Crashtd420 Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 I would recommend an actual driveline shop.... I would think you would wanna rebalance the entire drive shaft after... I would be surprised if Napa could do anything more than turn a rotor or drum... 2 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted May 12, 2017 Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 I would recommend an actual drive-line shop.... I would think you would wanna re-balance the entire drive shaft after... I would be surprised if Napa/Jerrys could do anything more than turn a rotor or drum... I completely agree with you here. 1 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted May 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2017 okay good to know. I see there are a few places in Vancouver and Portland that do drive lines specifically. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 13, 2017 Report Share Posted May 13, 2017 You don't have to cap those hoses or the EGR or the TVV valve with the three caps on it. Only openings in the intake that actually have vacuum need to be considered. Keep the vacuum advance connected and make sure any hose goes directly from the carb to the distributor. No side branches. Anything else coming from the carb can be pulled off and removed without capping other than to maybe keep dirt out. Just pulling the hose off the EGR or the VVT that runs the EGR disables it. Truck will run better with everything working but.... what ever. 1 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted May 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 You are probably right stock set up would be cool. I dunno though do you really thing these trucks run better with stock carb and emissions stuff on them? Serious question mike. Also thanks for the help this far. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted May 14, 2017 Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 Stock, with everything working right, they will be the most efficient and reliable. They we're designed that way and will perform as they were designed to do. 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted May 14, 2017 Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 Stock starts better and runs better, but a weber makes more power. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 14, 2017 Report Share Posted May 14, 2017 Stock, with everything working right, they will be the most efficient and reliable. They we're designed that way and will perform as they were designed to do. Stock starts better and runs better, but a weber makes more power. Both very true. The stock set up is very 'drivable' although it tends to not impress much for power. The Z24 was designed to make gobs of low RPM torque which is exactly what a truck engine should do. As well it has to produce fewer emissions. If you take emissions out of the equation you can add a bit more power. However you are stuck with the head that, only having to feed a low RPM engine, does not breath that well when trying to get more power from it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 That makes a lot of sense put that way guys. If the wiring was not such a mess I would give the stock carb a shot. I do think I will keep it and maybe try and re build it to see how that goes. I have a fair number of irons in the fire atm though so we'll see. Picked up the transmission from the guy in Eugene this weekend. 200 bucks. Turned out to be an interesting group of guys. Was a big shop and yard full of datsun trucks haha. Guy was a nissan freak apparently, and does a sort of co-op for people who want to work on their trucks in the area. They said they pulled the transmission apart to check it out and it was looking good. So fingers crossed I suppose, they seemed like good folks. They owner claimed I wouldn't need to adjust the drive shaft... Will measure tonight and see if its any different. 1 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted May 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 Well here are some photos of this transmission. Where are the identifying marks if any? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 17, 2017 Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 There are none. Look on the engine plate located below the passenger side hood hinge on the inner fender. Bottom line TRANS/AXLE....... FS5W71B............. HF41 This is what was installed at the factory. Possibly changed but should be a 71B 5 speed. 1 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted May 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 This trany is the one I just bought. I am scratching my head a bit because the guy first said it was out of an 89 but then I thought he said 84 when I picked it up. He also claimed no need to modify the drive shaft on my short bed 4x4. I probably should have asked more questions but they all seemed cool and knowledgeable so I just took it as I was in a hurry to get going. I'd like to figure out what tranny this is for sure. I guess I should just text the guy again and try and confirm what year this transmission is. Maybe it was in the 89 but originally out of an 84... Its short and it looks like the spedo cable port is open. So it was 2wd I guess. Should I make a thread for progress in getting this truck back into order or just keep with this one? Edit: So the guy just got back to me. Said it's out of an 85 720. His original add was for a tranny out of a crashed 89 he was parting out. I think they had this in the shop and sold it to me after I told them what I was working with. Kind of makes me feel a little weird about the switch up but again they all seemed really nice and he is being communicative about it still so hope its not a crap part. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 17, 2017 Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 Yeah I'm at work and the firewall doesn't let the pictures in. Probably a 71C.... it will bolt to your engine but the length is wrong. The 71B was either 26" or 31.5" long. Stand it up on two 2x4s and place a piece of wood horizontally on the driveshaft end. Measure up vertically from the bell to the wood. This avoids a slope distance which is always longer than the exact horizontal measurement. 1 Quote Link to comment
