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Datsun B210 - LZ23, 5 spd. The Definitive B210 swap thread.


mhub91

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Well damn, nice work there. You basically made a 510 flipped crossmember there. Are you running a swaybar? I'd think a KA 510 or maybe even a 1200 swaybar might fit. Adaptor plate looks easy too. This definitely opens up the possibility of different oil pans too.

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Yeah, it's practically a flipped crossmember. However, it's small diameter and it sits a little further back, that way I can lower the engine and also push it back a little.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Looks great!!

 

 

Thanks. 

 

You're going to need spoilers to keep this thing on the road....

 

 

Considering I totalled my dual cam KA swapped A10..... I learned my lesson. NO cut springs this time and MUST have proper brakes and tire setup (unlike my A10)

 

 

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You're going to need spoilers to keep this thing on the road....

 

 

The only thing I'm concerned about is the rear end blowing up. Still has the little H150. Considering going Ford 8".

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  • 5 months later...

For some reason I haven't updated this thread in a while.

 

 

I hope that my research / work helps others in the future.

 

Here's a few facts about swapping in an L20 (lz23 in my case...) into a "B".......

 

- PL510 (1968-'72) crossmember DOES bolt into a B210 without issue, I also used B210 lower control arms w/ the 510 xmember. This works and has no issues.

 

- L series engine with sidedraft carbs WILL fit. Note I have a 2 pc. side draft intake manifold that doesn't go out straight out from the head, but instead has a step-up (if that doesn't make sense, refer to pics in previous posts).

 

- L series exhaust manifold DOES NOT properly fit (kind of...) when using a 510 crossmember. The engine sits too far forward and the manifold down pipe will interfere with the steering arm. I'm using a square port manifold so a combination of a different manifold may work. I also tried to use the short tube header offered on ebay. This may be usable if you cut the collector short. You'll need to play with this a bit.

 

- When using a 510 xmember with factory mounts and rubber isolaters, the engine sits approximately 5" forward from the firewall. This is problematic if plans are to race or autocross the car. The engine has too much over hang on the front struts, potentially causing over steer or weight distribution issues.

       a. No room for a large radiator
       b. no room for clutch fan

=

- Must cut out the "radiator hump / mount" from core support. Trimming along the crease of the bend will give ample room.

       a. Use a VW MK1 Rabbit radiator. Must make mounts.

 

- I am using a 71B 5 spd from a 720 pickup. This is what was provided with my swap. So, I used it.

       a. When using the 510 crossmember and stock mounts, the longtail 5 spd is sufficient. but there are necessary modifications.

           1. must make a custom trans crossmember. 

           2. must have a customer length driveline. Datsun drivelines have staked ujoints and are typically not serviceable. I chose to have a custom driveline made with serviceable ujoints.

               Note: when using 510 xmember, stock mounts and a long tail transmission, the driveline will be 42" center-to-center.

               Note: H150 differential flange is the same as a H165. So, use any L series driveline yoke that is L series and/or H150 / H165 rear flange.

 

- If your "B" was originally a 4spd, the clutch slave cylinder is on the driver side. 71B and 63A 5spds have the slave cyl is on the passenger side. You'll need a new clutch line
      - Will a 510 clutch line work(?)

 

- L series alternators using internal regulator -- remove the B's ext. regulator the same way you would a 510. Be sure to remove / disable the choke relay or you will have a voltage draw.

 

- Swap ignition to driver side and remove points setup if so equipped.

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I have these same wheels, but they're not finished like this. I want to make mine look similar. 

 

I traded off my Hayashi Commands for a Z22 core engine for a future build.

 

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More to come............................

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A few addenda if I may...

 

 

 PL510 (1968-'72) crossmember DOES bolt into a B210 without issue, I also used B210 lower control arms w/ the 510 xmember. This works and has no issues.

 

Using the 510 crossmember wih B210 control arms will widen your track slightly and add some negative camber (not necessarily a bad thing). Using 510 control arms fixes this issue and they bolt right in also. 

 

Datsun drivelines have staked ujoints and are typically not serviceable. I chose to have a custom driveline made with serviceable ujoints.
,
There are several Datsuns that do not use staked in joints. The 510, 610, 620, 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z use replaceable joints. The Zs would obviously be too short for a donor unless you plan to retube it, but the 510 and 620 could be used if cut down slightly and used with a long tail 5 speed. 
 
A good rule of thumb seems to be if it had an L-series, it had replaceable joints. If it had an A-series, it had staked in joints. I can't speak to whether the A10 or 710 used replaceable joints however. 
 
- Swap ignition to driver side and remove points setup if so equipped.

 

 

One can also run a longer coil wire and loom it in with the spark plugs wires as an alternative. 

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The 710s are replaceable.

 

 

I had a '76 B-210 new and the U joint failed... got one from a wrecking yard.

 

 

 

Some old chevs injected plastic to fix the U joint in place, but you could knock them out and the replacements had C clips and the yokes were grooved to accept them.

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There are several Datsuns that do not use staked in joints. The 510, 610, 620, 240Z, 260Z, and 280Z use replaceable joints. The Zs would obviously be too short for a donor unless you plan to retube it, but the 510 and 620 could be used if cut down slightly and used with a long tail 5 speed. 

 
A good rule of thumb seems to be if it had an L-series, it had replaceable joints. If it had an A-series, it had staked in joints. I can't speak to whether the A10 or 710 used replaceable joints however. 

 

 

I got an A10 driveline. It had staked joints.

 

I chose and A10 due to being L series and H165. Both the yoke and flange were compatible for my application.

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Dat521....

 

Thanks for recognizing the valve cover. It Stokes my ego haha. It's exclusive to South AfricA(?). I had it imported and I got it powdered coated locally here in WA. Not to be a brag, but it was very expensive! I don't regret it. Haha.

 

And Mike, I will gladly let you drive it at Canby!

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