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Beavers 720 build (camping truck).


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Funny thing is yeah the tail lights and front side lights turned on when head lights turned on or just the marker lights turned on.... until yesterday that is. So I pulled the cluster and removed what looked like an after market alarm box thing. Now they don't turn on anymore. I guess maybe the alarm was wired to flash the marker lights if triggered. There is a harness hanging in there now that it was plugged into. I suppose I should plug it back in and see what happens. But yes before all that I had the tail lights working no break lights no turn signals. Maybe I can just jumper some pins in it if it is a break in the wiring or whatever. Dont know what pins though Guess I could get out my meter :/  

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okay got out my multi meter and put on my thinking hat. Using the wiring diagram from the manual I dived into the circuit. That 10 pin connector I was wondering about is the issue. It is supposed to be plugged into the hazard button thing that goes on top of the steering column. I don't have that button assembly it seems. Oddly this connector also ties into the break light circuit. So I can jumper wire the pins on that plug to power and activate any of the lights not working that way. Looks like I am in need of yet another part. I was thinking I could get away with looping some of the wires on that plug to get break and flashers working but I don't think that will work because the lights wont be tied into the turn signal switch properly. The only way would be to Frankenstein two harnesses and I don't want to butcher it like that. Anyone got a spare 10 pin hazard light button/harness they want to sell? I saw one on ebay last night for 100 bucks fml.          

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Post a pic of what you need. The hazard connector i can think of doesn't have that many pins.

I found one, should be here saturday. Though my search for parts I discovered that there are at least 2 versions of the hazard switch. There is a six pin version and there is the ten pin version I have. I think it might be unique to 86's so I feel pretty lucky to have found one. It seems like a really bad design choice to make the whole lighting system dependent on this one harness imo but then again if you want all the lights to flash I guess its a way to do that.

 

pics of two types

 

six pin

hazard%202.jpg

 

10 pin 

hazard.jpg

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Interesting. I've never pulled that switch on my 86. I didn't realize it was different. The 6 wire is the one I'm familiarv with.

 

Glad you found one.

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okay got that hazard switch installed and that solved the turn signal issues and partly solved the break light issue. It seems that the alarm was hacked into the lighting system and pulling it out caused there to be very low voltage going to the break lights and marker lights. I was able re rout 12v from the alarm harness to the light system and everything works as it should now. I am a little worried about there being a drain on the battery now but I have not tested that out yet. Need to charge the battery and let it sit a day or two and see if it drains. If that happens Ill have to pull the dash and try to completely undo that aftermarket wiring that's in there.

 

Now we are onto swapping the transmission and cleaning up the engine bay. Probably a break job as well. 

 

After that I am going to pull the seats and revamp the inside. Going to look for rust in the floor and try to repair and eliminate rust in there. Thinking about painting the floor with bed liner. Has anyone done this?

 

Also picked up a couple doors this weekend that are in great shape. My doors have dings and the driver side has a rusted out hinge thats causing the door to sag and has damaged the front fender. I wont be putting the doors on till I am ready to strip and paint the whole truck.

 

I am planning to try the driveway rustolium paint job thing because it cant look any worse than it does and I can see that rust is starting to be a problem. The bed is probably the worst in the rust department. Got a hole going on the drivers side wheel well and there are some holes in the bed. So going to strip it down and try my had and patching the bed. Then paint in bed liner.     

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Sounds like a solid plan... por 15 might be a little better for the rusty areas... or something similar.... I don't believe Bedliner has anything in it for rust proofing.... I could be wrong but might be worth looking into to make sure ...

Also I think there is a way to test for current draw on the vehicle....

I think you put a volt meter inbetween the positive terminal and the battery clamp..

Not sure the settings on the volt meter but it should be an easy google to find the exact process...

With it hooked up if you in fact have a current draw you can disconnect things one at a time and see if the draw goes away....

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Sounds like a solid plan... por 15 might be a little better for the rusty areas... or something similar.... I don't believe Bedliner has anything in it for rust proofing.... I could be wrong but might be worth looking into to make sure ...

Also I think there is a way to test for current draw on the vehicle....