84720FourWheel Posted May 17, 2017 Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 Looks like a short 71b. Shifter is not a 71c type. Looks like it should be a direct replacement. 2 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted May 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 Looks like a short 71b. Shifter is not a 71c type. Looks like it should be a direct replacement. Well that would be good news and consistent with what they guy told me. If its not pouring rain when I get home ill try to measure like you said mike. 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 17, 2017 Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 That look exactly like the transmission in my basment.... short 71b.... Mine did have Zl71b in raised letters on the side... 2 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted May 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2017 Also pulled the trigger on the weber carb conversion kit. Should be here by the weekend. I dunno if I'll have time to work on it this week end have friends coming from out of town. Might have some time on friday or sunday. would be nice to get running so I can drive it to the shop for the trans swap. The spedo doesn't work on the truck right now... well not correctly anyway its way off. So will it matter if I go cable from transfer case or from tranny? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 18, 2017 Report Share Posted May 18, 2017 Yes I can see it now. From a 720 and 2wd if it has the speedometer hole milled out and a pinion in there. I have a 4x4 shorty and the hole is blind, never drilled out. To read correctly at all it has to read the driveshaft turns. If it's on the transfer case keep it. You can run it on the transmission but if using the trans case LO range it will read 60MPH when actually going 30. You still have to plug the speedometer pinion hole anyway to keep the oil in and the crap out. 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted May 18, 2017 Report Share Posted May 18, 2017 Yes, make this your build thread. If you want go back and edit your first post if you desire to change the name. 1 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted May 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2017 Well I put on the weber last night after work. Started right up and sounds muuuuuch better. Idles much lower and stays running after choke opens. I have to say those weber instructions kind of suck... Have issues with the throttle linkage still though. Its like the bracket sucks and I need the throttle cable to be shorter. Also the exhaust is loud as hell in the back I'm thinking the muffler might be rusted out or if there is a cat on it maybe that needs to come out now? Took it for a drive and no real issues. The tranny is jacked though I tried to use reverse and it will back up then slams out of gear. After I did that got stuck in second and had to force it out of gear. Knew that needed to come out but its sad I wish I could drive it now haha. Next up the break light/turn signals dont work. Other lights all work. The steering column has been taken apart I see. There are some plugs hanging off it and some of the connectors that dont looks so good. I'm guessing that is a good place to start? Any simple wiring diagrams for that stuff or photos would be nice. Also anyone got a drivers side door they want to part with? haha the bottom hinge is broken and it looks like there is some rust :( 1 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted May 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2017 short video of running warm up. idle is slower after kick down throttle. http://vid195.photobucket.com/albums/z102/Beaver_shots/IMG_1235.mp4 1 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted June 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 okay I'm back from a short vacation and working on the truck again. So my latest goal is to get the lights working. yesterday when I started out i had head lights working and running lights working. No break or turn signal lights. There are some wires hanging that I think have to do with the turn signal lights (been looking at the manual). For the life of me I cant sort out were these are supposed to plug in? *edit* So googling around this morning I have found that these go to a couple of round flasher modules... It seems I am missing these. Are they normally just mounted under the dash or what? Can I replace these with any flasher module? Any suggestions? The steering column was open when I got the truck and I replaced the ignition switch (got my chime working at least lol). All the places for plugs are plugged on the turn signal assembly. I pulled the instrument cluster out to get a better look in the dash and I found a fairly large amount of oil sludge I guess from the speedo cable? So I cleaned as much of that up as I could including the back of the cluster that was caked with crap I am wondering if goop on these traces could cause shorts? I also pulled out some little black box that I think was some kind of aftermarket alarm system : / had a switch mounted under the dash and a couple wires going to a little red light on the dash... you know typical 90's alarm garbage. There was also an inline fuse hooked to a harness that plugged into the box that blew when I started the truck after I put everything back together and this killed the truck... wouldn't start till I replaced the fuse. Am fairly pissed at the previous owner for this wiring. Its a freaking mess back there between the alarm system and the cd player they tried to install. So anyway It starts and the dash cluster seems to be working but now the running lights arent coming on... ahhhhh feeling frustrated. The worst part is I am supposedly an electronics tech as a day job.... I feel dumb. also what is this? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 Go to a pic n pull and grab the newer electronic flashers. They are not load dependent and flash at the same speed even if one bulb is burned out. The 4 way and the turn units are the same if electronic. 1 Quote Link to comment
Beaver_shots Posted June 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 Go to a pic n pull and grab the newer electronic flashers. They are not load dependent and flash at the same speed even if one bulb is burned out. The 4 way and the turn units are the same if electronic. I see my Napa down the street has round 2 post flashers napa brand for 15 bucks a pop. I assume these would work? Also would these being missing cause the break lights not to work? I am tempted to put that stupid alarm box back in and see if the running lights come back on. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 Yes those napa flashers will work fine. There is a white plastic mount up under the dash they snap in to. It looks like this. Ignore the metal strap, just look at the white thing Originally one was much larger than the other, ship i have a rubber spacer in mine, but they go in like this. Yours will not necessarily be mounted where mine is either. No neither of those has any connection to your brake lights. Do your tail lights work when you turn on the headlights? 1 Quote Link to comment
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