Jump to content


Photo

72 620 barn find


  • Please log in to reply
53 replies to this topic

#21 Anonymous Waffle

Anonymous Waffle

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 429 posts
  • Location:California, United States
  • Cars:76' 620 L.B.

Posted 01 July 2017 - 12:26 PM

Pcv pipe. There should be a pipe that protrudes out of the block under the intake, and a bended hose connects to the intake. In the second photo just under your fingertips, you can see the pcv pipe to the block. Presuming it's a stock l16.

Is the hose connected to a different location or did you take it off to show it to us?


73%20Datsun%20510_zpsboqn0gll.png


#22 jacobbell69

jacobbell69

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Bowling Green, Kentucky
  • Cars:01 Xterra, 03 Accord, 72 620

Posted 01 July 2017 - 12:37 PM

Pcv pipe. There should be a pipe that protrudes out of the block under the intake, and a bended hose connects to the intake. In the second photo just under your fingertips, you can see the pcv pipe to the block. Presuming it's a stock l16.

Is the hose connected to a different location or did you take it off to show it to us?

yes in the second photo im showing where the hose went to, but it's a 1" diameter. yes stock l16. how would i connect the hose to it without hacking the hose up like the last guy did. i took off the hose to show you where it was going to.



#23 Anonymous Waffle

Anonymous Waffle

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 429 posts
  • Location:California, United States
  • Cars:76' 620 L.B.

Posted 01 July 2017 - 12:43 PM

yes in the second photo im showing where the hose went to, but it's a 1" diameter. yes stock l16. how would i connect the hose to it without hacking the hose up like the last guy did. i took off the hose to show you where it was going to.

I can't upload a picture right now, but I assume you need this hose 

 

http://www.new-datsu...ages/52166a.jpg

 

I don't think you can find that part easily anymore, the easiest way I found was to combine a couple of hoses and adapters together to make the piece. Nothing crazy, it won't be under pressure or anything like that.


73%20Datsun%20510_zpsboqn0gll.png


#24 jacobbell69

jacobbell69

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Bowling Green, Kentucky
  • Cars:01 Xterra, 03 Accord, 72 620

Posted 01 July 2017 - 12:47 PM

I can't upload a picture right now, but I assume you need this hose 

 

http://www.new-datsu...ages/52166a.jpg

 

I don't think you can find that part easily anymore, the easiest way I found was to combine a couple of hoses and adapters together to make the piece. Nothing crazy, it won't be under pressure or anything like that.

you the man! i might look for some kind of adapter. ive been asking a few people and they came up blank as to why they would be connected but different size. any idea on part number for this hose? update:found part number thanks!



#25 Seeker > 620 KC

Seeker > 620 KC

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 576 posts
  • Location:San Diego
  • Cars:1979 620 KC

Posted 03 July 2017 - 08:19 AM

Wow! What a score. And so original.

 

I'm fascinated by the dealer welding his name into the bumper for advertising. Never seen it before. Maybe a local tradition? Farming or construction tradition? I know rear bumpers are not in fashion all the time, but I'd sure keep that if I were you. The last 620 I bought, the PO's daughter was learning to drive, threw it in reverse and it a cinder block wall. The bumper brackets folded up like paper clips. The bumper stayed straight, and the sheet metal was never touched. I saved the bumper and am putting it on my current truck.  

 

F.Y.I. At our dealership we always installed the mirrors opposite way. Never knew why. The way yours are mounted are similar to a military patch chevron.  

 

Congrats on a great purchase.



#26 Z-train

Z-train

    Datsun Mechanic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,194 posts
  • Location:Tucson
  • Cars:72 240Z, 1977 810 Wagon & a 620

Posted 03 July 2017 - 09:04 AM

All 620's until something like 77 built trucks had bed mounted fuel tanks. After that they are frame mounted. So any bed mounted 620 tank will work for you without modifying anything. If you get a later tank it isn't that different and should only require minimal mods to mounting brackets . I think the later tanks just have more lines coming out for emission evaporator and carbon canister stuff

Nice score. I hope it cleans up good for you.


this is correct.
Dear God,
We'll give you Justin Beiber,if you'll give us Dio back.

