Guidance and Updated l28e build

[918datsunz]

So I've been doing research day and night and have almost got my wife to hate me over this car here recently. I've steered away from my original build and plan to build a 3.0 non stroker. I ran all my numbers through the lengine calculator and everything should be good. I should result with about a 10.5:1 CR. So here's where I'm going now still over boring .040 to get the 3.0 displacement with flat top pistons. I also snagged a p79 head and it happens to be good. I plan on doing the shave .080 and shimmy and use my old n47 valves. Also still very mixed decisions on my carb set up I think really want triple mikunis or webers but that will stall out my build a bit,due to fundage. Also got my msa 3-2 header some 2 1/2in shorty race mufflers and patriot side pipes. Plan on getting a fidanza 10lb flywheel a harmonic dampener and a lot of assembly balancing. My cam also ships out Monday after some light delays. Last few things I was wondering what upgrades should I make on my timing Chains and tensioners. I've looked at the kameri stuff and a locking tensioner style. But I'm not sure... is the kameri stuff worth it? And another thing is it still worth mildly porting the head?

[Doctor510]

Might want to recheck you math,  no way you can get 3.0L with a .040" over bore, I did a 89.5mm bore and it did not get to 3.0L

[918datsunz]

Your right It will only be 2949.5 c.c. which comes out to a 2.95 litre so close enough for me lol it would take a 90mm ka piston to put you at 3015cc.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Triple Mikunis will set you back $3000 or more, unless you score a set from an unwitting seller who isn't aware of current values.

 

I might also reconsider the 10lb flywheel. Unless this is going to be a track day car, a flywheel that light will gain you nothing in every day driving.

 

I used to build a lot of 3.0L's when I worked at Rebello, and they all got KA pistons. A great street motor for sure.

[distributorguy]

I'll second the inline 6 with a 10 lb flywheel being a pain in the butt.  16 lbs is more ideal for a street car that may see some autocross or very occasional track days.  

 

Is there a triple SU/Hitachi setup using HS6s (1 3/4") for this engine?  That would be a hell of a lot of fun, and less than half the price of triple Webers.  You'd only lose out over 5000 rpm or so, and I doubt you'd really spend much time there anyway.  If you find used DCOEs, chances are good they are jetted all wrong, which is why they went up for sale.  Jetting per carb can very, very, very easily exceed $200.  Jetting on SUs is about $12 each.  

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The triple SU manifolds are custom. Mike Yoes at Rebello made one for his personal 3.0L powered 240Z about 15 years ago. He also bored the SU's. That car screamed.

 

There is another interesting carb that I would love to see on a L motor. It's the twin choke SU (I think it's called a DU6). They were optional on some Triumphs of the 60's and other cars too, but they ran in very short numbers. Someone was making them again, but I doubt they are cheap. Then there's the whole custom manifold thing to contend with.

[distributorguy]

They are as expensive as the triple Weber setup, per SU.  $$$$$   I haven't seen new ones.  

 

A set of twin HS8s would also be pretty radical on a stock manifold!  Austin Healeys used them, so they are not rare.  Joe Curto (.com) in NY probably has tons of them.   

[datzenmike]

Might want to recheck you math,  no way you can get 3.0L with a .040" over bore, I did a 89.5mm bore and it did not get to 3.0L

 

 

Your right It will only be 2949.5 c.c. which comes out to a 2.95 litre so close enough for me lol it would take a 90mm ka piston to put you at 3015cc.

 

The 3.0 uses an LD28 crank with an 84.5mm stroke. A 0.040" (1mm) over bore and an LD crank makes 3012cc displacement.

[918datsunz]

Ld28 cranks are also the price of Mayan gold along with the mikunis. I found a complete maxi diesel engine for 800 shipped but I don't think I'm going for it. And yea the mikuni/webers are too expensive for my set up. Thanks for the info too btw guys I'll go with a little heavier flywheel and save some money also should i use the ka style piston or will 280zx flat tops work fine??. All I got left to get now is pistons, cam tower shims, my head, and carbs to come in the mail. Then I will be posting pics of wheels in motion.

[918datsunz]

So I found some IDF carbs??? A triple set of 40 0r 44 dcoe carbs for 250 and then a complete intake linkage and gasket kit from England for about 450 shipped just wondering anyone know the quality of either of these items?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

IDF's are down draft carbs.

