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New 620 owner


homieelee

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Hey just wanted to introduce myself, picked up a '75 Datsun long bed from srfjay from the classifieds on the forum.  

 

Things I am planning to do:

-need gauge cluster and trim (currently there isn't any in place, pretty odd feeling driving w/ no speedo)

-front disc conversion (contacted mklotz70 and he's super helpful)

-the throttle pedal is pretty stiff (unsure if that's how it is or if it can be adjusted)

-flush all fluids/oil

 

pnnjXZMl.jpg

 

 

-Mike

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Someone may have added a spring or replaced it with something too stiff. It will only wear the throttle shaft out in the carb. Try moving the throttle by hand and see if it it the carb or the cable.

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Hey just wanted to introduce myself, picked up a '75 Datsun long bed from srfjay from the classifieds on the forum.  

 

Things I am planning to do:

-need gauge cluster and trim (currently there isn't any in place, pretty odd feeling driving w/ no speedo)

-front disc conversion (contacted mklotz70 and he's super helpful)

-the throttle pedal is pretty stiff (unsure if that's how it is or if it can be adjusted)

-flush all fluids/oil

 

pnnjXZMl.jpg

 

 

-Mike

nice truck

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I'm sure it won't be hard to figure out my license plate, and the car is orange B).  When i parked the truck the Tundra wasn't there, i got a good laugh after returning to see the difference. 

 

Contact Ted or seeker they might have one

 

Whats Ted and seeker's username?  Still learning who's who on the forums.  Thanks.

 

I see a few gauge clusters on ebay but not wanting to pay over $120+ for them.  A craigslist guy wanted $165 just for the cluster trim piece, but that piece proves to be harder to find.  I do have a big hole right now, definitely can just mount my phone in there while i drive.

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Blanks out license plate but drives it in public. :lol:

 

Potential loss mitigation. He's required by law to drive with a license plate, but not required to post license plate on internet. 

 

Though I didn't check if there's geographical data stored in the picture (sometimes there is). 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Finally got some time to work on the truck.  Sourced a gauge cluster, plugged everything up and of course nothing worked other than a the lights.  Speedometer cable isn't turning, so i have that ordered from Napa.  What does that yellow/red wire in the second photo feed?  I assume it connects to the other one.

ttzWH5gl.jpg

 

 

kaxn67Sl.jpg

 

Temp/fuel gauge don't work.  I traced the fuel sensor line to the tank and found it was snapped off.  I shorted the yellow wire to the ground and the fuel gauge moved to full.  So at least i know the actual gauge works/wire from sensor to gauge isn't corroded.  Where do i connect that yellow fuel sensor line to?

jgsK03Tl.jpg

 

I found this small relay? on the far left side of the engine bay disconnected.  I connected it back in and heard the relay click.  With the car off it stays quite warm to the touch.  is that normal?

RMveLd7l.jpg

 

Thanks in advance

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Can someone tell me where the horn relay is?  I tested the horns themselves with power from the battery and they work.  I took off the steering wheel to see if the ground wire was off, touched the metal spring to ground and nothing happens.  I found a 3 wire relay next to the glove box, but it doesn't have the same Green/Black ground wire, just green/light green/ green white.

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Its a 3 prong relay similar to the headlight relay on the passenger side. Must be somewhere around the rad support on the driver side

 

I checked both sides, just can't see it.  Here's my driver and pax side, let me know if i'm just totally overlooking it.  Or if someone can snap a photo and point me in the right direction.  Feeling like an idiot

lUFCcRFl.jpg

 

MTlj6lBl.jpg

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Pretty sure the horn relay is that spam can shaped thing in the corner against the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay.

 

Does it have 3 or 4 prongs coming off of it?

 

another member said it was the Choke Heater relay, it has the round plug about 5-6 wires.

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  • 4 weeks later...

thanks to Beebani for the brackets and datzenmike for answering all my random questions.

 

got the front disc brakes up and running, truck brakes a lot better now.  

 

few tips i learned, maybe this will help others:

-don't forget to get BANJO bolts!!! M10x1.0 

-remove the existing star pattern brake line clip & you can reuse the existing U clip

-make sure to remove the residual check valve (only the front for me, as i left the rear drums on)

-when reinstalling the wheel bearing torque to 25ft-lbs turn the hub left and right a few times, re torque again to 25ft-lbs, then back out the nut 40-70 degrees

-the nut is 26mm, i had every size up to 32mm except 26mm

 

rattle can paint job, as the brackets are just bare steel

Dp6SadAl.jpg

 

followed the guides here using the d21 hardbody 4wd calipers & pads, honda passport rotors, the brake lines were a bit too long but it works

jMIAZJzl.jpg

 

used a '79 280ZX 15/16 MC, bolted right up, didn't have to adjust the booster rod

ZQnTS3Il.jpg

 

-PO had a 1/4" spacer installed, reused it as i needed it to clear the front calipers w/ the cragar wheels. but not much thread to grab

ordered new studs M12x1.50RH 2", so that'll be my next project

f8xDaIAl.jpg

 

1ojPjyhl.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

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