Smplone Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 http://vid1368.photobucket.com/albums/ag198/smplone/video-1493604507_zpsgse5adpc.mp4 1 Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Thank you David for the opportunity and for referring this forum. Folks here have been outstanding in supporting my newbie questions. Since you are a collector in the same area, Where is a good place to look into for parts and such either salvage yard, personal member's collection or trusted website? It seems all I know would be craigslist nationwide and random websites. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 I have found that often when the fuel lines are empty the crank speed of the engine isn't enough to suck fuel from the tank. It just takes too long. A couple of tablespoons of gas down the carb will fire it off and do the trick. Once gas in in the pump you're good. Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted May 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 Yes first attempt was with gas in tank. But then found some cables above tank not connected to anything and just could not get any gas to gravity feed into new filter. So drained it and created gravity fed mock up. Did do the pump first then discovered hose beyond was dry rotted, do abandoned that and went straight to carb. I am curious though about this random wire coming from carb shown in picture. I have no clue where it goes or why its hanging out unconnected. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted May 1, 2017 Report Share Posted May 1, 2017 cant believe nobody said the answer is the choke heater. it needs a switchable 12volts to ppwer the coil so when it heats up the flap will open when warm and you get full open. it should be ez to start but have no high end as the falp is restricting the airflow. one can unscrew the 2 or 3 screws and turn the round plastic part so the flap is now open. It will be harder to start when cold but just pump the gas to inrich the circut datzen mike or others will will know the color of the wire from the truck you need for it to work. olddatsuns.com the tech section has most writeups you really need a RPM gauge? I don't have any myself an have 2 sidedraft equip 510s 2 Quote Link to comment
Digi7al Trauma Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 *reading though thread and slams into rust pictures* Mother of dog.... screw the lack of a tach (my 79 didnt even come with one either), gas tank? who cares? forget the wire hanging from the carb,.. because you will have some wires to disconnect here in a bit when you do SOMETHING with that frame. I mean am I just being cynical or should we worry about replacing that frame before worrying about a wire? Ill be over here chewing on my fingernails while following this. And looking for frames in the Washington dc area. Oh and welcome to rustson...i mean ratsun 2 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted May 7, 2017 Report Share Posted May 7, 2017 Idle cut solenoid is the Red wire. Choke heater is the Blue wire. Either is a switched 12 volt and will work for the choke heater. Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted May 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2017 I am working on a plan for the frame. Worrying about the wire is least of troubles but was more a curiosity question upon getting motor to start. I have someone coming over this week to help me form a plan for the frame. I look every night on craigs and random sites looking for a frame from a parts truck. My problem will be if I find something worth the swap...that I don't end up with two trucks I want to restore. B) 1 Quote Link to comment
Digi7al Trauma Posted May 11, 2017 Report Share Posted May 11, 2017 I am working on a plan for the frame. Worrying about the wire is least of troubles but was more a curiosity question upon getting motor to start. I have someone coming over this week to help me form a plan for the frame. I look every night on craigs and random sites looking for a frame from a parts truck. My problem will be if I find something worth the swap...that I don't end up with two trucks I want to restore. B)Got it. And yeah i get the point you made, why worry about the frame if the motor is shot as well? I have some ideas on the frame (yeah these are longshots but bear with me) 1- find and mod another datsun frame 2-build your own tube frame (this one is the biggest long shot, expensive and time consuming) 3- Buy a donor vehicle: eg bronco, blazer, s10, ranger. and bodyswap (still a bit out there, but can be done) edit: i just remembered you said you wanted to stay original when it comes to the frame, so my post is for the most part a waste of space. But ill see if i can fill in other stuff. 1. If it's a 4 speed manual, then why no rpm gauge? -Kind of common. There are a good number of vehicles during and before this time with no tach. "just shift by ear" or "by feel". You could always throw on an aftermarket tach... but some look TACKY... sorry.. 2. Do any of the features listed above give away it's history or modification timeline? -Its not stock, and no... dana 44's have been around since the 50's. Datzenmike already touched on this. 3. Frame is broken on both sides as it a raises towards engine... maybe pinch weld area. Where do I begin to look for replacement frames? I know I want to stay in the same year/family. Limited welding experience. Excellent in the bolt on department. -Even if you find a frame, it wont be "bolt on". Welding/cutting will need to be done for thetransaxle, front suspension, and maybe some body mounts... once again, the kingrat has that info. 4. Any links to threads about initial engine startup to do list prior to starting up something that has been sitting so long? -Check/replace fluids, check spark, clean points or get new dizzy rotor and cap, fresh fuel, new filters, make sure the webers bowls are filled/primed, check battery voltage. Could go futher like devarnishing the fuel tank ect... but its up to you how in depth you go, 5. Any links to threads about initial turn over of carburetor, radiator, electrical, transmission prior to first start? -Huh? like... how to check to see if these work or in serviceable shape? ah well shit,looks like 90% of my post is just wasted space. 