d.p Posted May 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Question about retorquing the head. I read the dime quarterly article here: http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2011/09/tech-how-to-headgasket-replacement.html Retorquing the Head Loosen ONE bolt at a time. Start in the order you would normally torque them, from the middle working outward. (If you are planning on removing the head, you loosen from the outside, working in toward the center). After you break ONE bolt loose... I like to remove it, and inspect the threads. Clean threads means no coolant has been seeping into the bolt holes. Rust/dirt will mean you can not get as accurate of a reading when it comes time to torque it. Wire brushing the bolt clean, before reinstalling it, is a good idea. Torque the head bolt. I like using a beam type wrench, in a firm steady pull to the full value. When you are all done, and before reinstalling the spark plugs, crank the motor. It is not uncommon to find the coolant has seeped into the combustion chambers while the bolts were loosened. This will prevent nasty surprises, and is quicker than draining the coolant as recommended by the factory manuals. If I do notice a large amount of coolant spewing back out the spark plug hole, time to change the engine oil and most likely that head gasket it already bad. I just re-torqued them without loosening them, should I go through all this before replacing the HG? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Head gasket re-torqueing isn't normally needed on an L series. This is primarily for the Z24 engine on the later 720 trucks that did have a head gasket failure problem. This loosening of each bolt and then torqueing to 60 ft lb at every tune up, was their preventative for it. If you suspect a gasket failing or near failure I see no harm in doing this on an L series. It's unlikely to cure it but worth a try. Loosen ONE bolt at a time and re-torque to whatever the L16 spec is (45?) Never loosen more than one bolt. Do this in any order you like. Do this on a dead cold engine. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Posting a response about your thread chasing question here instead.... I think Mike can verify the head bolts are m10 x 1.5.... I looked up thread chasers and they all seem kind of short... don't remember how much reach you need to clean the threads out.. I have read another way and it's cheaper.. Hopefully some one can confirm this... Basically get a long enough bolt , grind a v groove along the length of it.. the v groove should collect the crap in the hole... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 5, 2017 Report Share Posted May 5, 2017 Ok found on Google "diy thread chaser" I'd by a nut and a bolt ... after u notch the bolt, make sure the edges have no burr.. use the nut to check the bolt and make sure it will thread in nice without hurt the threads in the block.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 I think it was m10x1.5... I'm in my garage let me check my old head bolts.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 I think it was m10x1.5... I'm in my garage let me check my old head bolts.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 6, 2017 Report Share Posted May 6, 2017 Definitely m10x1.5.... there is only about an inch of the thread... I guess it's not as deep into the block as I thought.... If you get one around 2 inches long you should be fine.... When I put the bolt through my old head about 1 1/4 was sticking out the bottom... Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Trying to wrap my head around getting the engine to TDC #1 and replacing the head gasket myself. I have the Haynes manual, watched Hainz's video and read as much as I can on the internet but still not clear on how to set it to TDC and how to know it is at TDC #1 other than looking at the lobes. What I want to know is how do I move the engine to get it to TDC #1? With the valve cover off and looking at the chain I don't see a mark on it so I assume I have to turn the crankshaft until I do? To do that I I just put a socket on the cam sprocket and turn it clockwise? Or do I need to vice grip the cam and then turn the cam sprocket clockwise? Sorry for all the questions but I am a complete novice to this and want to learn. Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 use a breaker bar on the crank, you can always double check your work by looking in the sparkplug hole on the #1 when you get it where you think you need it. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 use a breaker bar on the crank, you can always double check your work by looking in the sparkplug hole on the #1 when you get it where you think you need it. Clockwise? And can do it with everything still connected? In gear? Parking brake? Do I need to block the chain? I guess not if I am just rotating and not taking it off? What size socket is that? Looks bigger than anything I got (21mm). Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 I don't recall the size (mine is a different pulley now) but yes, clockwise works, have it OUT OF GEAR, or else the truck will try to roll. if you want, you can remove the plugs, will help it rotate a bit easier, but its not to tough. don't attempt the block the chain, it needs to rotate as well. the chain blocking isn't until you attempt to remove the cam gear. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Its 27mm but a bitch to move with the fan and shroud there. Got it rotated to what I think is TDC #1 but the marks on the crank don't line up exactly. It looks like maybe one more turn to get it to TDC? Also looks to be already marked. Not at TDC#1, looks to be 5 degrees off. Will move it some more. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 FWIW here are my plugs, #1 looks to be fouled? Quote Link to comment
