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Oops, I did it again!


720inOlyWa

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Today, while pulling the front brake calipers (they were tight on the rotors) I also pulled the master cylinder to check its functionality and to clean it inside and out. It seems to be in good shape, and outputting well enough, so I re-istalled it this afternoon.  I haven‘t tried to compress the caliper cylinders yet, so I am not sure if the caliper pistons are okay or hung up. I ordered my brake parts today and pumped the gnarly old brake fluid out of the lines, wheel by wheel.

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  • 2 weeks later...

It is a rainy week here in the pacific northwest. Good thing I put in some hours last week shoring up my trusty old ‘greenhouse‘ because heavy rain bands have been plowing through all day.

 

So it is a good day for finishing up the rehabbing of an ST steering wheel for this truck. (see above for before) Rehabbing consists or prepping and shooting satin black over the anodizing, leather repair, stitching repair, cleaning, re-dying, and final lacquering. 

 

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For some reason, I just couldn‘t resist the temptation to use that damn pewter GM block paint on the bolt heads... must be a phase...

 

UmfW6Rp.jpg?1

 

I like the look, installed. Muted, subdued. It feels real good in the hands, too!

 

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For some reason, I just couldn't resist the temptation to use that damn pewter GM block paint on the bolt heads... must be a phase...

Your guide to doing any repair or restoration:

 

Step 1: Apply pewter GM block paint

Step 2: Done

:rofl:

 

It looks really good though! Nice job!  :thumbup:

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I thought they were all (USA versions) made- that is, assembled- in Smyrna by 85. But Im not positive.

 

The best way to get meaningful help with your idle issues is to start a thread. That really works, especially if you include pics and explain things fairly carefully. Here is what I have learned from my adventures getting a nice idle and smooth performance: the answer is in there somewhere, probably under the hood. These aren‘t crazy complicated machines and, if you wear away at it, eventually you will uncover the culprit and all will be well! Seriously, that is how I have done it so far. Probably a common story around here.

 

My issues with tis truck may be centered around a failing alternator. I haven‘t dug the replacement out yet, but that is coming. If the alternator doesn‘t get it, I will move on to the next possibility. 

 

In the mean time, think about it, search the content here first, then start a thread. Couldn‘t hurt. Good luck!...

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Oh yeah, man. Nice engine bay. And forgive me, but do I see a little Duplicolor block paint / GM pewter in there? Mmmmmm, delicious.  I am going to steal that clear silicone tubing idea for the coolant overflow. I just like that one. But what I really appreciate is that you got it sorted out to the point where it runs real, real nice like. That is really a neat place to get to, a real achievement.

 

I thought I had it right a couple of times along the way, but then discovered some little thing that I had overlooked, or got backwards- whatever.  Eventually, it all pulled together and it just smoothed right out. I still have a hard time wiping the grin off of my face when I start it up. It has a carb yet it almost starts like a fuel injected engine. Pretty damn cool, if you ask me. Of course, now that I understand what is possible- even if it is still not totally optimized- I am relentless with my other 720 projects. Relentless. They don‘t even leave the driveway for a test drive until they pass a tough test.

 

It‘s all good fun. And that is a nice looking engine bay.

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Yep, Duplicolor engine paint, Ford Blue actually. I had the tranny rebuilt so it was a good time to detail the engine bay, paint the engine and  replace the leaky oil pan gasket/ rear seal. Wish I had replaced those small coolant lines under the intake manifold, I hear they're a real B.

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Yep, Duplicolor engine paint, Ford Blue actually. I had the tranny rebuilt so it was a good time to detail the engine bay, paint the engine and  replace the leaky oil pan gasket/ rear seal. Wish I had replaced those small coolant lines under the intake manifold, I hear they're a real B.

They are. If you have larger hands it's virtually impossible. 

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Okay, wayno... 

It took a few days, but I finally got around to looking at the ID plate for the first time. Holy cow- the actually skinny on this rig! So, here it is:

 

lZouZbj.jpg?1

 

I have my shop manual open and that can clear up some off this mystery, like the fact that it did indeed come with the Z20, in 1984. Again, this suggests that it was the ‘mpg’ model, but I am still not quite sure and the general info on this model still seems unclear to me.

