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VG30 Parts truck build


captain720

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So when I adjusted the valve lash I am not confident that I did it correctly, when you do it does the feeler gauge go between the cam and the rocker arm or between the rocker arm and the valve? When I was looking I saw people doing it both ways, does it matter?

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On an L block it is between the cam and the rocker arm as it has grooved lash pads, the Z series looks different to me, but the head I have is buried and I don't want to dig it out.

No, L motors still get the lash checked at the tip of the rocker. You need a skinny feeler gauge to fit inside the lash pad.

 

Z motors also at the tip of the rocker.

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No, L motors still get the lash checked at the tip of the rocker. You need a skinny feeler gauge to fit inside the lash pad.

 

Z motors also at the tip of the rocker.

 

So mine are loose, as long as they don't make to much noise i don't care, fact is i have gotten to the point where I just do it by feel anymore.

I have a manual with a photo of the feeler gauge going between the cam lobe and the cam follower, the manual says this, "Loosen the lock nuts, insert the proper size feeler gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm on overhead valve engines, or between the cam lobe and cam follower on overhead cam engines", this is how I have always done it.

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So mine are loose, as long as they don't make to much noise i don't care, fact is i have gotten to the point where I just do it by feel anymore.

I have a manual with a photo of the feeler gauge going between the cam lobe and the cam follower, the manual says this, "Loosen the lock nuts, insert the proper size feeler gauge between the valve stem and rocker arm on overhead valve engines, or between the cam lobe and cam follower on overhead cam engines", this is how I have always done it.

Rocker ratio of about 1.6:1 means that .010" at the cam is .016" at the valve tip. I can think of a few ways in which this isn't ideal.

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Like I said, I have gotten to the point where I go by feel now, I grab the end of the rocker arm right over the valve and if I can feel just a little bit of up/down play I am good, my engines don't have follower noise.

I have messed up other stuff way worse like my cam timing for one, and I drove it that way for at least 5 years, I have slightly more power and I get better mileage, and the intake is way louder, and I am saying WAY LOUDER when my foot is in it, I cannot hear the radio anymore, but there is a lot of shit I cannot hear anymore.

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I don't want to jinx it but....... I have been daily driving this for about a week with pretty much no issues (roughly 85 miles, used the 4wd a bit for the really snowy days). valves are pretty quit, I have to turn off the heater to even hear if it is running at all. The exhaust rattles and it has a bit of a grandad setup, medium sized cat with way too much muffler. Also every once in awhile the seat decides to fall backward rapidly and scare me good.  :thumbup: (when I get new seats installed I will try and make a nice video for y'all) But I got a block heater cord from the parts store and that seems to be functioning well. I would say for roughly under $1400 this includes a new set of studs, rims, a new motor (turns out the old one will live to see another day so this doesn't really count), battery, hoses, a ton of missing bolts, some other junk, and a weeks worth of wrenching it is pretty good. 

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Man this thing is fast! Need to get on some summer tires and track it! It handles like a boss too and I haven't even lowered it, yet. :), but then again, I am coming from full size trucks and really heavy slow stuff. Sure is hard to beat the rear wheel drive in the snow and ice though.............................

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If you plan to bend everything yourself, then just buy a few extra feet of pipe to allow for incorrect bends, and buy some flanges and some hanger rod.

 

Or buy a bunch of bends of you can figure up approx what you will need.

 

But if you've no place to do it the question is academic. If you need exhaust now, then you need to have it done for you.

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If you plan to bend everything yourself, then just buy a few extra feet of pipe to allow for incorrect bends, and buy some flanges and some hanger rod.

 

Or buy a bunch of bends of you can figure up approx what you will need.

 

But if you've no place to do it the question is academic. If you need exhaust now, then you need to have it done for you.

The question was fairly academic, it's not a priority. If I could do it easily then I would do it now, I think I will wait a couple weeks until I have some more $$$$$ then pay somebody else.
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