1 Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted May 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2017 Digi7al Trauma, Thanks always for the continued support. My original intentions might have been to keep it all original, but quickly leaning towards Frankenstein-ing this thing, or at least the frame portion. I will look into your suggestions for possible frame swaps and keep reading up on other threads. Vehicle is about to go to Richmond barn to be stored for a year tops. Have to make room for a 79 trans am returning from body and paint soon. I have to get the interior done. You can follow its full resto thread on facebook - Giving Bubba The Bird https://www.facebook.com/GBB22/ Quote Link to comment
2wheel-lee Posted June 8, 2017 Report Share Posted June 8, 2017 I appreciate the honesty. But I am not afraid to work on this and learn along the way. I will stay the course of getting her something solid to stand on. I see you are working on getting rid of it on ebay. Good call. Though I doubt you'll be back here to see this unless you get another Datsun. Looks like there are still a lot of good parts on it for the right person. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-Datsun-Other-4X4-/282381070421?nma=true&si=hCOBZZnHw1Vdg1KqI1lKIZgjLDs%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 1976 Datsun 620 4x4 What are the make, model, year frames that are available to do a full swap? Any links to threads that have already been down this road? Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Why do you need to do a frame swap? What are your end goals? Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Frame is broken in too many places to salvage it. Easier to start over with something that may need a little work. Goal is to keep it the way it is but running on the street / trail. Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Your best bet is a stock frame. Is your truck already 4x4? My truck was frame swapped before I got it, to make use of a previously converted 4x4 frame. I ended up redoing all of the 4x4 related frame connections. None of the work is difficult, but it is a lot of work. You will need a welder, no matter how you go about it, if you want 4 wheel drive. They never came that way from the factory. . My build thread for my long answer. :) http://community.ratsun.net/topic/35996-1978-620-king-cab-4x4/ 1 Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Yes already 4x4. Yes keeping it 4x4. I can work with a 2WD frame and make modifications. Question is do i need to stay in the 76 range / Short bed or can i get away with other years / sizes / or even a toyota frame? There is an 82 datsun 2wd easily accessible now, wondering if it will work. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 I put a 1980 720 2 WD chassis under my 1966 520. Wayno has done several 720 chassis swaps on 520s and 521s. The 720 would be a good choice but I would find a 4x4 one so there is only the work of making the body fit the chassis and not having to swap all the 4x4 also. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 If you already have your drive train, I would look for a 72-77 standard cab frame. This will be a direct replacement and you will only require modifications to fit the front springs and tcase.The 1980 720 will require some body mount modifications, but nothing too crazy if you are fine with doing the drive train work. A 720 4x4 IFS frame would be a good option if you don't already have a 4x4 with a solid axle. Of course keeping the solid axle is my personal preference. :) 2 Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Yes have the solid axle already and motor runs great for that matter. Just need new frame. I will take your advice and look for anything 72-77 / 620-720 / 2wd-4wd. Just so I know for sure, no one recommends the 82 frame that is readily accessible now? 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Don't you already have a post on this????? http://community.ratsun.net/topic/71838-new-620-ownership-startup-questions/page-1 Can we not have just the one and add this to it? By clicking on the first post and selecting the full editor you can change the title. 2 Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 Original post was about startup and general inquiry. It might have morphed into some of the frame issues. I can delete the first one if necessary. I am looking to gather information about frame swaps, frame suggestions, frames all. 1 Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 That is not my post, probably from previous owner. I am on the fence of selling / continuing. 1 Quote Link to comment
]2eDeYe Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 I was wondering how this got to be 3 pages so fast :lol: After seeing the pictures in the merged thread and your approximate location. I say get the 82 frame and start by swapping the suspension and axles first. then swap the motor, trans and transfer case. After that swap the body on. Basically start with the bare 720 frame and build from the ground up. :) 2 Quote Link to comment
Smplone Posted June 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 This is the article on the one that is accessible. Is it more trouble than its worth to make this a viable option for frame swap? https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto/6175838012.html 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 14, 2017 Report Share Posted June 14, 2017 You have a reg cab short wheelbase and that looks the same so probably a match. If it runs good, think about swapping in the 4x4 components and keeping the engine/trans. Larger displacement, better disc brakes. Maybe keep the body and sell yours. 2 Quote Link to comment
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