Brandon.fair Posted June 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 So I added some tech-ron to the tank when I filled up today and on the way home I noticed that the "sputtering issue" would start at 3500 rpm. Where is previously started at 3000. So I thought it was working. But now it won't idle again. Has anyone experience this after adding fuel treatment? I'm having surgery tomorrow and my friend is taking me. But he won't be in town for a while and I'll have no way of getting around if I don't get this fixed. Any help is appreciated l. 1 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted June 1, 2017 Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 Sputtering at higher rpm under load is classic clogged fuel filter. If you can do 70 then only 65 and stumble and so on. With all the Crap in the carb when was the fuel filter by the pump last changed? 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 I tried to change it last night but couldn't get the old one off. I just bought it so I have no clue when the last time it was changed. Will a clogged fuel filter cause it not to idle? I can keep it running with throttle. 1 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted June 1, 2017 Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 Probably not your idle issue but will definitely starve your carb at higher rpm's under load "driving". That was a lot of Crap in your carb, you want to make sure it is getting clean fuel. You have an electric pump. Change the filter, disconnect the fuel line from the carb and place it in a bottle and turn ignition to on the flush the line. Check the gas for crap. You may be cleaning the carb only to be pumping crap back in. 2 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted June 1, 2017 Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 Yeah it can. If the fuel supply is being reduced then you have to give it "more" pedal to get the same amount of fuel in there. Get that fuel filter in, bottomwatcher might be on to something here. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 1, 2017 Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 Change the rubber fuel hoses at the same time you change filter. Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Changed the fuel filter and hoses. Still won't idle. It will idle if choke is closed so I'm thinking it's to lean for some reason. Float level is at the dot. I just sprayed out the Jets. Fuel filter at banjo is clean. Any ideas? Also added tech-ron complete fuel system cleaner yesterday. Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Ok any improvement at higher rpm under load "driving"? As symptoms disappear we can narrow down the last issues . If is down to the no idle. Sounds like the idle circuit may be plugged. The carb is just a series of different circuits that kick in or out depending on throttle position and vacuum. If you have an idle enrichment screw remove it and try to blast some carb cleaner through it. I haven't seen a Hitachi in forever so I am not sure how accessible that is. Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 I sprayed out the idle mixture screw and it started and idled for about 1 minute the idle got shitty and finally stalled. I also pulled out the anti-diesel solenoid and it looks like this Shouldn't it look like this? With the needle. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Sorry but you made me laugh a little... gotta luv things like that.. I've ran into a couple wtf moments too with my 521 rebuild. To me it looks like that needle might be important... any chance it's stuck inside the carb? Or is it straight up missing...? Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 I think it's missing forever But while I had the anti-diesel solenoid out I took out the idle mixture screw and shot carb cleaner through the solenoid hole out through the idle mixture screw. Some crap came out and I cleaned it up and reassembled. Now it idles fine and doesn't "studder/bog down" past 3k RPMs. I drove it for 35 mins on a mix of highway and city seemed to be back to running right but We will see how long this last. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 I prefer to find something like that, at least you found something that you can verify was wrong... Missing part and crap in the line ... it's running so that's good... i have no idea what the solenoid really does, don't have on my carb.... Probably blocks the fuel flow somehow in the carb when the engine shuts off... I'm sure some one will chime in if it should be replaced or if your good to go.. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 I don't think solenoid it the best way to describe it. It's more like an electro-magnet. When energised it overcomes the spring pressure and attracts the needle into its sleeve allowing fuEl to flow to idle mixture screw. When off the spring pushes the needle back in to carb and blocks fuel for flowing. I guess if it's broken you could remove the needle and run the engine still but you will get some diesel. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Well I drove it again and like 5 mins into the drive it stalled at a stop sign. Then again at the auto parts store. Went inside for a few mins then it drove home fine. WTF.... 1 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 You still have trash floating around in the carb. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 How's your gas tank? I had an issue where my gas filler neck was deteriorating.... every time I filled up pieces would get washed into my tank... I never saw in my fuel filter because they were bigger than the pick up tube... So they would just plug the end of the tube.... engine would stall, piece would float away engine would run again... I ended up driving with a fuel pump cutoff switch... when it would start to die I would throw it in neutral, kill the fuel pump, hit the brakes to slosh the gas, fuel pump on keep driving.... eventually replaced the filler neck tube.... This was my 521 and it would happen at random.... Does your problem also happen while driving at speed or does it seem to only happen when coming to a stop or just idling? If it's only at idle, maybe the fuel pump is on its way out, or you have an issue with your idle settings in the carb.... Does it start right back up after it stalls? 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 I drove it today a couple of time, it didn't stall once. When is does do it, it happens when I am stopped at idle or I press the clutch in and RPMs drop to idle whilst I'm stopping. Another old problem to rear it's head today was when I go to start the truck I get a single click and nothing. If I put it in gear and let off the brakes and let the truck rock back slightly, then i put the brakes back on and press the Clutch in, it will start right up. Both times today I parked on a incline idk it that has something to do with it or just coincidence. In other news: I fabricated switch panel for the truck (most the wiring harness has been destroyed by PO). Here is a before and after. Haven't put in any switches yet because I'm still deciding on layout and how may switches I'll need Before. After 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Maybe a dead spot in the starter? Are you saying that you roll started it? Check for voltage at starter and just park on hills. Good work man! Nice to see the progress you are making. I am thing that you need to just keep working the junk out of the fuel system. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 What are the two holes for on the vertical brass tube in the picture a few post up? Looks like an electronic feedback carb. That is a solenoid that is part of the primary barrel. It adjusts the fuel mixture 10 times a second with feedback from an O2 sensor. The holes let gas in presumably. I sprayed out the idle mixture screw and it started and idled for about 1 minute the idle got shitty and finally stalled. I also pulled out the anti-diesel solenoid and it looks like this Shouldn't it look like this? With the needle. Yes but it will pass gas without the needle. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Maybe a dead spot in the starter? Are you saying that you roll started it? No I didn't roll start it. I think I just turned the flywheel alittle bit. I'm thinking that the teeth on the starter are binding somehow and turning the engine alittle allows it teeth to unbind. I'm thinking about rewiring the head lights(high and low) I might do trun signals also although (strong maybe) going to put I switch for blower motor so I can have defroster for when it's raining. I try to figure out the heater For winter. Another strong Maybe is to get rid of the key ignition and do a switch start (with a hidden kill switch, these trucks are REALLY easy to hotwire) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 On the starter is a small Black/Red wire that energizes the solenoid. Make sure it's clean and snug fitting. Are the battery cables tight on the battery posts? Are the other ends on the intake (negative) and the starter (positive) clean and tight? If it does this all the time it could be a weak start signal from the ignition or the solenoid is packing it in. 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 It hasn't done it in a while. When it does if I roll the truck back a bit like a few inches, maybe a foot, it starts right up 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 Roll it in gear??? so it bumps the engine? 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2017 Yea. I put it in first, release the park break, let off the brakes pedal, and roll backwards until I feel the engine "holding" me. Then take it out of gear and start it. Ignition is off till I try to start it 1 Quote Link to comment
Brandon.fair Posted June 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2017 Do these leaf Springs look right? I feel like they are really flat and that square shackle is in different spots on each side. passenger side Driver side Quote Link to comment
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