[918datsunz]

Well I picked up a set of su carbs on a n33 intake with linkage, heat shield and some other pieces for 190, and I'm sure need a good going through so wondering any rebuild kits recommended. Also got a msa 3-2 header and full 2.5 exhaust just for the black tubing, some shorty race mufflers to get my side pipes put on finally. Also should be getting my head soon. Just wondering has anyone on here done this head mod before?

[datzenmike]

Z Therapy? They exchange I think.

[Xnke]

 Also should be getting my head soon. Just wondering has anyone on here done this head mod before?

 

What head mod?

 

There are many out there...some work, some don't.

 

I drive a 12lb flywheel every day-but it sucks in traffic and does not improve horsepower or reliability.

 

LD28 cranks aren't that spendy, bud. You are just finding the ones people are selling for profit, not the ones in junkyards.

 

Don't cut the block to 89mm without a sonic check. Most F54 blocks won't go that big, and about half of the N42 blocks won't go that big...You need at least 0.120" wall thickness on the thin side, and you want 0.200" wall thickness at the thrust side. Thinner is asking for problems with ring seal and engine life.

[distributorguy]

The best SU rebuild kits are made by JoeCurto.com

The Z-therapy seals (that they are known for) need to be machined in, so you'd have to send them the castings to modify.  They work, but so do good bushings, which also require a special reamer.  The 2" HS8s don't need anything special as the bearings are split and peel in/out easily.   You likely have HS6s.  Before you get rebuild kits you need to verify if they are SU or Hitachi.  

[918datsunz]

 

This is the set I got

[distributorguy]

Those are Hitachis.  The float bowls are different from SUs.  Either way you'll love them.  Try Paltech for a rebuild or parts.  http://www.paltech1.com/id10.html

[918datsunz]

 

 

 

Also just picked all this up for 160 said there solex c40s.... And turns out I got a couple more pics and there solex c40 addhe so I think I got super lucky of an unaware seller.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Those are some old Solex's. I wouldn't bother with those.

 

The Dellorto's don't look to be in bad shape.

 

And for all you 4cyl guys, here's two sets of centerpull linkage that nobody's using...

[918datsunz]

From what I've been researching there not that bad really..... I hope lol other than there an earlier set. The only difference is there more of a base model performance carb less fine tuning adjustments. I've found a really decent supply of replacement parts and a lot of videos in japanese of them on numerous cars including datsun z cars. I'm thinking there not widely reputable here due to none of their information being in english. I think I'm ok with the idea of the simpler more basic carb and it would be a way cheaper triple carb setup. About 1500 cheaper vs webers or mikunis at roughly 350 a carb shipped.

[918datsunz]

So the Su's came in today and there mounted on the e46 intake I was hoping for n33 but couldn't really tell in his pictures. Any info on if this will make a big enough difference for it to be worth it to try and get a n33 intake? Or will this on be fine

[distributorguy]

I don't know much about those intakes, but I'm guessing the port size is the difference?  Port it out.  

[918datsunz]

For sure im doing as much port and polishing as possible. Also I plugged in a lot of numbers and got a rough horsepower estimate for my engine once it's built and tuned at 196-232hp. Does that sound reasonable? Also made up a build sheet so I have something to follow on paper. Good thing I did too let me know I'll have about 5-6k in my z after it's all said and done. Guaranteed my wife can't see that price tag lol

[918datsunz]

Another update on progress. Slight delays as the head has still not been delivered yet..... But still striving forward I have ran into a couple more problems and questions. I've read a lot on the 280zx distributor being a substantial upgrade in helping eliminate pinging.. but on the other hand have also read that the 280zx dizzy does not have the vacuum advance and will either retard/advance timing upwards of 8 degrees with having the efi deleted? So my question would be my stock 280z dizzy works just fine and with the extra help of a blaster 2 ignition coil would it be worth the swap or even possible? Another thing noticed my temp gauge does not work was thinking of just getting an aftermarket but would prefer the original to work any one know where I could get a schematic on how they work?? And thanks again for reading and all the help everyone.

[datzenmike]

Only the early zx distributor and not the turbo one. The NA through '81 with the E12-80 module....

 

 

 

The later E12 93 module uses the EFI to advance and retard the ignition so won't work on yours...

 

 

The early zx distributor and it's matching coil is what you need. Don't get carried away with those wizz-bang aftermarket coils that promise the world. They are designed to empty your pocket. The stock coil will will work properly and reliably. What this distributor and coil does is add a bit more spark and another layer or reliability. It does have vacuum advance.