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Datsun 521 Fuse Box?


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I bought a new one on the bay and its different, I can only assume it was for a J13 engine?  The bar on the new one is 2x3 wide, the old one is 2 and 4 wide.   Also looks like different amperage fuses as well.  Can anyone confirm l16 521 fuse ampers?  

 

I really only bought it to get the screw on cover but it appears the screw broke off in the box on mine so I can't even use it.   :(  I thought about switching the bars from the old to new but wasn't able to get them out.  Anyone know how they come out?  

 

32785630474_9f039cee47.jpg

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Datsun 521/L16 trucks had at least two different fuse boxes.  Earlier 521's had three always hot fuses, and three ignition hot fuses.  Later 521 trucks had four always hot, two switched fuses.

 

Are you trying to keep the stock fuse box, or are you just want the fuse box to work?

 

See this page for info on a modern blade type fuse box I put in one of my 521 trucks.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/49698-my-dragon-datsun-521/page-5

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Mine works fine I just wanted a working cover. So I just swapped the hot and switched fuse bars from the old to the new fuse block. Should be golden now.

 

 

 

Can someone confirm the fuse sizes in the later L16 521?

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This is a wring diagram of a "four always hot" fusebox.  It shows a 15 amp fuse in the headlight position, but stock headlights are 50 watts, and 37.5 watts on high beam.  That is 175 watts total, divided by 12 volts equals 14.5 amps.

 

12 gauge wire is good for 20 amps.  10 gauge wire is good for 30 amps.

 

An easy mod is to add an extra cube Bosch type relay by the original Datsun headlight relay.  Run a separate fused power wire to the new relay, use the red with a yellow stripe wire from the original relay to trigger the new relay, and get headlight current out of the original Datsun fuse box.

 

Fused power to pin 30 of new relay.  Use at least 12 ga wire, or 10 gauge.

Original red with a yellow stripe wire to pin 86 of new relay.

Ground pin 85 of new relay.

Run a short jumper wire from pin 87 of new relay to the place that is empty on the original headlight relay.

 

521wires.jpg

Edited by DanielC
Photobucket shenaganians
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What is the build date on your 521?

I believe the difference between a 3/3 and a 4/2 fuse box is separate fused power to the tail lights.  Remove the head light fuse, it is in line with a thick red wire on the back side of the fuse box, going into the cab.  If tail lights, and all the other smaller lights come on with the light switch pulled out, I think you have a 4/2 fuse box

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7 minutes ago, Greaser2 said:

Define how you “switched” the bars.  Looking at mine I’m not seeing how???


It’s been awhile but I think I just took everything from the original box and swapped them into the new box.  They pop out though.  Pinch the fuse holders from the top and they come out the bottom. 
 

 

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40 minutes ago, Greaser2 said:

Which one are u recommending??  Seems to be several models.   


I just got a cheap one. It’s 6 separate circuits, so what I did is cut real short pieces of heavy gauge wire and soldered them into the bottom after trimming away some clearance in the plastic ribs. I basically just jumped the circuits to match the original fuse holder. Plus, there’s a bottom cover that insulates everything when you bolt it down.

 

Flb2Gko.jpg

 

Auxiliary Automotive Fuse Box... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JPCZAQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Edited by mainer311
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3 hours ago, DanielC said:

What is the build date on your 521?

I believe the difference between a 3/3 and a 4/2 fuse box is separate fused power to the tail lights.  Remove the head light fuse, it is in line with a thick red wire on the back side of the fuse box, going into the cab.  If tail lights, and all the other smaller lights come on with the light switch pulled out, I think you have a 4/2 fuse box

 

I will get the vin at some point tomorrow.  Stuck at work all freaking day today.  As far as going off the light switch, thats another "issue".  I was sold it without one.  I bought one off ebay.  When I pull my switch out one click, i get headlights and tailights.  If I pull it again to two clicks, all I get are headlights.  I am sure I can depin it and get it back to stock, but I kinda like it this way.

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My plate in the door jam has been painted over several times.  I am going to try to get the paint off without ruining the build date.  I searched and could not find a pic of a door tag.  Is the build date stamped into the tag?  so that I could just take a razor to it to clean it off?

 

Here is the tag in the engine bay.

 

53NIgKA.jpg

 

 

So this confuses me as well.  I have seen others post that PL521 serial numbers are from 207,797 to 567,872.  I am guessing I have a bastard truck right around the change.  But I have been wrong before.

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