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Problema con medidores de gasolina y tempreatura


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Tengo problemas con los marcadores de gasolina y temperatura, ambas agujas al poner el swich empiezan a subir, de repente dan un salto y bajan de una vez

 

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creo que el problema puede ser esta resistencia (creo que es eso).

 

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va en la parte tracera del tablero electrico.

 

mi pregunta es: como lo reemplazo con otra pieza electronica actual?, por que la he buscado y no la encuentro para cambiarla.

 

O si el problema radica en otra cosa?

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There is an all solid state replacement "How To" in this forum.  I seem to remember [not a guarantee, it's late at night.  SEARCH is your friend].2 or 5 US dollars should take care of your problem!I have kept my 1967 RL411 running all these years by being inventive and knowing just which early or late parts can be coerced to function well.  Good Luck!  Wishing you well!

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POR  FAVOR!  Can some reasonable bilingual Spanish/English conversant member please monitor this posting!  This member needs help and I would regret that a simple translation now and then would keep this car off the road!

 

It was easy enough to translate his post to give an answer, I'm sure he can translate the english back to spanish...

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Esto posiblemente te puede ayudar hermano.

 

 

 

Sorry no longer available! I'll update if I do another run of these.

 

 

Instrument panel voltage regulator. Will fit 68-69 510. Will also fit 311/411/520/521.

 

Sold state part that replaces the mechanical voltage regulator for the fuel and temp gauges. So if you have a roadster or early pickup or 510 with flaky or misreading temp and fuel gauges this may be a part to replace.

 

Direct plug in. Red wire is 12V+ in. White wire is 9V+ out to gauges. Ring terminal is 12V- (ground) and screws to the back of the gauge cluster.

 

$15 shipped in the US. Paypal address is: dguy210(at)gmail(dot)com

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The original part looks like a small metal box on the back of the cluster (68 510).

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From the side you can see the male spade connectors and ring terminal (right of photo).

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How the replacement part plugs in. This can be replaced on the 510 without pulling the dash or cluster. I don't know for the roadster or pickups if this is also true but probably.

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On the left is the old part on the right is the new one plugged in. Leads are left a bit long to make it easier to plug in to the dash cluster without pulling the cluster.

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Note: this is also posted on Ratsun, but due to the dumbass way the classifieds work no one ever sees it.

 

Email is dguy210(at)gmail(dot)com

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