I think you put a volt meter inbetween the positive terminal and the battery clamp..

Not sure the settings on the volt meter but it should be an easy google to find the exact process...

With it hooked up if you in fact have a current draw you can disconnect things one at a time and see if the draw goes away....

Have heard of the por stuff but I dont know much about it. I was thinking bed liner because I am going to buy a can for the bed anyway. But yeah I should probably look into options for rust protection in the cab thats good advice. 

 

Right meter between the cable and the post that would work. Probably just measure for current I suppose. Good call.

 

I have not used a welder in a lot of years but its like riding a bike probably right? haha am thinking its probably pretty hard to patch such thin metal with out burning though... guess Ill have to do some youtube research on that before I start.  I know this has been talked about before but whats a bed swap look like? I think I recall reading that beds are not necessarily interchangeable between years. I defiantly need a new tail gate, are those year specific? 

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The biggest reason I liked the por 15 is that I can be painted over a rusty surface or bare metal.... but bare metal needs to be prepped for proper adhesion....

The product does what it says, i' m about 95% satisfied with it, 5% may have been my learning curve... I did everything on my 521 with it... frame, cab (inside and out) and all the suspension parts so far..

Prep is the key.... even for the bed line material, I've seen some that want to be applied to bare metal.... just make sure whatever your gonna use you follow that products prep procedure and you should be fine....

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The biggest reason I liked the por 15 is that I can be painted over a rusty surface or bare metal.... but bare metal needs to be prepped for proper adhesion....

The product does what it says, i' m about 95% satisfied with it, 5% may have been my learning curve... I did everything on my 521 with it... frame, cab (inside and out) and all the suspension parts so far..

Prep is the key.... even for the bed line material, I've seen some that want to be applied to bare metal.... just make sure whatever your gonna use you follow that products prep procedure and you should be fine....

What por product would you recommend for inside floor panels?

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This is the basic por 15 kit..

Screenshot_20170612-174910_zpscytptzsd.p

The degreaser and metal prep is good because it's cleans up with water....

The por that is shown is the standard rust prevention paint....

Comes in gloss, semi gloss black... and I think gray and even a clear now....

I used semi gloss on everything I did....

The one thing is por is uv light sensitive.. In my case I used a chassis black top coat on any part that was gonna see the sun. Places like the floors don't need to be top coated...

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So I drove it to my brother in laws shop for trans swap he said he should get around to it this week. About an hour drive, no real issues other than the transmission complaining about gears other than 1st, 3rd, and 5th. I had to charge the battery to start it at first then I stopped and got gas about 10 miles down the road it didnt quite have enough juice to start again so I had to hit it with my jumper box. Am thinking the alternator might not be working well but will need to do some more driving I think to see.

 

I had to get a trip permit because I haven't been able to register it as title was lost. Previous owner lost it and the DMV said I need to have a vin inspection to make sure not reported stolen :/  Anyone have experience with this process in Washington state? They want me to make an appointment and bring it to Vancouver and that seems a little crazy to me. 

 

So Idling seemed rough at times and I am wondering if this could be timing issue. At lowest rpm no throttle seemed like the engine shakes left to right quite a bit. Thoughts?

 

Also damn its loud at certain RPMs I think that muffler is completely shot.

 

Lastly dose not want to shut off smoothly. Chugs for a second before shutting off kind of weird.   

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Chugging on shutdown is called dieseling. If you have a stock carb, your idle cutoff Solenoid may not be functioning. If Weber it may not even have one.

 

Running rich can also lead to this issue.

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Chugging on shutdown is called dieseling. If you have a stock carb, your idle cutoff Solenoid may not be functioning. If Weber it may not even have one.

 

Running rich can also lead to this issue.

Its webber 32 electric choke. 

 

Would a rich mix cause that shaky idle as well? 

 

 

Edit: maybe I should have mechanic pull off head while he has the engine out and check head gasket? Could be misfire type situation from  blown head gasket?

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I would check compression before paying someone to pull the head.

 

If you still have access to the last owner getting a title is really easy, I just got him to sign a bill of sale and a affidavit in lue of title (needs a witness, like the bank) and then I took that stuff to the DMV and they sent me a title in 4 weeks.

