1983 720 Z22 Weber Carb Questions

[dross93ranger]

I just picked up a 1983 720 with the Z22 motor.  It runs great once you get it warmed up, but will not stay running until it is warmed up.  I am guessing the carburetor just needs a rebuild.  Rather then do that, I would like to run a brand new weber since I had good luck with one on my Chevy Luv.  So anyways I have a couple questions:

 

Is the weber a big improvement over the factory carburetor as far as reliability goes?

 

Is this a good carburetor for this truck? I just want reliability (WK663 - 32/36 DGEV WEBER) 

 

Do I need a fuel pressure regulator? I see that it is recommended by weber to run a Holley unit that is set at 2.7 psi from factory. 

[datzenmike]

Easier/cheaper to fix the choke.

[Charlie69]

I put Webers on all my Datsuns/Nissans.  I purdhase all my wbers and parts from Pierce Manifolds.  I have put them on J13s, L16s, L18s, L20Bs, A20s, Z22s, and Z24s.  The Weber is a great improvement over the stock carb.

 

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/

[dross93ranger]

I put Webers on all my Datsuns/Nissans.  I purdhase all my wbers and parts from Pierce Manifolds.  I have put them on J13s, L16s, L18s, L20Bs, A20s, Z22s, and Z24s.  The Weber is a great improvement over the stock carb.

 

http://www.piercemanifolds.com/

Do you run a fuel pressure regulator or just add the weber?  I am really leaning this route.  The weber really helped out my Chevy Luv.

[dross93ranger]

Easier/cheaper to fix the choke.

 

I might mess with it some and see if I can get it to work properly.  I can get a rebuild kit for the Carburetor for like $12 plus shipping off of Rock Auto.

[captain720]

If you can afford the weber go for it, if not try to salvage the stock. I have a fuel pressure regulators on my 4wd and am gonna get one for the 2wd as previous owners have all thought that seven million pound fuel pumps increase performance.

 

Definitely do not buy a weber without messing with it first and trying to make it go.

 

The stock carbs will get "tired" so some people notice an epic performance increase, while others wonder why they bought it. When stuck on the road I would take a weber any day over a stock though.

 

How many miles are you rocking?

 

We need OICS!!!!!

[Charlie69]

Do you run a fuel pressure regulator or just add the weber?  I am really leaning this route.  The weber really helped out my Chevy Luv.

I have done both.  I started messing with Webers in the early 70s and have found them to be an easy and dependable carb.

 

What I found on the later L20B and the Z24 engines is there is a metered Y pipe that feeds fuel to the carb but also returns unused fuel to the tank.  I run the stock 720 electric pumps or the Facet Gold-Flo FEP60SV Electric Fuel Pump Kit Universal Petrol & Diesel Electric Fuel Cylinder Pump 12 Volt, 136 Liter/hour, 2.75 - 4 PSI.

 

The L engine fuel/vacuum line

 

 

The 720 Fuel line

 

[dross93ranger]

I can afford a Weber, but it will probably be a couple months before I purchase one and get this truck road ready.  The turn signals don't work, but the flashers do.  It needs new tires. Ect...

 

 

I drove it 20 minutes home from where I bought it with no issues, has as much power as its supposed to have, just won't idle on a cold start and idles rough once warmed up.

 

I looked at the choke yesterday and it stays open all the time.  When I push the gas it still stays open.  I can close it by hand, but it immediately falls open again.  It also doesn't look like it wants to close all of the way no matter how hard I push.

 

I will get pictures soon and will definitely get some when it is roadworthy this summer.  It's around 140k miles.

[dross93ranger]

Ok...truck pics.  The plan is to leave all the rust, drop it 4" or so and use it to haul mulch and just drive.  If it prove reliable, then next year it might end up on air ride.  it is an 83 with the Z22 motor, 4-Speed Manual. The Sonoma is my toy.  My instagram is dross93ranger if anybody uses it, when the work starts this summer I will be posting regular on it.  The only part I have ordered so far is a brand new tailgate handle since the current one is broken and I can't put the tailgate down.

 

[Charlie69]

If you are hauling mulch do not drop it.  You will be able to haul heavier loads with out concern if you leave it stock height.

[dross93ranger]

If you are hauling mulch do not drop it.  You will be able to haul heavier loads with out concern if you leave it stock height.

Illninstall air shocks for the days that I haul stuff, it will be driven a lot more then it hauls.

[Lockleaf]

If hazards work, but signals don't, try messing with the hazard switch. It disconnects the turn signals and engages a different circuit to run the hazards.

 

720 hazard switches are well known for the turn signal contacts being particular. You have to move the switch around carefully until you hit the sweet spot and the turn signals work.

[captain720]

Air shocks are awesome, I wish I could afford them as I like to overload my trucks.

 

Don't slam the front too bad as it will naturally come down with weight in the bed and get even closer to the bumps and stuff.(if I'm wrong somebody correct me)

[dross93ranger]

That's a great tip on the hazard switch. I will mess with it this week and see if I can get it working. I work swing shift and have 2 daughters so finding time is tough at times.

 

And air shocks can be cheap >$100 if you run a Schrader valve and fill up that way. I use a $20 slime compressor from Walmart that plugs into a cigarette lighter.

[captain720]

I must be looking at the wrong air shocks, which ones are you looking at? The things that increase load capacity like my cousin has on his 12 valve Cummins?

[dross93ranger]

http://m.autozone.com/suspension-steering-tire-and-wheel/shock-strut-rear/gabriel-hijackers-shock-strut-rear//nissan-datsun/720-truck-2wd/1983/4-cylinders-m-2-2l-2bl-sohc/774315_631896_0?location=

[datzenmike]

The hazard switch is problematic on the 720. There are two positions When ON for the 4 ways, the turn signals are disconnected. When you place in the OFF position, the turn signals are re-connected but the switch often travels too far and goes right past this connection. Turn the turn signal on and move the 4 way switch slightly towards on. When the turn signal begins to flash... you're there.

 

 

Should this not have any effect you can swap the flasher units. If this gets the turn signals working and the 4 ways stop the flasher is at fault.

 

 

 

 

Your choke should close when you step on the gas just before starting a cold engine. The choke has an electrical heater that slowly over 8-10 min warms it and turns it off. If hanging open it may just need adjusting or the linkage is off.