Dguy210 Posted July 27, 2017 Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 Well damn, nice work there. You basically made a 510 flipped crossmember there. Are you running a swaybar? I'd think a KA 510 or maybe even a 1200 swaybar might fit. Adaptor plate looks easy too. This definitely opens up the possibility of different oil pans too. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted July 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 Yeah, it's practically a flipped crossmember. However, it's small diameter and it sits a little further back, that way I can lower the engine and also push it back a little. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 its in..... 3 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 You're going to need spoilers to keep this thing on the road.... 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted August 20, 2017 Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Looks great!! Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 Looks great!! Thanks. You're going to need spoilers to keep this thing on the road.... Considering I totalled my dual cam KA swapped A10..... I learned my lesson. NO cut springs this time and MUST have proper brakes and tire setup (unlike my A10) Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2017 You're going to need spoilers to keep this thing on the road.... The only thing I'm concerned about is the rear end blowing up. Still has the little H150. Considering going Ford 8". Quote Link to comment
Sastis Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 If you ever decide to go ka, I like to buy the lz engine from you. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 If you ever decide to go ka, I like to buy the lz engine from you. Thanks, but I've had a half of dozen KAs... Not sure I'll ever go back Quote Link to comment
Sastis Posted August 21, 2017 Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 Thanks, but I've had a half of dozen KAs... Not sure I'll ever go back if you go a different route. I call dips. PS. There is another 4dr b210 for sell in SeaTac if you ever want another one. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2017 if you go a different route. I call dips. PS. There is another 4dr b210 for sell in SeaTac if you ever want another one. link to ad? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 The only thing I'm concerned about is the rear end blowing up. Still has the little H150. It'll handle just about anything a non-turbo L can throw at it. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted August 23, 2017 Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 The only thing I'm concerned about is the rear end blowing up. Still has the little H150. Considering going Ford 8". Also, 68-72 510 wagon H190 is bulletproof and a super easy swap. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted August 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2017 Thanks! Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 For some reason I haven't updated this thread in a while. I hope that my research / work helps others in the future. Here's a few facts about swapping in an L20 (lz23 in my case...) into a "B"....... - PL510 (1968-'72) crossmember DOES bolt into a B210 without issue, I also used B210 lower control arms w/ the 510 xmember. This works and has no issues. - L series engine with sidedraft carbs WILL fit. Note I have a 2 pc. side draft intake manifold that doesn't go out straight out from the head, but instead has a step-up (if that doesn't make sense, refer to pics in previous posts). - L series exhaust manifold DOES NOT properly fit (kind of...) when using a 510 crossmember. The engine sits too far forward and the manifold down pipe will interfere with the steering arm. I'm using a square port manifold so a combination of a different manifold may work. I also tried to use the short tube header offered on ebay. This may be usable if you cut the collector short. You'll need to play with this a bit. - When using a 510 xmember with factory mounts and rubber isolaters, the engine sits approximately 5" forward from the firewall. This is problematic if plans are to race or autocross the car. The engine has too much over hang on the front struts, potentially causing over steer or weight distribution issues. a. No room for a large radiator b. no room for clutch fan = - Must cut out the "radiator hump / mount" from core support. Trimming along the crease of the bend will give ample room. a. Use a VW MK1 Rabbit radiator. Must make mounts. - I am using a 71B 5 spd from a 720 pickup. This is what was provided with my swap. So, I used it. a. When using the 510 crossmember and stock mounts, the longtail 5 spd is sufficient. but there are necessary modifications. 1. must make a custom trans crossmember. 2. must have a customer length driveline. Datsun drivelines have staked ujoints and are typically not serviceable. I chose to have a custom driveline made with serviceable ujoints. Note: when using 510 xmember, stock mounts and a long tail transmission, the driveline will be 42" center-to-center. Note: H150 differential flange is the same as a H165. So, use any L series driveline yoke that is L series and/or H150 / H165 rear flange. - If your "B" was originally a 4spd, the clutch slave cylinder is on the driver side. 71B and 63A 5spds have the slave cyl is on the passenger side. You'll need a new clutch line - Will a 510 clutch line work(?) - L series alternators using internal regulator -- remove the B's ext. regulator the same way you would a 510. Be sure to remove / disable the choke relay or you will have a voltage draw. - Swap ignition to driver side and remove points setup if so equipped. 1 Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 I have these same wheels, but they're not finished like this. I want to make mine look similar. I traded off my Hayashi Commands for a Z22 core engine for a future build. More to come............................ 4 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted January 27, 2018 Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 A few addenda if I may... PL510 (1968-'72) crossmember DOES bolt into a B210 without issue, I also used B210 lower control arms w/ the 510 xmember. This works and has no issues. Using the 510 crossmember wih B210 control arms will widen your track slightly and add some negative camber (not necessarily a bad thing). Using 510 control arms fixes this issue and they bolt right in also. Datsun drivelines have staked ujoints and are typically not serviceable. I chose to have a custom driveline made with serviceable ujoints. , There are several Datsuns that do not use staked in joints. The 510, 610, 620, 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z use replaceable joints. The Zs would obviously be too short for a donor unless you plan to retube it, but the 510 and 620 could be used if cut down slightly and used with a long tail 5 speed. A good rule of thumb seems to be if it had an L-series, it had replaceable joints. If it had an A-series, it had staked in joints. I can't speak to whether the A10 or 710 used replaceable joints however. - Swap ignition to driver side and remove points setup if so equipped. One can also run a longer coil wire and loom it in with the spark plugs wires as an alternative. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 27, 2018 Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 The 710s are replaceable. I had a '76 B-210 new and the U joint failed... got one from a wrecking yard. Some old chevs injected plastic to fix the U joint in place, but you could knock them out and the replacements had C clips and the yokes were grooved to accept them. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 There are several Datsuns that do not use staked in joints. The 510, 610, 620, 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z use replaceable joints. The Zs would obviously be too short for a donor unless you plan to retube it, but the 510 and 620 could be used if cut down slightly and used with a long tail 5 speed. A good rule of thumb seems to be if it had an L-series, it had replaceable joints. If it had an A-series, it had staked in joints. I can't speak to whether the A10 or 710 used replaceable joints however. I got an A10 driveline. It had staked joints. I chose and A10 due to being L series and H165. Both the yoke and flange were compatible for my application. Quote Link to comment
bananahamuck Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 How much you want for the bumpers ? . Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 How much you want for the bumpers ? . I'm in them $350 ....or you talking about the stock USDM bumpers? Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 I'm enjoying watching this build but I think I'll stick with the A series. I can't wait to see this at a meet. Or the 320. Where did you get that valve cover? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted January 28, 2018 Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 I need a ride in this. Quote Link to comment
mhub91 Posted January 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2018 Dat521.... Thanks for recognizing the valve cover. It Stokes my ego haha. It's exclusive to South AfricA(?). I had it imported and I got it powdered coated locally here in WA. Not to be a brag, but it was very expensive! I don't regret it. Haha. And Mike, I will gladly let you drive it at Canby! 1 Quote Link to comment
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