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1972 510 Build VG30ET Swap


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I ran my finger over the cylinder mark and could feel it catch.  Also just running a bare finger over it, I could feel a sliiiiiiight raise.  The top of the cylinder is not raised, just discolored.  

 

So lap at home, and hone at home?  If I don't get the desired results go to a shop.  Im going to look into lapping some more.  

 

Looks like the project is under budget again!  Im torn between getting the 510 on the road and working on a camping rig, only got so much $$$ so anything I can do to keep pushing on the Datsun is a WIN!

 

Any suggestions for what to look at for a rebuild kit (piston rings, rod and crank bearings, gaskets, and anything else that should be included)?  Websites, brands, cost?  I am going to pull the info from my bearings, and make sure everything was set up stock.

 

Thanks for merging dem posts!  You guys are a big help, making me look like I know what im doing. 

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I ran my finger over the cylinder mark and could feel it catch.  Also just running a bare finger over it, I could feel a sliiiiiiight raise.  The top of the cylinder is not raised, just discolored.  

 

So lap at home, and hone at home?  If I don't get the desired results go to a shop.  Im going to look into lapping some more.  

 

FWIW, lap the valves yourself. Its a very easy job to do. The following link is a good article and this is how I do my cylinder heads.

 

http://www.restore-an-old-car.com/how-to-lap-valves.html

 

As far as the bore goes, its not a perfect science diagnosing via picture but id say you will get away with just honing the block. I always get mine done by the machine shop as I can never get as good a cross hatch pattern when doing it at home. Honing for RW is one of the few dark arts I havent been able to get right.

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****UPDATE****

 

Flex hone and lapping gear is on the way.  I should have an idea how the machine work is looking come this weekend.

 

Are new valve springs necessary if I pull valves, is now the time?  Ill post pictures and surely have more questions soon.  

 

 

 

But the fun part.  I figured out how to open my trunk!  Yeah, turns out it is the ignition key.... I thought the small key I got was for the trunk, guess I never tried the big one.  Anyways, guess what this fool just found.

 

4x CV's

Valve Covers

Drive Line

Covers and extra cam pulleys

Electric radiator fan

New Generic Wire Harness

Clutch goodies

Intake manifold with EGR gone, fantastic!  Can anyone tell from the pic if these are upgraded injectors?

Headers, home made, and literally hammered to fit.

Modified Oil Pan, for the 510.  

Blow off Valve

51T/32 Turbo, is this thing for a GM diesel?  It is already hooked into the old VG headers, so this is plug and play.  With an inter-cooler what kind of tire can I put down with this thing?

 

Im rolling the 510 out into the driveway to look at all the parts, and work on heads/block in the garage.  I think it is time to start taking inventory of what i have, clearly.

 

Can anyone tell if this is an upgraded injector?

 

20170418_180401_zpsk5dclego.jpg

 

20170418_180358_zpsrr1unycl.jpg20170418_180032_zps4gv5v35f.jpg

 

What is next to the blow off?  

 

20170418_180022_zpsdykadck1.jpg

 

Upgraded and stock turbo

 

20170418_180012_zpscehvvs2f.jpg

 

Intake with EGR gone

 

 

20170418_180007_zpsqjsyc3ye.jpg

 

Top shelf fab work.  All looks like it will work fine!

 

20170418_175954_zpsw45bxtqa.jpg20170418_175936_zpserqmtxdj.jpg20170418_175933_zpsghsvofyw.jpg

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The block and heads are at the machinist.  I wasn't going to leave the heads, but he wanted $150 to go through both of em, + any parts needed.  Happy to pay that to not lap them myself.  For cleaning the block, bore, and heads, I am looking at ~$400 in work.  

 

I found pistons and rods in more 510 stuff.  I thought they were going to work, but they are 87mm, so they appear stock (right?).  I was told to go 20 over, these look like a second set of stock pistons.  

 

20170424_185020_zpspkak1vti.jpg

87mm is stock, so I need to order new ones?

 

 

I am not looking for forged/fancy, just functional for this build.  Going to start looking, but it seems that the rebuild can be bought for ~$250 with pistons, rings, seals.  Anyone had better luck piecing rebuild kits together, or just using a single source?

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Clegg is local to me. I've had machine work done there as well as ordered engine kits. Their stuff is fine, except check what brand head gaskets are in the kit and see if they offer an upgrade.

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i didnt think this thread was gonna get any traction but here it goes lol!

 

87mm is stock for pistions, those pictired kinda look like turbo pistions tho....i dont know if your rebuilding a turbo motor or going na/t 

 

and that aluminum thingy is a FPR

 

oil pan looks good but that manifold.......make shure there aint no leaks

 

injectors are older type 84-85 top feed.....dont look upgraded just clean

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Not traction?!?!  So far im just taking pictures, I really haven't done anything yet.... But soon. 

 

Everyone has been super helpful (thanks 510 and VG guys!!!), and until I run out of money Im pushing this VG swap forward!!!

 

 

This is a VG30ET swap.  I ordered a Complete engine rebuilt kit from Clegg.  It has pistons (30 over, they had no 20 over pistons) gaskets, seals, oil pump, rings.  There is a link to my Kit above.  Clegg said they are running out of these kits, so if you need one now is the time.

 

Rebuild kit will be here early next week.  Taking the pistons to the machinist as soon as I have them.  He has the heads and block now. 