#27 Z-train

Z-train

    Datsun Mechanic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,194 posts
  • Location:Tucson
  • Cars:72 240Z, 1977 810 Wagon & a 620

Posted 03 July 2017 - 09:09 AM

Wow! What a score. And so original.
 
I'm fascinated by the dealer welding his name into the bumper for advertising. Never seen it before.

I've seen it here in the Southwest.It was common at one point.
Dear God,
We'll give you Justin Beiber,if you'll give us Dio back.

#28 jacobbell69

jacobbell69

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Bowling Green, Kentucky
  • Cars:01 Xterra, 03 Accord, 72 620

Posted 10 July 2017 - 06:06 AM

Wow! What a score. And so original.

 

I'm fascinated by the dealer welding his name into the bumper for advertising. Never seen it before. Maybe a local tradition? Farming or construction tradition? I know rear bumpers are not in fashion all the time, but I'd sure keep that if I were you. The last 620 I bought, the PO's daughter was learning to drive, threw it in reverse and it a cinder block wall. The bumper brackets folded up like paper clips. The bumper stayed straight, and the sheet metal was never touched. I saved the bumper and am putting it on my current truck.  

 

F.Y.I. At our dealership we always installed the mirrors opposite way. Never knew why. The way yours are mounted are similar to a military patch chevron.  

 

Congrats on a great purchase.

Thanks! I seen another 620 on Facebook for sale, it was to far gone and to new to be of any use for parts on mine. It also had a dealer's name welded on the bumper. I will for sure keep mine but it's going in my back room!



#29 jacobbell69

jacobbell69

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Bowling Green, Kentucky
  • Cars:01 Xterra, 03 Accord, 72 620

Posted 18 July 2017 - 01:27 PM

alright my friends here's an update.

got the front brakes done, was waiting on brake adjusters from Thailand. One day before they got here i found them on rockauto under 'misc'. Which is why I couldn't find them a couple months ago.

Need to complete the rear, these drums require about 30 min of beating on before they release the goodies. and by goodies i mean spiders!

I have now dropped the fuel tank and it doesn't look as bad as i thought. luckily i did not have to pull the bed to get the tank off. i also cleaned up the interior a bit and super cleaned the windows. I also replaced the brake master and the clutch master and slave. its not pushing the fork enough though, i'm thinking flywheel maybe seized? someone suggested i try and start the truck in first gear to break everything free, before i attempt that however i will need fully working brakes. i also found a GREAT condition bench seat in a local junkyard out of a 93 hardbody. $50 and its all mine. anyone have any tips on making it fit in my truck? crossing my fingers that it bolts up(probably not though)

also found some 16x8 wheels from a different junkyard i'm thinking about grabbing, they're eagle alloys. they were on an 01 frontier. i also found some 18x8 titan wheels. let me know which ones i should go with. i also fixed my pcv valve hose issue with some 1" to 3/4" adapter from home depot, it was a tad smaller than advertised so i was able to get my 5/8 hose onto the 3/4 end and hose clamp the 1" end as it was pretty loose. i bought a new weber carb but have not put it on yet. i know little about carbs so waiting on him to come over one weekend to install. thanks everyone for the help! also what size tires should i run with the corresponding wheels? i will lowering this thing a few inches. i do not want any stretched tires however.



