SunRader78 Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 Hello Just wanted to post up an introduction. I just got home from picking up a 1978 Datsun 620 with a Sunrader camper on the back. 73,800 original miles, and yards of original 70 shag carpet throughout. My first order of business is tearing out all the carpet and then addressing the mechanicals and deferred maintenance. Based on the way it drove the 300 miles back to my house I'm thinking it will definitely need all new bushings in the front ( ball joints two? ) and shocks all around and probably new bearings in the rear axle. Speedo reads 5 miles an hour over. Is there any easy fix for this? Four speed manual transmission shifts smooth as butter actually do 65 on the freeway although this was quite scary with the loose feeling front end was worn out bushings. Rust is minimal some spots peeking through on the windshield frame and A-pillar but Rust is like a cancer so there's probably more hiding where I can't see. She spent life in eastern Oregon which is a pretty dry climate and by the condition of the fiberglass and per sellers report it was also housed in a pole barn away from the sun and rain. I'm not sure how to post pictures from my phone but I'll try to take some shots of the 620 Interestingly it's missing the toolkit and Jack with associated lug wrench; so I'll need to source those ASAP. Once I get a sense of needed parts im sure you will be see my "want to buy" posts. 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 http://community.ratsun.net/topic/54932-photobucket-ratsun/... give this a read and it will get your pictures posted. 5 mph out could be the tires. 620's came with 6.00 x 14" or 175/70R14 about 23.65" diameter. One inch either way would be about 5% out. If the 4 speed was replaced with one from a '79 620 (which has a different differential) it would read about 6% low. Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 Look at the carrier bearing holder on the driveshaft and you may find your "rear bearing" problem, plus u-joints. Welcome to the club! Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 25, 2017 Report Share Posted April 25, 2017 Lets see some pictures! Where are you located? Lost of the parts you need can be found by posting a wanted ad in the classifieds. Quote Link to comment
SunRader78 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 We ran into an old buddy from AK at a coffee shop in Bend on our way back from picking the truck up. Small World! Mismatched hood, pretty poor rattle can job of flat white. Also the passenger side door mirror began looking like it was going to rip off at 60 mph. When I checked it, it was very loose due to the sheet metal spiderweb cracking outward from the forward most mounting hole. Not sure if this is an issue with old thin sheet metal or if rust had weakened the metal. The original carpet is in pretty nice shape, also has cool Datsun floor mats. I'm thinking of ripping out the carpet and installing vinyl. Radio does not function, tuning nob will not change the channel. 1 Quote Link to comment
SunRader78 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Previous owners at some point have painted animals along the sides of the camper. Deer, Raccoon, Goose, and a Fish. Also one of the coolest factors with this rig, is that the entire rear wall will open up like a big rear hatch. Photos from the owner's manual. Enclosed porch option from 1978, long term plans include figuring out a way to sew up a similar design of my own. The Manufacturer on my Title is listed as "GARP" which I'm assuming is the Gardener Pacific Corp. Carpet everywhere. Time to tear it out! Floor feels fairly solid expect for an area right near the table mount, so I may end up gutting more of the camper interior than intended. Fortunately did not find any moisture or mold as I was stripping the first layers away, just a lot of sand, dirt, and spiders. 3 Quote Link to comment
AlexDeLarge Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Love these, I have never seen this particular one, mostly seen the Chinook. Glad you are going to bring it back to its glory. Cant wait to see what you do to the inside of the camper, keep us posted with pictures. Quote Link to comment
73dat Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Sorry that's really nice Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 That is spook sexy, nice Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Meant soooo sexy Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted April 26, 2017 Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Well I'm jealous 1 Quote Link to comment
SunRader78 Posted April 26, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2017 Lets see some pictures! Where are you located? Lost of the parts you need can be found by posting a wanted ad in the classifieds. I'm up in Hood River, OR Quote Link to comment
virginwidow Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 That is spook sexy, nice What racerx sed. When I was a kid I had a job (for a minnit) where they prepared these things for the show room -- the camper was already on, but other little things had to be done, everything checked out etc. They didn't pay squat, so I only helped prep 4 of them. I don't think ball joints happened until the '79 model, but others here know lots more than me That is spook sexy, nice Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 '78 and up got ball joints to replace the king pins, disc brakes on the front, internally regulated alternators and electronic ignition distributors. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Get this thing goin and see you at canby! The warning about not driving with the rear hatch open seems like more of a suggestion. Lol Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 If they didn't want you to drive with the hatch open they would have put an immobilizer switch on it. 2 Quote Link to comment
Jersey Posted April 27, 2017 Report Share Posted April 27, 2017 Well I'm jealous Ditto! Quote Link to comment
SunRader78 Posted April 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Get this thing goin and see you at canby! The warning about not driving with the rear hatch open seems like more of a suggestion. Lol What is Canby? I'm hoping it's some kind of Datsun Festival. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 What is Canby? I'm hoping it's some kind of Datsun Festival. Then you are in luck.. because that's exactly what it is. It's in canby oregon. Quote Link to comment
SunRader78 Posted April 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Here are some Photos of the Rear End Faux-Dually Set-up - and rear axle. The VIN starts with "EHL" which I think I read somewhere denotes a "heavy duty chassis". Rear leaf pack seems to have a helper spring on the top, and there is a sway-bar, from reading other threads was not standard on the '78 620. I'm definitely going to replace the rear shocks and sway-bar bushings, anything else I should consider to stabilize the handling? Any options on spring over/ axle lift vs shackle lift for the rear? Shocks? Rancho RS5000 seems to be the only one on RockAuto that advertise compatibility with lifted suspension. I had the RS5000 on a 1983 Toyota 4x4 and it rode incredibly rough (fine for me when I was 16 but now that I'm 35 I would like a little smoother ride). Thanks to all I've already learned from the Ratsun community, my first oil change was with Castrol GTX Diesel 15w40 with has the ZDDP Additave (and $10 cheaper at Napa than the normal Castrol GTX for the gallon), I also decided to add some extra ZDDP for good measure. Next on the list is Plugs, Wires, Air Filter. Previous owner put in an electric Car Quest fuel pump, the day before I picked it up. Gas Tank and fuel lines are probably dirty. Is there an efficient method for draining and cleaning the inside of the gas tank without dropping the whole tank? Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 There should be a drain bung on the gas tank. Unless the tank has been replaced. Just look at the bottom of it Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 28, 2017 Report Share Posted April 28, 2017 Very cool camper. One of the nicer ones I've seen on here. How much lift are you looking for? that Might influence what answers you get. Also, if you decide to remove that radio, let me know. I have a use for a broken stock radio. Quote Link to comment
SunRader78 Posted April 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 Duplicate Post. Quote Link to comment
SunRader78 Posted April 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2017 Very cool camper. One of the nicer ones I've seen on here. How much lift are you looking for? that Might influence what answers you get. Also, if you decide to remove that radio, let me know. I have a use for a broken stock radio. I'm not looking for anything more than a couple inches of lift, for added clearance on forest roads and to get over water bars. What-ever is reasonable with the stock front torsion bars cranked up a bit and the rear to match. My goal is increased ride height and comfort/drivability on the road. There should be a drain bung on the gas tank. Unless the tank has been replaced. Just look at the bottom of it It is the stock tank, so draining will be easy; I've read that flushing it with vinegar then water can be helpful. The truck runs okay, just trying to be meticulous with some easy preventive measures as it's been sitting for god knows how long. Quote Link to comment
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