 

I recall that you, or mike, carefully walked us through this information some time ago. I want to know it cold, so I will go back and look for it on my other thread. On the first line, KF720 must mean King Cab 720. Below that, where it the type as KFL 720STUF I read to mean King Cab, 720, Standard model, Manual transmission, Non-California model for USA, Five Speed gearbox.

 

It has the regular five speed 71B transmission, of course, but the H33 designation- which is the axle model, I believe- I forgot what that means.

We will find out together, wayno. I had one guy say that with the higher compression, it really isn‘t too bad, power wise. But hell, he was talking about a camperized version, which had to be way heavy.

 

The Z20 valves are sure bigger than my Z24. I am (so far) completely satisfied with the power of the Z24 for my use. When fresh, it seems perfect for my uses.

 

But I have only 5 blocks on this Z20 so far, so I don‘t know. Sure curious though. Something to think about as I fix stuff.

 

Is your 720 the turbodiesel? Or is that the 521 that is the turbodiesel? As I remember, both are amped up in some way.

 

Z20(S) MPG option...

 

The special Z20 in the 720 has 9 to 1 compression and 3.364 ratio differential. This would ping like a bitch so a knock sensor is installed in the block and there is an ignition retard box mounted in the cab that senses knocking and adjusts the timing to eliminate this. 

All Z20 engines came with a 5 speed no automatic

All Z20s came with a 240mm clutch.

All Z20 came with a special head similar to the Z22/24 but with a smaller combustion chamber volume and two small quench areas on them.

All Z20s had the 152.5mm 'long rods' and the flattop pistons.

 

I'm not convinced the valves are larger diameter, they are a different part number, but i suspect this is because of the combustion chamber design. I think they are shorter in length. If you look at a Z22/24 with the valves are off their seats they touch. There isn't much room in the head for larger ones. 

 

K.............. King Cab

L.............. Z20(S) engine

L ............. left hand drive

 

720

 

S............. standard trim model (there are 4 others, not available))

T.............. standard transmission (K is automatic but not available)

(blank).... carburetor (E... EFI not available)

U............ federal emissions (V... California, not available)

F............. 5 speed transmission (T... would be 4 speed but neither letter needed as there were none after '82)

 

HE is H-190mm diameter ring gear

 

33 is 3.364 ratio

 

 

Today, I decided the time and mood were right to dive back into my Nissan 720 fleet. First up is ‘Fitty Buck Chuck‘ here, who is really close to being a nice little runner. The choke relay is buzzing like crazy and replacing it didn‘t do the trick, so I pulled it altogether for now. I suppose that means my choke isn‘t working, but I forged on anyway. It was running great, except for being cold blooded due to no choke action. I warmed it up and checked the timing again and then set to adjusting the mixture and carb settings on the 32/36 weber. I had it set up a little rich and a quarter turn tighter on the mixture screw really smoothed things out nicely.

 

This evening, when things cool off a bit, I will pull all four wheels off to drag them off to Les Schwab. They will remove the tires and then I will refinish the wheels before they get new tires and go back on. This will give me a good chance to check out the brakes and lube up some chassis bits.

 

Buzzing choke heater relay is almost always a poorly charging alternator. Replacing the relay never works.

 

The stock rim/ tire for the '84 mileage option truck is 5.5JJ X 14" aluminum road wheel with P185/80R14 tires

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Thanks, Mike!

I dug a stock alternator out of the pile- one that I know was working fine- and I took it to one of my favorite little shops up in Tacoma that rebuilds starter motors and alternators. I had a starter motor I wanted him to fix anyway, and checking out the alternator only took a few minutes. (I would rather repair a stock Nissan alternator than buy a crappy after market version, myself)  Well, it is fine and sits on the floor of the cab now, ready to go in.  That‘s a pleasant enough 20 minute job.

 

When it comes to ferreting out electrical issues, I am way out of my depth. But replacing components- hell, I am GREAT at that!  It is so great to have a good lead on this electrical mystery. So thanks!!!

 

 

.....

