captain720 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Is there supposed to be a bolt here or does it just hang out with one bolt in each side (they are symmetrical)? 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 There is supposed to be a bolt there, 2 bolts each side hold that bracket in place. 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted February 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 Does anybody know the thread pitch/length/size of this bolt? 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted February 4, 2018 Report Share Posted February 4, 2018 No. But I know how big these nuts are. Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted February 5, 2018 Report Share Posted February 5, 2018 Just take the other one out holding the other side of the bracket and use it as a sample at the hardware store, if one doesn't want to come out try the other side, if they are both hard to get out use WD40 on the threads and turn the bolt back in a ways till the WD40 gets in there, then try backing it out again. 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted February 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 11, 2018 Got a new bolt in there, really tightened things up and reduced slop somewhat, steering and otherwise. A bolt was missing on each side so that thingy majig was literally just hanging out. On another note the seal in the front shock actually blew all at once instead of leaking like they normally do so I have a new set of those to install tomorrow. I actually felt it go while I was going round a hair pin, when I looked at it later I could see how the oil stuff had left its containment device. 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted February 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 I put the new shocks in and the old ones were running bad, so it took too long. Now it rides tighter, which is good, but it's also taller now after I fixed all that stuff. :-( Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 12, 2018 Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 You just need to adjust the torsion bars and lower it slightly to correct that. Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted February 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2018 You just need to adjust the torsion bars and lower it slightly to correct that. Will that mess up my camber? Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted February 13, 2018 Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 Small reasonable adjustments shouldn't make much difference. You can adjust the shims on the control arms to counter the issue though. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted February 13, 2018 Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 Lowering by adjusting the torsion bars should not create positive camber. 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted February 13, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 Ok cool, how low can I go before I start messing stuff up? Could I go an inch or so without any trouble? 1 Quote Link to comment
Toxicrain Posted February 13, 2018 Report Share Posted February 13, 2018 Ok cool, how low can I go before I start messing stuff up? Could I go an inch or so without any trouble? There are tons of information on torsion bar dropping. I wont do it on mine because I drive at an avg of 75 up to 100mph and i dont want a stiff ass ride so im holding out until i can find someone that can install air-ride or bag it. What you want to keep track of is how far you drop each side and make sure it is dropped the same height or your going to throw your whole front end off. I read somewhere that as a precaution to your suspension because your basically tightening the springs is people retourque the ball joints after so they are set at whatever your drop is to increase longevity of the components. The limit to as low as u can go is until the bar doesnt have thread anymore or you bottom out or rub etc.. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted February 14, 2018 Report Share Posted February 14, 2018 There are tons of information on torsion bar dropping. I wont do it on mine because I drive at an avg of 75 up to 100mph and i dont want a stiff ass ride so im holding out until i can find someone that can install air-ride or bag it. What you want to keep track of is how far you drop each side and make sure it is dropped the same height or your going to throw your whole front end off. I read somewhere that as a precaution to your suspension because your basically tightening the springs is people retourque the ball joints after so they are set at whatever your drop is to increase longevity of the components. The limit to as low as u can go is until the bar doesnt have thread anymore or you bottom out or rub etc.. Reindex properly to keep ride quality. Crank the bolts down alone will stiffen it. Reindex and adjust to even ride height will change height and travel. Match with new shocks for muy bueno. 