get truck running reliably.

2. Fix all the things the last owner(s) did half ass-ed

3. Make it look pretty.

4. SLAM IT

 

So I bought this truck May 17th 2017 because I need a vehicle to go to and from work. My wife is moving in advance of me to start a new job and she is taking the car so I had to get anot her. It has +222000 miles and alot of "modifications". I'm in the process of getting it running reliably, it runs but sometimes it runs fine and other time it wants to stall at idle and other time it just clicks once when I try to start it. Battery is charged and is being charged by alternator.

 

I even been playing around with some nicknames for the truck. First The Fart Wagon because it has a fart can exhaust. Next The Blue Butt hole because it looks like s**t right now lol. Finally The Baby Maker because of all the tail I could pull with this thing (I'm married so I won't pull any haha)

 

What do you guys think?

 

 

No I didn't pay $1500.

 

 

Update May 21 2017;

removed the shot power steering system.

removed dry rotted window washer reservoir.

removed some of the broken a/c system.

Repaired 6 wire connector on back of carb.

Replaced vacuum hose from distributor to carb for timing advance.

 

So I decided that I want to delete the broken power steering and a/c system to clean up the engine bay. A/C system had alot of the lines cut and the interior A/C controls were missing when I bought it. Power steering had busted lines also so I removed it. I'm keeping the pump and bracket encase I want to re-install it someday (but probably not)

 

Noticed the carb viewing window is full so I'll Crack that open soon and fit it. Still need to replace/delete some of the vacuum lines. 

 

[]2eDeYe]

Looks like a pretty decent truck. A little cleanup and maintenance will go a long ways.

 

The starter clicking could be the solenoid going out or a loose wire connection. Check all the wires going to the starter. 

[Brandon.fair]

So I was replacing the vac lines from the distributor to the carb and found it was cut and capped. 

Can someone please inform me of where it connects to after the hard lines?

[captain720]

Are you rocking a Weber?

[Brandon.fair]

Nope. Stock

[Charlie69]

Clean truck nice score.  Does this have electric windows and door locks?  That is a ST (Sport Truck) model.

[Brandon.fair]

Clean truck nice score.  Does this have electric windows and door locks?  That is a ST (Sport Truck) model.

 

Thanks it does have power windows and locks. To my surprise they still work.

[Brandon.fair]

Does anybody know what vac line "C" does in the picture.(the end of line "C") mine is broken off and covered in sealant. 

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

This is the thermal vacuum valve TVV... 'C' goes to the air filter and allows filtered air in to remove the vacuum signal on the vacuum advance and the EGR hoses just below it. Once the coolant warms up the vacuum bleeds close and full ported vacuum can then pass to the distributor and the EGR. In this way there is no vacuum advance or EGR when the engine is cold. 

 

 

You can connect the distributor vacuum advance to the port on the carb directly and disconnect and remove the vacuum bleed.The vacuum advance port is the most forward one on the carb base. The middle and the rear one have to do with the EGR.

[Brandon.fair]

Thanks I did that and idk if it's just me but if feels more peppy. It wanted to stall today on the test drive after fixing, until it warmed up. Is this common with carbs? After it warmed up the idle seemed to fluctuate between either 1500 or like 500. It wasnt reving the dropping it was one or the other weirdly

 

Updated the first post.

[Brandon.fair]

I'll be posting all my updates and questions in my build thread in order to consolidate my thoughts.

 

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/72046-fart-wagon-kc-build/

[datzenmike]

Would you like this thread added to it? I can merge them so you have it in there.

[datzenmike]

Well you have some overlap of symptoms with this...  http://community.ratsun.net/topic/72037-new-owner-of-a-720-with-many-problems/page-2 ... These posts should be added together so it's easier to look back and see what was already suggested and what was done.

 

This is the ECC electronic controlled carburetor.

[Brandon.fair]

Sure why not

[Brandon.fair]

Are these the idle and mixture screws on the carb? I saw someone say to adjust the screws you have to adjust the idle screw to the lowest smooth idle spot then adjust the mixture screw till the engine shudders from being to rich and to lean and set it to the middle of those. Then adjust idle again and repeat. Sound right?

 

[Brandon.fair]

Ok first off I'd like to say I may have taken the hardest most moronic route possible to figure this out. With that said, I think I have figured out the issue of stalling at idle or high idling. When I first got the truck it shuddered above 3k RPM. All of a sudden it stopped that and would stall at idle. When it wasn't stalling at idle it would idle at 1500 ish RPM. I also noticed the float bowl level was somewhere north of the viewing window.

 

First thing I did was replace vacuum advance vacuum line from distributor to carb directly. 

 

Second. Opened float bowl and bent the tab on topaper of the float up to get the float level close to right.(it's about 1/16 inch above the dot in window.) When I opened the float bowl I found this. (Picture is upside down for some reason)

I cleaned it out and replaced cover. Still no dice. It would not idle unless I gave it some throttle.

 

Next thing I did was the play with the idle and mixture screws on the carb. I thought it was way to rich and was choking. I counted the turns in and wrote them down so I could return them to "default" if I messed it up more. That didn't seem to help so I just put them back to where they were. 

 

After a bunch of staring at the engine and poking things with my fingers I decided to buy some carb cleaner. I took the float Bowl cover off and inserted the stroll of the carb cleaner into the Jets and sprayed it through. After which I sprayed the chock and inside of the carb.

 

It started right up and idled really smooth. All I had to do was to lower the idle with the idle screw to about 900. It ran for about 15 minutes then I shut it off. About 30 mins later I started it up again and it idled great again. I drove it for about 10 mins and noticed the idle had gone back up to 1500. I'm like WTF!!! 

 

Then it clicked when I was adjusting the idle I had to push it down to get it to fully make contact with the idle screw. The throttle was just sticking slighty. I sprayed some carb cleaner on it and poof like new.

 

My non professional diagnosis:

Way to much crud in float bowl must of clogged the jet used for idle. Causing engine to run off the primary jet. Causing it to run to rich at idle and stall unless more air was given to it.

 

Do the simplest fix first ladies!!! That may just be the issue.

 

But now it's back to sputtering above 3k RPM. so idk what that's about. Any ideas on that issue? It doesn't do it if under 3k if at WOT or baby pressure on gas petal but anything over it does it ...... if it ain't one thing it's another

[captain720]

Maybe the secondaries are clogged too? I would spray them out too, and consider running some start tron through. But that is my unprofessional opinion.

[Rhino13]

It'd save you a lot of trouble to find a weber 32/36. The one you have on there is probably either worn out or the choke could be broken. My stock carb worked alright but the choke arm broke so it was flapping closed randomly and making it run weird. I jammed a screw in to pinch it open and ran no choke.

[datzenmike]

Cleaning it is actually less trouble than replacing it. Not to mention the $300 for a new one. True it would certainly fix the problem. It obviously has crap in it.

 

Replace the fuel filter, now. How did that crap get past it? I've had cheap filters that came apart inside and let all the dirt into the carb before. Start with a new filter so more doesn't get in.

 

There should be a screen covering the inlet banjo fitting on the carb also. How did the crap get past it too???

[Brandon.fair]

Any recommendations for fuel filters?  

[84720FourWheel]

Don't get the cheapest one you can find. Generally you won't have an issue with the parts store filters. Nissan would be ideal.