 

 

Okay, So this morning, I installed a new alternator and that mopped up a bunch of little problems, as one might expect. It runs much better, the gauges snap to attention, the choke heater relay is not screaming anymore and I can hear the soft hum of the fuel pump when the ignition is on and the engine is not running. All signs of normalcy, life, health!  Fitty Buck Chuck takes another step out of- and away from- the crypt.  Now to get back to those brakes...

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  • 1 month later...

Yes it does feel good to know that the brakes are good. Did you order a master cylinder too?

 

To be sure everything is new, remember to blow out the hard lines and pay attention to what comes out. If it's cruddy, you may consider flushing them before you close the hydraulic system and add new fluid.

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I had already rebuilt the master cylinder and replaced the brake booster.  So it should be good to go.... er.....stop! I bought a quart of brake fluid with an eye towards a serious hard flush as I bleed the brakes. And yes, paying attention to what comes out aint a bad idea either.

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  • 8 months later...

Well, Fitty Buck Chuck is officially a runner now. All new brakes, and I mean all new. I replaced everything. She sounds like a tank because the exhaust system is still toast, but I snuck it out for a few shake down runs to get the grease worked into the steering linkage nicely. I replaced 4 zerk fittings and gooed it all up real good.  This is an MPG model truck remember, so I was interested in seeing if it was gutless with the taller rear end. I can say, it is NOT! This guy is a little burro, even more torquey and my Fudgecicle. It just wants to get after it.  My initial impression is that I like this package a lot. 2,000 rpm in fifth gear looks like 53 mph. Noticeably lower than my 85 King Cab.

 

The repair list is now much less dire than it had been. With the brakes more or less locked up before, and the steering linkage stiff, and the tires low, this truck  had the distinct feel of the coffin about it. But now that it rolls nicely on good wheels and tires, with the wheel bearings greased up, the linkage greased up, and new rotors, calipers and pads and a total top end rebuild, the beast has fully emerged from the crypt nicely.  No power steering aint so bad after all, once the front end is serviced and the tires nice and hard. And that 2.0 MPG engine is the best runner I own right now- even with the choke not working yet..

 

The list of fixes is still pretty long, but most of it seems to be pretty minor stuff.

 

I better go transfer the title tomorrow, huh?

 

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Edited by 720inOlyWa
typos
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Find out what the MPG is like will you? It was purpose made for it

 

2 liter engine

5 speed only, in wide ratio configuration.

9 to one compression (knock sensor and ignition retard)

240mm clutch

3.364 differential

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Woah, hold on a second there.... I just glanced down at the speedo and tach while I was driving, then recalled it three hours later for my post. I may well have messed up my reporting, but I can tell right away that it turns a few less rpm at 50 than my 85 does. You notice it right away. It also feel like maybe first and second are lower, if that is possible. In first gear, it just barely moves at idle. I call this ‘trundling‘ and it is one of my favorite characteristics of these old analog Japanese pick up trucks. They trundle great. Well, this MPG version is an exceptional trundler.

 

I am also kind of fascinated by how the 2.0 engine is torquey enough to drive it along with even more authority than my A/C and power steering burdened Z24. This is going to be a really nice little truck for somebody when it is done. I can tell that the basic package is quite lovable, even though the repair list is still pretty long and it aint there yet.  I think I will fix a couple of things that will make it easier to drive, then haul it if to Eddies for a new exhaust pipe and an Accord muffler (the best choice for a 720 “TrundleKing“ grandpa truck!).

 

I put a center console from a Pathfinder in my Fudgecicle. It already had an arm rest on the door insides. Being the ‘Scoth Buy‘ model, this truck has neither, of course. Just a little pull handle on the door to close it shut. Boy, I really miss a place to put my elbows when I drive! Like a few minutes behind the wheel, and I am trying to lean on something. I‘ve gotta fit arm rests and a center console to this dude before I am done with it.

 

I am not sure if I bragged on this before, but I have a list of five people who want to buy this truck when it is ready. Two neighbors, the mailman, and my barrista and her boyfriend all want it- badly. Now that is is rumbling up and down our street, I am starting to hear from the peanut gallery. “Almost done yet?“ And my wife badly wants it to leave the driveway.  So it wont be too long before she, and some lucky buyer, get their ways. Then I can take that dough and finish off the 4x4.

 

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Edited by 720inOlyWa
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