I thought I'd put all the information on the 510 1/4 windows that I have learned while doing 3 car builds. I'm hoping to cover, types of screws used, where to buy them, replacement rubber, or reconditioning original, and pics to help with the information. I'm just a backyard wrencher, so remember there are many ways to skin a rabbit, I made the effort to do the write up to help others. So, be kind with your input, Thanks
First the glass, some of you may or may not know, the glass came as no tint in the earlier year productions, and factory tinted in the newer models, same with the rear window. Below is the two versions side by side
Next would be choice of window condition and what to do with each. There are 1/4 windows in decent condition as far as the frame to glass rubber goes. If the rubber isn't hard and cracking, may be just hard and a rough texture, not much rust or corrosion on the frame, you can disassemble the frame, and save the rubber. So, you can try to dissemble the frame carefully, patiently, and delicately as possible. I use 303 protectant to lube between the glass and rubber as I work the glass around. This keeps the glass from sticking back to the rubber. Take your time, be careful with the rubber at each corner, this is where the rubber likes to tear or break. It's not the worst, you can always glue the ends back to reassemble, if the rubber is worth saving. I have taken some apart with a corroded frame, hard, cracked rubber, and pretty much all falls apart and only the glass is usable. So, at least get frames with no corrosion or very little, the less the better.
Below is a set of 1/4 windows that would be a good to rebuild with the original frame to glass rubber.
So, now we have our windows selected. Tools and materials I like to use for the job:
1/4 inch drive ratchet with Philip head tip
Philip head screw driver
Small regular blade screw driver
Thread locker- Blue
303 Protectant- my preference for UV and preserving plastic, rubber, wood, etc, around longer then Armerol. 303 was originally made and used by the aerospace industry as a spec item to treat rubber and plastics
Screws QTY 7 per frame, 14 for set, Stainless steel (18-8) Philp Pan M4-.7 x 6mm long with star washers attached sourced from McMaster Carr or other hardware supplier, ACE Hardware stores have a good supply of stainless screws and metric.
Screws QTY 2 per frame, 4 per set, Stainless steel Philp Pan M4-7 x 8 to 10 mm long
Flat washer QTY 2 per frame, 4 per set, #8 ( American) stainless steel or M4 metric
Lock washer QTY 2 per frame, 4 per set #8 (American) stainless steel or M4 metric
Tap M4-.7 and tap holder
Tap oil or other light oil for tracing threads
Outer frame to body rubber QTY 2 per set
To start, you'll need to remove the frame to body rubber. The rubber seems to be glue to the frame, sometimes its even stuck from rust of the frame. I use the small screw driver to help scrape the rubber and glue off the frame, pulling on the rubber as I go. I haven't found a way to remove this rubber without destroying it and needs to be removes to take the frame apart.
Rubber off, there are 4 screws, two at each end, on top and bottom of the vertical piece of the frame. They can be tough or impossible to remove. I use my 1/4 drive ratchet and Philip screw tip to help get leverage. Worst case, you have to drill off the screw head, ONLY the head, leave the thread portion of the screw, don't want to ruin the threads. You can use vise grips to remove the thread. Worst case, carefully drill out the screw thread, make sure to have a small enough drill to not remove the eternal threads. Then use the tap to finish up the internal threads.
Pic of the screws to remove on the frame
Once all the screws are out, remove the vertical piece. I mark each end on the vertical piece and frame with a center punch, one punch to one punch, other end two punch to two punch. On the other frame mark with 3 to 3 and 4 to 4. So, if you have the frame pieces chromed or powder coated, you can always see the marks. Make sure to make the marks deep enough if powder coating. If you have them parts chromed or powder coated, use the tap to clean up the threads after.
Now you can remove the glass. My most successful way has been to remove the glass and leave the rubber in the frame. You have to bend open the ends of the frame and wiggle the glass loose from the rubber. Be careful, with the rubber at the corners. I usually slip the rubber off the glass at that end, be patient and eventually the glass will come out.
Then carefully remove the rubber from the frame.
Then remove the 3 screws from the window bracket.
I use warm soap, nylon stiff brush, to clean the old rubber. If you don't want to use the frame to glass rubber, I recommend buying "Datsport", 1/4 window rubbers and frame to body rubber too. They are both one piece and fit excellent. They are made by a local plant in Australia, are of top quality, and fit like OEM. I bought all the rubber for my car from them. Yes more expensive and shipping to USA, etc, but you won't get the fit and quality from any world supplier I know of. Hey, your ride, I just don't want to spend years building my car, loads of money, and try to cut cost on parts that see tons of wear and UV damage. Who wants the rubber cracking on windows that are a bitch to remove and install.
Reverse the procedure
Stainless Screws should be lubricated to get the proper seating of the thread and combat galling. So, while the screw has a star washer to keep from losing, I use blue thread locker to lubricate the threads, seal the threads from corroding, and makes for easier removal down the road.
The Frame Screws: The reason there are 6mm and 10mm screw is the length makes a difference with the 7 in the frame. Even with OEM rubber the screw go through and start to in coach where the glass edge will be, making it difficult to get the frame pieces to match up. All of the screws I have removed, measured 6mm, and had star washers separate. Since you need to buy stainless, to battle corrosion, you can buy screws with the star washers captive on the screw for almost the same price. Will save you the headache of putting each one on, keeping it on, while installing the screw. My big, clumsy, fingers, and tiny parts aren't easy for me or in the area of the frame. You can just buy the screws, and buy American #8 star washers. You may be able to buy the screws and washers at a local Ace Hardware, not HD or Lowe's. I couldn't seem to find them, so bought mine at McMaster-Carr, with the star washers already on them.
Here is the window bracket with the screws installed. You can see they protrude some what towards the glass edge channel. Therefore, length is important.
Apply several applications of the 303 protectant before installing the glass in the frame. Use plenty while installing the glass and rubber in the frame. I like to put the rubber on the glass, then rubber and glass in the frame. Can be tricky around the window bracket. Sometimes its different methods to get them in.
The 2 screws 8-10mm long screws, flat washers, and lock washers go on the body to latch bracket, use thread locker here too.
OEM Bulkhead latch assemblies L and R
Here is a look at how the spring goes on the latch
When installing the frame to body rubber on to the frame, rubber is not symmetrical, and should be installed as below in the small channel spot welded to the frame. Use a small amount of glue for rubber weather stripping. Be careful on the type of glue, some attach rubber.
I don't remember the size and length of the 2 screws to secure the bulkhead bracket to body(" L" shaped bracket) or the 4 screws securing the frame to the body. I'm guessing M4-.7 x ? long with flat washers and lock washers? My car is a ways away at a buddy's for some wiring, not a fan of electrical.
Thanks for reading this length post if you made it this far!! I hope this helps with your build!!