spdcrazy Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 I am not good enough to tell you about the plugs honestly. still learning myself. and shouldn't be any need to mark the pulley/chain but it wouldn't hurt. I have only done this a few times. keep in mind the marks on the timing might be off a bit depending on the angle you are looking at it. take a flashlight and look into the number one spark plug hole. the whole point of this, it to have nothing move when you put things back together, so if you are at TDC on the head/cam. as well as the bottom end, everything should go back on the same as it was before. Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Looking into #1 spark plug and I see what looks like the top of the piston and #4 looks to be at the top as well. Turned it a little more and now the oblong hole and the triangle notch on the cam are lined up as well as the crankshaft (for the most part). Safe to assume I am at TDC #1 now? Anything else need to be done before I proceed w/taking off the cam sprocket bolt? 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Hey dp.... looking good... yes 1 and 4 will both be up. But only number 1 will be on the compression stroke . and your intake and exhaust lobe on the the cam over cylinder 1 should be pointing kind of up and away... your mark seem right from what you say and I can see ... And plugs seem good.. how old are they? 1 Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 that looks right I would break the bolts loose then relign it up my L series vid is on youtube. the plugs don't look bad. Mine are worse and I hardly ever change plugs and distributor caps 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Plugs were replaced in 10/2016 so not that old. Break the head bolts loose then line it up? Is that because it may move when breaking them loose? I watched all your videos and they are good, long but good. :P I did loosen and re-torque the head bolts in the hope of mitigating the small leaks I have but that was before I started messing with the TDC. Time will tell if that stopped the small leaks I have. I did notice when I took the valve cover off the back part of that gasket was bent out of shape, like bent at an angle down, not sure what that is. Not doing anymore now because I don't have the head gasket yet, I just wanted to learn and see what TDC #1 looked like in preparation for doing this. I got the plastic chain holder today and have a complete gasket kit, ARP turbo bolts, new valve cover bolts and a bunch of other shit on the way. Once it all shows up I am going to pull the head, have it checked and then replace all the gaskets I can. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Sounds like you ll be fine.... the arp are a nice upgrade.... I loosely installed the studs then the nuts.... I had to back the stud out just a half a turn to make the top of the nut flush.. then start torquing things in sequence.. goodluck... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 I loosen the cam bolt and crank bolt(optional) if CASE you drop the chain and need to take the front cover off) but just remember to torq back tight head bolts just remove them as normal mark the chain with a ink pen on the setting on the upper right. where the sprocket will have 1 2 or 3 there remember push the timming wedge deep down in there youll be able to fell it push on the tensioner putting the cam sprocket can be a bit tricky . I sometimes rotate the cam slightly 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 You don't have to be at TDC to change a head gasket. Just mark the chain and cam sprocket so it goes back together in the same alignment. If you do drop the chain and the timing cover has to come off to fix it, being at TDC won't help you. If you do set TDC #1... Make damn sure you don't turn the cam while the head is off. This is an interference engine. If either valve is close to full open on #4 you will bend them when you tighten the head bolts. There are two alignment dowels front and back manifold side that the head bolts go through. Find them and don't loose them. Set parking brake and block wheels and leave in highest gear. If the P brake doesn't work, take out of gear. This will make it harder to bump the engine by leaning on the truck. Leave intake and exhaust on the head. Saves a lot of work and breaking a stud off in the head. Get help lifting it off and keep fairly level and you can even leave the carb on too. 1 Quote Link to comment
d.p Posted May 7, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Why this article say to set the engine to TDC #1 when doing the HG? If I want the head checked after I get it off can I leave the cam in it? http://dimequarterly.blogspot.com/2011/09/tech-how-to-headgasket-replacement.html Quote Link to comment
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