 

Im fine with things looking hammered, just not leaking.  Ill check as I get closer, I have 2x intakes, and a lot of goodies to figure out how to hook up.  This is my first turbo engine, so there will be a very steep learning curve once the engine is all put together. 

 

Next few weeks will be putting the engine and trans together.  Ill post pictures of the progress as it happens.  

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Good news everyone!

 

Heads and block are in my freshly organized and set up shop!  Check out some pics!

 

My goal is to do things right, do them once, and take my time.  I have limited experience, but I am certain being clean and organized will be a game changer.  

 

Block

Bored 30 over

New Freeze Plugs

Cleaned/Boiled

mating surface cleaned up

Snapped exhaust manifold bolts removed

 

 

Heads

Cleaned

Gone through

New Valve Seals

Mating surface cleaned up

 

Rods and Pistons

New Pistons

Refurbished Rods

Pressed and ready to go

 

Rebuild kit           $429

Press fit Rods     $165 (could not find a kit with floating pistons)

Machine Work    $460

Total                    $1,054

 

"Remaining Budget" $246

 

Looks like Ill be over budget by the time I start wiring and plumbing this thing in.  But for the time being I'm looking good.  

 

Ill post some updates as the block starts to go together.  

 

 

 

 

IMG_0181_zpsmdv67xpa.jpg

IMG_0186_zpsxtqeui2q.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Alright Alright,

 

Truck was in the garage for a while, but my space is open and time to start assembling the block.  Last night replaced the oil pump and reattached the crank belt sprocket.  Next step should be to set the crank into the block, and start putting rings on pistons and dropping them in.  Which brings me to my next question.

 

 

IMG_0764_zpsy6q0r0cj.jpg

 

Was looking at my pistons/rods and realized that I do not have rods labeled 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.  My rods are numbered 2, 2, 5, 4, 5, 6.  Does that matter in a VG30ET?  Or can I just orient the piston nipple to the front and call it all good?  At this point I bought refurbished rods, and do not want to purchase more.  Will these work?

 

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q434/Hood_Squirrel/Engine%20Rebuild/IMG_0761_zpsuuohkyhq.jpg

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So these aren't the rods from the engine...

My guess is the set of rods you bought came from more than one engine... most engine builders would stamp the rod upon removal to put it back where it come from.... if these are reconditioned those stamps are Irrelevant.... the specs are what you would care about...

If I was assembling the motor i would restamp the rods with the duplicate number with the missing numbers, and put in appropriate bore... just incase it ever comes apart again....

Orient them how ever the book says

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Ok just because I don't know and I said to just put in the numbered bore....

Are all the piston tops the same?...

When I built my l series engine and I actually had left and right pistons because of valve reliefs....

I don't know if that's a factor with your pistons or a vg motor..

If it matters the piston will dictate location over those numbers....

Again just posting to be safe....

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Crash,

 

That is correct.  Those are not the rods from the engine, I had to get new rods to work with my new pistons after boring the cylinders.  

 

From what I have read PISTON orientation is important (dimple towards the front), it sounds like although everyone would prefer rods be installed correct, it is not critical.  Although I am not sure, if anyone has heard of rods orientation being an issue please let me know before this all goes in.  

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Good timing crash.  I think you posted this at the same time my neighbor was saying "Hey, maybe just lay the new pistons and rods next to the old ones".  After we checked with dimple forward we realized all the oilers matched, and everything looked good.  Going to go ahead and line up oilers and not worry about the numbers (unless I can put 1 or 2 in the right place)

 

Plastigage on the crank ~0.0015 clearance on the main bearings.  Crank is in, and feels nice and smooth.  Next stop PISTON TOWN!

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Glad it's working out....

Watch out with the pistons.... I was using assembly lube and it's a little sticky.... it pulled one of the bearing halfs off the rod while I was trying to install the cap.... I got lucky and noticed...

 

Just make sure the bearings stay in place and I would rotate the engine as you finish each one and make sure no binding...

Take your time and dont force anything ...

Can't wait to see it in the car.....

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  • 2 weeks later...

HELP!

 

Long story short.  Putting pistons in to check clearance with Plastigage.  I wasn't paying close enough attention and while using a ring compressor tool to put the rings in the top oiler ring slipped around the piston, rubbing against the cylinder wall.  I got the piston in a little and noticed the damage to the cylinder wall.  

 

In may haste I used the crank to knock the piston rod back out (I know dumb, but I couldn't get to the rod end with where the crank was, and didn't think to take the crank off, and was a little paniced).  Ahhhh, dumb.  But the rod was damaged as well.

 

Cylinder wall.  Abrasion feels very slight and I think it can be smoothed out.  I can still see most of the machine work etching.  Thoughts?

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q434/Hood_Squirrel/Engine%20Rebuild/unnamed%202_zpsrrdcmgnj.jpg

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q434/Hood_Squirrel/Engine%20Rebuild/unnamed%201_zpsammbkdxj.jpg

 

Rod.  Can smooth out damage, but concerned that this means I need a new rod.  Or maybe 6.... Which is expensive.  Thoughts?

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q434/Hood_Squirrel/Engine%20Rebuild/unnamed_zpsymmiwajz.jpg

http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q434/Hood_Squirrel/Engine%20Rebuild/unnamed%203_zpsbjluffml.jpg

 

Pictures are loaded to Photobucket link.  I haven't figured out a way to host 3rd party images since Photobucket stopped hosting.....

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