B210 Ka24de + L20B Swap effects

[ColdSaus]

Hey Ratsun,

I'm doing research on a 1970s B210 as a first car and I'm in the market for a cheap and reliable way to own one. what would like to have is a car capable of spurited driving on a backroad once and a while (that is NOT a miata) but still reliable enough to get me to and from school. I've done a bit of research on the KA as well as the L20B,and they're both around my preferred power range. but I'm not sure which one would be best for my application. I've heard good things from both when it comes to torque and low rpm power. will the KA produce an understeer because of its weight? if so, would the L20 be a better option? I've also seen rotary swaps on these cars, but I'm not sure if a rotary would be a good first engine to introduce me to owning a car.

 

Thanks for the help.

[willz]

A KA swap is a bit more work than a L20b

KA makes much more power stock than the L20

L20 has less moving parts

KA needs to be wired up since it has fuel Injection

L20's are all over, easy to find and usually cheaper than the KA

I like my L20, it's period correct and easy to work on

[willz]

What's your automotive skill level?

[flatcat19]

Study the capabilities of the A motor....and be a stud.

[datzenmike]

L20B.... 280 pounds about 90 hp

KA24.... 380 pounds about 145 hp

 

Understeer? More weight or traction on the front tires would (maybe) add oversteer. There are simple corrections that mitigate the effects of either.

 

You're going to school??? Stick with the A14.

[ColdSaus]

What's your automotive skill level?

I'm working in my uncle's garage during the summer

[Cosmonaut]

Buy a "B" smart, try to be as free from rust as possible, do a professional compression check, listen for bearing whine from the wheels, transmission and differential. After purchase go on to ebay and buy a Nissan shop manual for the year of your new to you "B".

 

Do a complete tune up, adjust valves, spark plugs, filters, new hoses...etc.

Along with this the "B" is an old car...wether it is pretty or beat up it is about 40 years old or older. Clean all the fuel lines, check all the bushings, CHANGE the tranny, coolant (new coolant hoses), differential and engine fluid, CHANGE all three brake hoses, flush out the brake fluid and check the shocks/struts.

 

For daily driving reliabilty, Start with having an electronic ignition (factory) which is standard on the 1978. Pop on a Weber carburetor jetted specificaly for the A14 (this must be done properly with the linkage and vacuum hooked up RIGHT) using a one piece Weber adapter.

 

At this point if the compression is good you will have a reliable car and you will be able to do simple maintenance.

 

The "B" will give you 35 plus mpg while being a very reliable daily driver.

 

Then after completing all of the above do the following.

 

 

Being that you are interested in "spirited" driving. Start with your suspension. After reading up on the "B"'s suspension upgrades and finished up, get a feel for the drive. You will at the point know how much more power you wish to ad.

 

Keep in mind around the world many race "B"'s, 1200's and Cherry's all with the A14 engine and are very successful. They can put out a suprising amount of power/torque without modifying the engine internals.

[datsunfreak]

...still reliable enough to get me to and from school....

 

 

I've also seen rotary swaps on these car...

 

Your first statement negates your second.   ^_^

[datsunfreak]

And to echo what they said, spend your money on suspension and brakes. Wait to add more power until later. 

[willz]

Get all the little things squared away first. You'd be surprised how much all the little things add up.

 

 

Once you've got a solid reliable vehicle that only needs its regualarly scheuduled maintenance, THEN look at upgrading things.... unless those things are are getting to the point where they need to be replaced, then maybe splurge for the upgraded version.

 

Also be aware that by upgrading some items, this may cause other issues. For every action there is a reaction and automobiles are no different. Let's say you replace your master cylinder on your brakes and are now able to push more on those pads.... well, those spongy old take lines may need to be replaced as well, maybe even the hardline busts or has been held in place by rust for so many years. Now you've got more to fix.

[willz]

If this is to be your daily "reliable" vehicle, I'd suggest checking and sorting out all the things that make the car reliable and safe first, gas lines, brakes, electrical, valve adjustment, clean gas tank, fuel filter etc etc

[Digi7al Trauma]

Stick with the A series, it may not be AMAZE-balls, but it will work... for cheap... and wont eat all your money, and you wont be eating ramen.

 

Ka24- Wires.... TONS of wires... plus brakes and suspension mods, plus fuel system mods, plus a crap load of wires....

 

rotary- not the most reliable, good luck finding rotors or housings that are in decent shape, i have a rotory in an mg midget and decent parts are getting scarce, add in apex seals, expect to rebuild any you buy... once again, brake mods will be needed.

 

l20b- Meh... i see no real down side, i would consider working some better brakes into the car possibly... and depending on your skill, it wont be impossible but it will take time (which a dd cant afford to be down for)

 

Tbh, willz hit the nail on the head, any of these swaps will need more... and that is on top of sorting out the vehicle's systems other than the motor. (electrical, wiring, fule/brake/water lines, diff fluid,broken and worn parts, ect)