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted February 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Going to get some 99 Rodeo seats on Friday, will let you guys know how it goes.... 4 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted February 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2018 Alright the rodeo seats were junk and they wanted way too much, so I walked out. Also the timing chain on this motor is starting to slap on start up. Grrrrr 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted February 24, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2018 Ok the slap is REALLY bad! So I am not driving it now and dailying my 4wd until I can fix it. I will replace the timing parts so I can make it to Canby. Then after that we will mess around with a KA or something. I think I can replace the timing parts in about an afternoon at this point, and I don't think I can put a KA in that fast. :thumbup: I have a 10 day spring break coming up so thats when I will be fixing stuff, I am just not sure I could get a KA in that fast, and when the Z24 does decide to work it works pretty good. Edit just to clarify I have never replaced timing stuff on this particular motor before, that was/is a stand warmer. 2 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted March 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 I am going to put new tires on in 2 weeks because its getting to nasty and hot for studs again (ok its 37 F out, but still). Since I can not actually work on my truck right now because calculus I need to do some keyboarding. I need a good performing tire that wont for back roads (nothing crazy, I still have a Z24 in there) and I need to be able to drive on the road without excessive wear and hydroplaning (have to make it to Canby guys). Also I need to decide on a size, I like the 195s with 14s for size, revs on highway and stuff, I have a set of 15 inch titans chilling, but personally their a touch ugly, but they were basically free. Would running the 15s with less sidewall negatively affect anything too bad? I want to keep the same actual diameter because I like how quick it comes off the line. I guess this could be a dumb question but whatever. 1 Quote Link to comment
Pyromancer Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 Nice, I have been trying to find a transmission or a cheep truck to pull one from for my 85 4x4 arond the Seattle area for four months. Haven't been having luck. 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted March 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 Nice, I have been trying to find a transmission or a cheep truck to pull one from for my 85 4x4 arond the Seattle area for four months. Haven't been having luck. 4*4 5 speed transmissions are a bit on the rare side, I had to go to canby to get one. Look into getting a 2wd D21 trans (4wds don't work, married T-Case). 1 Quote Link to comment
Toxicrain Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 If they had an adapter plate for z22 with 4x4 5spd trans to a 85 rwd z24 I would have 5 spd swapped my truck 6 months ago. Oh well hopefully ill find one before the motor blows (140K)and im thinkin of Ka swap. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted March 3, 2018 Report Share Posted March 3, 2018 You don't need an adapter plate with a Z22 transmission to bolt it to the Z24, they are the same bolt pattern and same transmission mount position and tilted the same angle, but the Z22 transmission is a longshaft for sure while the 85 might have a shortshaft depending on the model. Also the 4wd transmission might not have a speedo drive assembly, but if both are longshafts the tail housing that has the speedo drive can be moved to the transmission you want to use. 1985 4wd and 2wd regular cab/short box trucks have shortshaft 5 speeds, the 2wd kingcab has a longshaft, I don't recall what a 85+ regular cab/longbox has for a transmission. 3 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted March 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2018 No thread jacking here this isnt related to my wheel questions, I'm totally cool to help you out man, but not in this thread. Feel free to discuss this stuff in your own build thread with a ton of pics and we will all mosey over there to support you also your Z24 won't blow up at 140 k if rings and bearings are solid, you might blow a head gasket but that's not a big deal or lose a timing chain (check for slap). 3 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted March 4, 2018 Report Share Posted March 4, 2018 I am going to put new tires on in 2 weeks because its getting to nasty and hot for studs again (ok its 37 F out, but still). Since I can not actually work on my truck right now because calculus I need to do some keyboarding. I need a good performing tire that wont for back roads (nothing crazy, I still have a Z24 in there) and I need to be able to drive on the road without excessive wear and hydroplaning (have to make it to Canby guys). Also I need to decide on a size, I like the 195s with 14s for size, revs on highway and stuff, I have a set of 15 inch titans chilling, but personally their a touch ugly, but they were basically free. Would running the 15s with less sidewall negatively affect anything too bad? I want to keep the same actual diameter because I like how quick it comes off the line. I guess this could be a dumb question but whatever. I don't think you would notice the increased wheel size or decreased sidewall. Wheel/tire shops call this "+1" and it's a pretty common upgrade. What tires do you like? 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted March 7, 2018 Report Share Posted March 7, 2018 I ran a set of Toyo 195 75 R14s and loved them. If I can find Toyo in the 205 75 14s I will run them next with my STs. Quote Link to comment
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