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Beebani's Z32 front brake kit/521 install


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#1 spdcrazy

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 07:56 AM

Just finished up this swap. very pleased. parts go like this

 

cardone MC #131721 off of a 76 620 pickup

z32 brake calipers, 26mm from a NA 300zx

pads from the same z32 of course

rotors from a Honda passport

Mklotz BMC rod

 

Brake lines are really up to you, the calipers use m10x1 threads and the MC is 3/16x24 so either adapt one side or the other. I didn't use an proportion valve and I'm still running drums on the rear.
 

I didn't know how my Chevy rally wheels would clear but expected them to be an issue, I was right. a simple 3/8 spacer and longer studs were all that was needed. then of course my 195/60/15's rubbed, and not where the fender could be flared, so now I'm running 195/55/15's but all is well. so far I'm very happy with the setup. it stops on a dime now and straight! no more changing lanes under hard braking.

 

trying up upload photos, but work computer is being very slow.



#2 d.p

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 08:23 AM

You the guy on FB that posted this recently?  I was wondering about all this but don't post on fb so glad you posted it here.   I got the same rallye wheels but running a 195/50/15 so a little shorter sidewall that yours.   Those aluminum or iron Z32 calipers? And you adapt the soft or hard brake lines?  And how much all in are you on them? 



#3 Ed-datsun521

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:06 AM

I would love more info on this bro

#4 spdcrazy

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:22 AM

You the guy on FB that posted this recently?  I was wondering about all this but don't post on fb so glad you posted it here.   I got the same rallye wheels but running a 195/50/15 so a little shorter sidewall that yours.   Those aluminum or iron Z32 calipers? And you adapt the soft or hard brake lines?  And how much all in are you on them?


Yep that's me. My fenders were flared already for my 195/60s. So when I spaced the fronts out 3/8" the 60s hit above the fender lip. So keep that in mind, but I would expect 50s to fit if you weren't super low, I'm tucking tire at ride height.

I ran all new lines up front. Used factory z32 rubber lines which are stupid long. Prob redo them later. Also made new hard lines off the calipers. The. New hard lines from the BMC to the rubber lines. All new new. Lol.

#5 spdcrazy

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:22 AM

I would love more info on this bro


What more ya want to know? If I don't know it, some folks on here will for sure

#6 spdcrazy

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:28 AM

And yes. Aluminum calipers. 26mm. I got lucky and have good friends with Z32s (as do I, but it's dead and has been for a long while) so I had cost of lines, fluid, pads and rotors. Then $160 for the brackets. And $40? For the BMC

#7 spdcrazy

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:31 AM

IMG_20170319_182638512_zpschuw6f8p.jpg

IMG_20170319_195619261_zps2eqcosho.jpg

IMG_20170319_190823905_zpsswd8nghc.jpg


IMG_20170325_200959245_zpscycqo9qn.jpg

#8 spdcrazy

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:32 AM

Photos are with the 60s on. And in the air. Just shows what it looks like with the extra poke.

#9 d.p

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:48 AM

Looks like you were poking already?  Been looking hard at doing this on my 71 521, its low but not slammed and not tucking by any means.  

 

Can buy an all in kit from silverminemotors for $575 (no new MC), but they use calipers from a d21 hardbody.

 

I figure going your route and piecing it all together would be roughly the same price.

 

$200 for calipers

$160 for brackets

$60 Pads

$45 MC

$40 lines

$xx spacers

$xx longer studs

 

Not sure if I am missing anything.  



#10 spdcrazy

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 10:11 AM

That's about right. I planned out the d21 setup to be just over $300 however. Using rockauto. And without a BMC as I already had it. Z32 calipers can be found used as the NA boys like to upgrade. And the 240 guys want the 30mm guys.

Also, I weighed the difference at 8 lbs more per side. 23lbs per drum setup. 31lbs for the disk. Well worth it in my eyes.

#11 spdcrazy

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Posted 30 March 2017 - 10:43 AM

IMG_20160620_154614151_zpsowhl5xj8.jpg

Also, this is my truck with the 60s on it. Just after the fender flare. I'm a bit lower now and of course on the 50 series

#12 Crashtd420

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Posted 31 March 2017 - 04:49 AM

Looks like you were poking already? Been looking hard at doing this on my 71 521, its low but not slammed and not tucking by any means.

Can buy an all in kit from silverminemotors for $575 (no new MC), but they use calipers from a d21 hardbody.

I figure going your route and piecing it all together would be roughly the same price.

$200 for calipers
$160 for brackets
$60 Pads
$45 MC
$40 lines
$xx spacers
$xx longer studs

Not sure if I am missing anything.


I am doing the pieced together way because you can get lifetime warrantee on the caliper/bracket/pads.... they get you on the core so I was gonna try and get some cheap junk calipers to turn in as a core.

#13 d.p

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Posted 31 March 2017 - 04:52 AM

I am doing the pieced together way because you can get lifetime warrantee on the caliper/bracket/pads.... they get you on the core so I was gonna try and get some cheap junk calipers to turn in as a core.

 

You talking about Rock Auto core charges? 



#14 Crashtd420

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Posted 31 March 2017 - 05:04 AM

No i try to stick with local autoparts stores for something I want to eventually warrantee ...i only use rock auto as a last resort... there shipping costs arw awful... and if you ever need to waranntee it you still have to deal with all the shipping..

#15 G-Duax

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Posted 31 March 2017 - 11:58 AM

 

...i only use rock auto as a last resort...

 

 

Good move....

They constantly screw up shipping to me when I really need something fast, and substitute chinese parts when I order name brands.

 

Can't wait to get my Z32s on. Found a member selling his unused bracket set, and found the Z32na calipers in Japan, for cheap.

Just need to drill the Honda rotors, and get some 16" tires for my new rims.

(my Decem-10s won't clear the brakes due to the rim depression being all the way to the inside on them :( )

 

Had some stainless brake lines meant for an older Toyota sedan that matched everything up.



#16 spdcrazy

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Posted 01 April 2017 - 04:10 AM

what do you mean drill your Honda rotors?



#17 G-Duax

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Posted 01 April 2017 - 10:46 AM

extreme_brake_rotor.jpg

brakes_e46m3_rotor_front_lg.jpg

 

Which can lead to this if you do a lot of 150mph to 20mph hard brake apps,

But my 620 doesn't do 120 often, probably mostly 70 or less most of the time, so I'm not worried about it.

 

Rotor_BigCrack.jpg

 

Could have bought pre-drilled, slotted or both, but they were all chinese junk......



#18 spdcrazy

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Posted 01 April 2017 - 11:16 AM

that's what I was thinking, i'm personally not a fan of drilling, but slotted now, that I can get with.

 

but they do have a look that I enjoy. good luck!



#19 Lockleaf

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Posted 01 April 2017 - 11:58 AM

I've been told repeatedly that dimpling gives nearly all the benefit of drilling while almost completely eliminating. The risk of cracking the rotor.

I have no empirical evidence to back this up.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

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Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#20 Ed-datsun521

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Posted 11 April 2017 - 12:40 AM

How much extra "poke" would you think it has