Truck running like crap

[1lo620]

Ok I know this is generic but I will explain. My truck has picked up and nice sputter and popping issue. Was running decent and then just started sputtering and popping and overall running like crap. I have put new points timed it fuel pump filter etc

It has been into a shop and they didn't seem to improve the situation. It does have a 32/36 carb. Offenhauser intake. If that matters. I tried to get it to start today and it won't even start now. I am at a loss. Never had this problem with any of my 620. Any advice or info to check would be nice and appreciated. And not living in the NW anymore sucks. I could always count on Redeye and Hainz to help me out.

[willz]

Has the exhaust note changed at all? Check the compression on the cylinders? Maybe check the plugs to see how you're running

[Doctor510]

Point Gap if they're still there

[datzenmike]

Popping????? Like out the carb??? Check valve lash for a too tight one.

 

Check the distributor cap, rotor and wires.

 

Clean (file) or replace the points and condenser and properly gap them.

[1lo620]

It has new points and cap and rotor. I am thinking it might be wires and plugs. Next thing I check before I go internal. Because that involves a shop because I am not a mechanic.

[datzenmike]

Ok I know this is generic but I will explain. My truck has picked up and nice sputter and popping issue. Was running decent and then just started sputtering and popping and overall running like crap.

 

What popping? out the carb? Only under acceleration?

[1lo620]

Out of carb and only one I accelerate. The guy at shop said it be jetted wrong. It is a new carb.. But I have been driving it without issue. Then it just picked up this issue..

[datzenmike]

Tight valve.

[racerx]

How old is your ignition coil? Have u ohmed it out.

[banzai510(hainz)]

recheack the point gap. if point distributor.  Use a stock coil with ballast resisitor

 

maybe bushing is worn on the distributor

make sure wire screws are tight on wires and the point mounting screws otherwise it might go out of adjustment again.

 

 

simple fix

 

 

carbs rarely go bad esp if new. if this was running fine then you changed the points then that would be my 1st suspect.

 

if you loose a cylinder ck for a lash pad falling out

[1lo620]

Damn Hainz you and Datzenmike make it sound easy..lol. Be easier and nicer if I could bring to you Hainz.. But I don't live in the state anymore. I will do my best to trouble shoot and get it running again. Thanks for the help guys.. I may need more..

[distributorguy]

Sure sounds like a bad condenser to me.  

[banzai510(hainz)]

I assume you put a new condenser in also when you did this point swap but I opnly had one go bad when I drove points. Most were bushing worn out/gap

 

I think it will be the same as the last fix on your other truck point wasn't opening enough. I assume this is a different truck. but we swapped to a Pertronix

 

Point suck. But yes it is EZ but its a best guess from a keyboard trouble shooter.

 

 

where you move?

[datzenmike]

Always the chance of a bad new part. Just disconnect the condenser and try.

 

 

A tight intake that is not closing tight enough will let the cylinder fire back into the intake under load. Set to TDC compresasion on #1 cylinder, and try to wiggle the rockers on valve #1 #2  #3 and #5. Turn engine ONE turn back to TDC and check rockers #4 #6 #7 and #8. As long as you can wiggle the rocker very slightly there is some clearance and the valve will be closed. 

 

If you find one so tight you can't move it you should loosen it. Might as well check all the valves with a feeler gauge. There  is a tutorial by Mklotz and the tools needed wouldn't be over $20. No sense working 3 hours to pay a mechanic for 1/2 hour of his time to do this.

[banzai510(hainz)]

we did a valve adjust and I showed How to do a Point adjust if I remember right. on his chop top.

set point on lobe and then use slotted screw driver ,set gap, then lock down

 

but went Pertronix after that.never look back

[datzenmike]

Valves were adjusted?? Maybe a bad valve or seat then.

[banzai510(hainz)]

that was his other truck I did.

I don't know what 620 this one is

[1lo620]

It is my Blue show truck. It has a new condenser and points.. I gapped them etc. I took it to a shop and they did all that and it ran fine at shop then started doing it again. And haven't driven it since it doesn't go out in the winter. I want to go electronic ignition like my chop top. what should I get. Tired of points. I am going to put it back in the shop and have them look at all that stuff. I don't feel like I know what I am doing and I don't want to make it worse.

 

And Hainz I moved to Minneapolis last summer. Need a change and this is where we ended up. My son lives out here.

[banzai510(hainz)]

Cold out there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and hot in summer

[racerx]

Have u checked the ignition coil like i mentioned earlier. Issue u are having sounds like what happened to my datsun many moons ago

[distributorguy]

I went up to his place last fall and got the truck running.  It was a simple corrosion issue at the side screw on the distributor.  I suspect corrosion is setting in everywhere (it IS MN after all) and the engine grounding and numerous other maintenance things are plaguing the truck.  Parking in a damp underground garage makes it all worse.  I wish I had time to help out, but this is the insane season for rebuilding distributors.  130+ on the shelf waiting...  There is a local Datsun/Nissan club if you can find them.  I'm not sure if they attend the local Intermarque Import show or not?

http://www.intermarque.org/imm.kickoff.html

 

If I find time to paint the hood on the race truck, I may bring it up there.