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1200 Transmission swap, 56 to 60


KELMO

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So, I tried a search for this and after 6 pages i really came up with nothing.

 

I am swapping a 60A trans into my 1200 and almost all of the questions have been answered but one.  On the A14 motor that this trans came off of, there is a plate that goes inbetween the block and trans and it is about "1/8 thick.  On the 1200, there is just a thin dust plate that attaches to the front of the bellhousing and covers below where the block meets the bellhousing/ trans.  Both transmissions measure out to be the same length.  Once I had the original trans out of the 1200 i was thinking about using the thin dustshield that was matched to the 56 trans because it appears that some of the holes have been made larger in order for it to mount to the 60A.

 

Anyone have any ideas about this or possibly have run across this before?

IMG_20170418_104016612_zpscdaas6u6.jpg

The plate on the left side matches to the 56 4spd and the one on the right matches to the 60A 5spd.

 

IMG_20170418_103527638_HDR_zpsqcrtdyqg.j

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so, looks like use the thin dust plate, A12 flywheel, and short t/o collar.....Thanks.

 

 

 

Which is good because I didn't want to change ALL that shit around.  Also could not remember what it all looked like when I took it apart back in '11 or '12.

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Both of my coupes started life as autotrajics (at least that is my story and I'm sticking to it) so larger tunnel. The 60 series trans has a mounting point farther back on the tail case that I think is for a different type bracket

(stabilizer of sorts if you will) and this lines up very well with the body mount points.  The 56 series trans was installed by PO and pretty much had a U bolt over the top or the case and into the bracket that

holds the mount.  It was quite redneckian if I do say so myself.  Forgot to take an oic of it, so maybe later.  Trans was stabbed this morning and now just putting everything back together.

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Had to leave for a couple days and was not able to complete this.  Hoping to button it up in the next few days and will post the results (success or failure).

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Stock 1200 clutch.

 

Here is some curious info....from a Nissan quick reference book that I used in the late '80's.

1200 clutch disc: 30100-H8900

B210 clutch disc:

4spd 30100-H8900

5spd 30100-K0500

210 clutch disc: 30100-H8900

I did not look in the actual catalog that I have to verify, but I think something is screwy with the 210 listing.  It seems they should list a 4 and a 5spd clutch like the B210.

 

FWIW, the 5 spd I am using is out of a 210.

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Kelmo,

 

Right now I have a stock 60A 5 speed (non dog-leg) in my race coupe. When I went to the A15 I was still using the 56 series close ratio 4 speeds but as is well documented they have issues behind the larger engine. The motor uses a 14lb A12 flywheel, I'm using a standard A12 clutch disc with a 550kg pressure plate. I mix and match clutch discs based on thickness, over the last 30 years I've simply gone though my box of used clutch discs and install the best one. While I'll admit it's a bit hillbilly I've also never had a failure. Granted it's a race car the miles are low and I take off from a standstill very gently.

 

This summer (off season here in Vegas) I'll be going through the tranny as it's got quite a few miles on it (came out of a 140,000 mile street car). The rear seal is barely leaking so the flywheel needs to come off, at that time I may remove the engine plate to shed the few extra pounds fortunately I have both style of throughout bearings.

 

Tom

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So, life finally slowed down a bit so that I could continue this project.  Almost all buttoned up, got the clutch hydraulics bled this AM and adjusted the slave push rod.  Have good freeplay on the clutch pedal but no freeplay on the clutch operating arm that is pushed by the slave and in turn presses the release bearing onto the pressure plate.  It seems to me that I should have a bit of freeplay there.  Not having a little movement where the arm meets the slave push rod makes me think the release bearing is resting on the pressure plate tines.  I have left a slight amount of freeplay between the slave push rod and the sport where it (push rod) connects to the operating arm.

 

Here is me hoping I don't have to take this apart again.

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If you pull the clutch slave cylinder and you can't wiggle the clutch fork at all it will need to come apart. You don't need a lot,of play but there should be at least a millimeter or so. It may take a little effort to move the fork but you should be able to wiggle it. If not you'll need to pull it apart. It'll need the shorter throw out carrier or the engine plate that spaces the tranny back a few millimeters.

 

Tom

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Well poop, pretty sure I used the shorter t/o carrier so it sounds like I will need the plate that goes between block and trans.

 

 

 

 

05/12/17 edit: Took the lock nuts loose on the slave cyl push rod and am able to get movement. Pretty effing happy about that as I REALLY don't have the time to take it apart and reassemble again.

 

Thanks for the help ya'll.

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So I adjusted the slave cylinder and have no friction point when depressing/releasing the clutch pedal.......in other words, the clutch is not engaging.  I am thinking I need to use the long T/O collar to make this work properly.

 

Current setup:

A12 clutch and flywheel

short T/O collar

210 slave cyl

60A trans

 

Pulled 3 transmissions off the rack yesterday, not a one had the T/O collar.....what the hell did I do with em.

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Well, I am sure I have at least 2 of them somewhere in the shop.........somewhere.

 

Going to take another swing at this and see what happens.  At the very least I can get the process down with a step by step recording of what I do. And maybe I will do a write up here.

 

 

 

 

 

But don't hold your breath.

 

 

 

4 Datsuns and not a one of them I can drive :poop:.

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So, after some consideration and advice from a few folks on here that are way smarter than I am, its time to do this again.  So the following will be the bits to be used (for the first try)

 

A12 flywheel

Long T/O collar

A12 Clutch

Thin Bellhousing plate

 

I am 98% sure I used the short T/O collar which came of the 56A trans.  Whilst stumbling around the shop last night I found these(of course I was

looking for something completely different).

IMG_20170518_180625495_zpspcrtcvxt.jpg

The one on the left I had labeled 60A 5spd, which I think come out of this particular trans, the one on the right is labeled 79 210 60A 5spd and that car had the intermediate plate so.....

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So, pulled it apart and swapped the short T/O collar for the long T/O collar and still have no engagement.  I can slip it into gear at low RPM's and the wheels do move.  The next step will be to put the intermediate plate in between block and trans.

 

 

If nothing else, I am getting some experience removing and installing a transmission on a 1200

The collar on the far right is the one that was in the vehicle, the one on the far left is in it now.

IMG_20170524_151645171_HDR_zpsdgylbgez.j

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I think the answer is yes.  Uses the same drive shaft as the 56A.  Have a dogleg laying around here but this car is technically for the missus so I don't want to give here a trans that may confuse her while driving barefoot and trying to make me a sammich.

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I think the answer is yes.  Uses the same drive shaft as the 56A.

 

Then yes.   :thumbup:

 

Actually had a look at my buddy's 60A today and it is indeed the straight pattern 5 speed. And is definitely a bit less beefy than the 63A...

 

don't want to give here a trans that may confuse her will driving barefoot and trying to make me a sammich.

 

:rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:  :rofl:

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