#30 jacobbell69

jacobbell69

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Bowling Green, Kentucky
  • Cars:01 Xterra, 03 Accord, 72 620

Posted 18 July 2017 - 01:32 PM

IMG_7323_zpstbeeuhpn.jpg

titan wheels

 

IMG_7286_zps2jhurj5e.jpg

eagle alloys

 

IMG_7208_zps1a2owrmt.jpg

cleaned off 20 years of barn storage

 

IMG_7327_zps47j3hftg.jpg

my new bench seat

 

IMG_7202_zpshrrh7qf9.jpg

when i removed the brake master i saw this lovely substance waiting for me

 

IMG_7311_zpscrbfv1vt.jpg

passenger side brake shoe

 

IMG_7314_zpsgy6hcr9r.jpg

what came out of my fuel tank

 

IMG_7313_zpslstwbo3e.jpg

my freshly removed fuel tank, waiting on my new pressure washer in the mail to clean this puppy off



#31 Crashtd420

Crashtd420

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,522 posts
  • Location:Massachusetts
  • Cars:1972 Datsun 521

Posted 18 July 2017 - 01:54 PM

The first gear trick would work if the clutch rusted to the fly wheel or pressure plate, but I think you still need the clutch slave and master to be working first before you tried. Otherwise your just gonna be driving around in first, you need the pressure plate to open and close.
How far is the clutch fork moving? If the pedal is stiff instantly and doesn't move the clutch fork I would say something is stuck...
If the clutch fork barely moves and pedal goes to floor I would say air in the master...
As far as the clutch did you bench bleed it.?.. I found out by doing it with a vacume bleed at the slave and with a friend on the pedal and no success....
Bleeding right at the master with a short line needs to be done first or your chasing your tail... same for the brake master if new.....

#32 jacobbell69

jacobbell69

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Bowling Green, Kentucky
  • Cars:01 Xterra, 03 Accord, 72 620

Posted 18 July 2017 - 02:10 PM

The first gear trick would work if the clutch rusted to the fly wheel or pressure plate, but I think you still need the clutch slave and master to be working first before you tried. Otherwise your just gonna be driving around in first, you need the pressure plate to open and close.
How far is the clutch fork moving? If the pedal is stiff instantly and doesn't move the clutch fork I would say something is stuck...
If the clutch fork barely moves and pedal goes to floor I would say air in the master...
As far as the clutch did you bench bleed it.?.. I found out by doing it with a vacume bleed at the slave and with a friend on the pedal and no success....
Bleeding right at the master with a short line needs to be done first or your chasing your tail... same for the brake master if new.....

i struggled to bleed it at first, then removed line and put my finger over the hole and once it started pumping out brake fluid i reattached and was successfully able to get the slave bled. no air in system for sure, however i will mess with the master cylinder where it mounts to the pedal, there are a couple adjustment points i need to tweak i believe as the pedal goes to floor too easily. slave pushes the fork maybe half an inch id say. 



#33 Crashtd420

Crashtd420

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,522 posts
  • Location:Massachusetts
  • Cars:1972 Datsun 521

Posted 18 July 2017 - 02:58 PM

Well if you have adjustments start there, do you have any adjustments with the push rod on the slave? Make sure there is not to much free play... Maybe it's not returning enough for full stroke..

When you disconnected the line was it at the master? Could you get a solid pedal if you blocked the output of the master with your finger?.... do you remember?

#34 jacobbell69

jacobbell69

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Bowling Green, Kentucky
  • Cars:01 Xterra, 03 Accord, 72 620

Posted 19 July 2017 - 07:49 AM

Well if you have adjustments start there, do you have any adjustments with the push rod on the slave? Make sure there is not to much free play... Maybe it's not returning enough for full stroke..

When you disconnected the line was it at the master? Could you get a solid pedal if you blocked the output of the master with your finger?.... do you remember?

pedal never got solid throughout the bleeding process. 



#35 Crashtd420

Crashtd420

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,522 posts
  • Location:Massachusetts
  • Cars:1972 Datsun 521

Posted 19 July 2017 - 08:04 AM

Personally sounds like the master still has a little air in it.... when I did mine I could pump fluid and no air bubbles and still no clutch ....

