Suntzuzuki Posted March 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 I really meant if one is going to rebuild a L motor I would do a L20 instead of a L16 as the cost is the same. Buy an L20 and rebuild it? Wouldn't I need a 5speed tranny too? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 9, 2017 Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 I put an L20B in my '71. By total accident it was from a car and the clutch was the same. No you don't need a 5 speed. L20Bs didn't come with a 5 speed until '77 and even then it was an option. The L series 5 speed will fit your L16 just as well. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 9, 2017 Report Share Posted March 9, 2017 Everyone always says to build the l20 when someone mentions rebuilding an l16. It's the easiest swap and the power benefits are greater for your money. No replacement for displacement.... its all a matter of preference... untill I blow up my L16 she stays, but I like matching numbers or I would have done a modern motor swap instead for the money I spent. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 So I'm doing this job with the engine still in the truck. There's a part in the manual about jacking up the engine and putting wood blocks over the motor mounts for clearance in removing the sump pump. This is the only part that has me a little sketched out. Also my plan for measuring the clearance is just to put plastigague on the bearing and then bolting it back in to spec, most times it's done with the engine out and you put the plastigague directly on the journal. I'm leaving work early to start today! Thanks for everything, guys! Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I'd just pull it out. At that point you are only like 6 bolts away from having it out of the truck and not laying on the ground for hours. Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I don't have a cherry picker or an engine stand Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Looks like a Harbor Freight run is in your future.. You don't wanna do this how your thinking. Lol. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Ok, I'm at work now but gotta check the manual. I can rent a cherry picker for $30 in Renton and buy an engine stand. I haven't pulled an engine since '89 and I was with my dad so it's a bit unnerving. Where do you guys attach the chain for the pulley? (I'm sure it's in the manual but I trust this forum better) Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 This isn't as crazy as it sounds if he's just doing the rod bearings.... if he was trying to do the crank bearings I would agree it's crazy.... as far as jacking the motor doesn't the frame have a removable crossmember under the oil pan? I know my 72 does? Did other years?.. And using the plastic gauge might be tricky.... you probably wanna check it without the piston rings on it. Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 I am just doing the rod bearings. That's why I asked you guys, I don't always trust the haynes manual. Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Also, the last time I did the head gasket I swear there was a step by step tutorial on here and I couldn't find it for the life of me. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Look for banzai510 ( hainz..) even on u tube... he has a bunch of rebuild videos. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 olddatsuns.com in the tech section has most everything. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 And there he is.... Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Anyone who has The Clash playing throughout his entire video is my kinda guy...They're the best band ever. Sorry for digressing from Datsun talk. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 10, 2017 Report Share Posted March 10, 2017 Why plasti gauge it??? You know they are used and probably worn. At the very best they be like new and anything else means replacing them anyway. Skip that and just put new bearings in it. It runs fine so at worst the old bearings maybe slightly worn so new ones will remove the extra clearance and bring it back to new. You can even spin the old mains out as well without removing the crank, using a large cotter pin.. Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 I think I found why I was losing compression Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Pistons seem ok though! Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Probably the fram filter. Easy fix. Pop two new exhaust valves in, a quick lap and away ya go. 1 Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 This may sound foolish, but I want to do the rings and the timing kit as well. And I'm going to have the head rebuilt. It's a sentimental thing, like when my dad and I did when I was a kid. I know it probably doesn't make sense. Quote Link to comment
Suntzuzuki Posted March 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 So in order to take the oil pan out I have to jack up the engine? I can't just take off that cross joint and take the pan out that way? Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Rebuild? Sure. Yes the cross brace can be unbolted. Quote Link to comment
Rick-rat Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 If you are going to do all that work, you should pull the engine, have the block boiled out and cleaned up and do it right the first time and it should last for a long time. Nothing wrong with an L-16, ran one in my 73 620 for many years. I would probably just get a new chain and tensioner gears should be fine I would replace all the gaskets, oil pump, and expansion plugs while you're at it just my opinion, which most people don't care about 1 Quote Link to comment
uberkevin Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 In yellow, yes you could drop these and geter done. You need a separating Fork. this is just easier pulling the motor. Lol. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted March 11, 2017 Report Share Posted March 11, 2017 Rick rat what you said is good advice but if your gonna go through all that and not do the gears too I would have to disagree. I've always been the type if you replace any gear and chain combo do it all.... the gears and chains wear together... Quote Link to comment
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