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I would check compression before paying someone to pull the head.

 

If you still have access to the last owner getting a title is really easy, I just got him to sign a bill of sale and a affidavit in lue of title (needs a witness, like the bank) and then I took that stuff to the DMV and they sent me a title in 4 weeks.

Yeah I was just thinking because the engine will be out it might be easier to pull the head at that time. Its my brother in law doing the work so its not going to cost me as much as it would a stranger. Still I could just do it myself after the tranny is in. 

 

As for the DMV its a bit more complicated for me because the previous owner (who I do have access too) had the title in hand but lost it before he registered it in his name. So he was in the process of getting a new title but he was not able to contact the owner before him. So he was told he had to prove he couldn't reach the old owner and he had some documentation of his attempts to contact him. That was in Oregon though so I think the rules may be different for Washington. The registration office said in this case if you cant reach the person who last had the registration in their name then its a vehicle inspection. Then It takes 3 years to get the title as it will be "in question" during that time. However I can still sell the vehicle on a bill of sale so I am only worried about the chance it is stolen haha. I am not that worried though really as the guy I bought it from was cool and I have is contact information, know where he lives, have bill of sale with his info on it ect ect. He got the truck and its was literally sitting in his drive way un-registered un-driven for 3-4 years. He only decided to sell it when he got off his butt and tried to get it running and register it but failed to fix the original problem after throwing parts at it, gave up and was like someone take this thing out of my yard.       

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2 things that might help.... take the vin number to your local police... they should be able run it to see if it was stolen...

 

2nd is if you know someone out of state whos dmv has different rules you might be able to play a game with the title...

A guy I work with had the same problem here in mass....

He sold it on paper to a friend in New Hampshire where the rules were a little different. Didn't need the title... but once registered and titled in NH his friend sold it back, again just on paper... and now he had paperwork to take to the DMV in mass....

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2 things that might help.... take the vin number to your local police... they should be able run it to see if it was stolen...

 

2nd is if you know someone out of state whos dmv has different rules you might be able to play a game with the title...

A guy I work with had the same problem here in mass....

He sold it on paper to a friend in New Hampshire where the rules were a little different. Didn't need the title... but once registered and titled in NH his friend sold it back, again just on paper... and now he had paperwork to take to the DMV in mass....

That is a good idea on the vin, I had thought of trying that. The last thing I want is to have it confiscated or something. that would be just my luck I take it in and get arrested and the truck gets impounded lol.

 

I don't really know that many out of state people but that is a good idea. Washington seems like a real pain in the ass when it comes to this stuff. I might look into the Oregon rules and see if I cant get it titled there by my father who lives there or something.   

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I figured i would throw it out there..

 

I had my friend get my atv impounded one day when I went to get it released I had to bring the vin info down the police station....

He goes give me a minute....

Comes back and say umm.. we have a problem it came back stolen....

I was blown away... I think i started talking and studdering and stuff...

Cop then say ahh just kidding your all set to go pick it up...

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I figured i would throw it out there..

 

I had my friend get my atv impounded one day when I went to get it released I had to bring the vin info down the police station....

He goes give me a minute....

Comes back and say umm.. we have a problem it came back stolen....

I was blown away... I think i started talking and studdering and stuff...

Cop then say ahh just kidding your all set to go pick it up...

That's pretty funny.

 

Honestly I didn't think it would be this big a deal to get a new title or I probably wouldn't have bought the damn truck. oh well, whats done is done. I am going to attempt to jump though their hoops and see how it goes I guess. I am a new Washington resident formerly of Oregon... it really feels like this state tries to stick it to you on the DMV stuff.   

 

I am starting to get a little stressed out about how long its been taking me to get it into a driving condition. Its not as if I need it as a daily or plan to daily it but you know it would be nice to have it road worthy. Partly my fault for not having as much time to fuss with it as I would like. 

 

Fingers crossed the transmission goes in without too much bother.... will be into a new muffler asap after that... so much fart sound blah.

 

Compression test I guess is in order as well. I am really starting to suspect blown head gasket the more I read forums here.   

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