Try one more this way.....
Disconnect line ...
Make a small line to pump fluid to a catch bucket....
Put the pedal to the floor
Block the line with your finger.
Release pedal with finger still blocking line.
The master should draw in fluid ...
Repeat ....
Now with the pedal up You should be able to hold your finger over the line and have a rock solid pedal, no movement....
Reconnect line,re bleed at the slave and you should be good.....

#36 distributorguy

distributorguy

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,069 posts
  • Location:Metropolis, MN
  • Cars:77 Datsun 620, 73 Datsun 620

Posted 19 July 2017 - 08:19 AM

Just buy all new parts on Rockauto.  I think the good slave cylinders are $11, hose $6, Master $14.  Look at the photos and make sure you get the right one or the hose will hit the torsion bar.  

 

It should bleed easy, unless you're sucking air back in from pores in the bore or some other issue.  Let it gravity bleed for a while - open bleeder and keep topping off the master.  Pump it up several times, then repeat tomorrow and you're done.  But you need to be moving the pressure plate or you won't get the air out of the slave.  



#37 Crashtd420

Crashtd420

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,522 posts
  • Location:Massachusetts
  • Cars:1972 Datsun 521

Posted 19 July 2017 - 08:30 AM

alright my friends here's an update.
got the front brakes done, I also replaced the brake master and the clutch master and slave. its not pushing the fork enough though,.



#38 jacobbell69

jacobbell69

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Bowling Green, Kentucky
  • Cars:01 Xterra, 03 Accord, 72 620

Posted 19 July 2017 - 09:23 AM

yeah i replaced clutch hose, slave, and master. i think maybe the master is bad. i tried bleeding it for like 30 min before removing the line and holding my finger over the hole to create vacuum. maybe i ruined the seals in it? ill fiddle with it this weekend!



#39 Crashtd420

Crashtd420

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,522 posts
  • Location:Massachusetts
  • Cars:1972 Datsun 521

Posted 19 July 2017 - 09:41 AM


Doubt you ruined the seals, they should be able to handle bleeding, it has to over come the pressure of moving the pressure plate.. maybe it could be bad...

But I had all the same symptoms when I put my new master and slave on....
As I said I tried vacume bleeding, someone working the pedal and even gravity feeding and nothing worked...
Bench bleeding right at the master is neccesary, install instructions even say it.... i dont understand it but i proved it to myself it is a necessary step...

Where did you remove the line from?
And what was your sequence with the pedal and your finger....
You should be able to get a solid pedal at the master with your finger blocking the output and pressing the pedal....
Try the steps I suggested....

#40 jacobbell69

jacobbell69

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 27 posts
  • Location:Bowling Green, Kentucky
  • Cars:01 Xterra, 03 Accord, 72 620

Posted 19 July 2017 - 10:55 AM

Doubt you ruined the seals, they should be able to handle bleeding, it has to over come the pressure of moving the pressure plate.. maybe it could be bad...

But I had all the same symptoms when I put my new master and slave on....
As I said I tried vacume bleeding, someone working the pedal and even gravity feeding and nothing worked...
Bench bleeding right at the master is neccesary, install instructions even say it.... i dont understand it but i proved it to myself it is a necessary step...

Where did you remove the line from?
And what was your sequence with the pedal and your finger....
You should be able to get a solid pedal at the master with your finger blocking the output and pressing the pedal....
Try the steps I suggested....

i removed the line on the master cyl. i put my finger over the hole, pedal in, remove finger, put finger back on, release pedal, push pedal back in, release finger, put finger back, release pedal. repeated three times before it start squirting fluid out. then i reconnected and had no problem getting fluid down to the slave to bleed it there. filled the master cyl reservoir 3 times with fluid, never running it dry however. so im pretty sure there is no air. i believe the issue with the weak pedal and the fork not moving far enough is because like you said, not going full stroke. ill mess with the adjustments this weekend