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New Rings/Bearings/Timing Chain help


Suntzuzuki

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I put an L20B in my '71. By total accident it was from a car and the clutch was the same.

 

No you don't need a 5 speed. L20Bs didn't come with a 5 speed until '77 and even then it was an option. The L series 5 speed will fit your L16 just as well.

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Everyone always says to build the l20 when someone mentions rebuilding an l16. It's the easiest swap and the power benefits are greater for your money. No replacement for displacement.... its all a matter of preference... untill I blow up my L16 she stays, but I like matching numbers or I would have done a modern motor swap instead for the money I spent.

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So I'm doing this job with the engine still in the truck. There's a part in the manual about jacking up the engine and putting wood blocks over the motor mounts for clearance in removing the sump pump. This is the only part that has me a little sketched out.

 

Also my plan for measuring the clearance is just to put plastigague on the bearing and then bolting it back in to spec, most times it's done with the engine out and you put the plastigague directly on the journal.

 

I'm leaving work early to start today!

 

Thanks for everything, guys!

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Ok, I'm at work now but gotta check the manual. I can rent a cherry picker for $30 in Renton and buy an engine stand.

 

I haven't pulled an engine since '89 and I was with my dad so it's a bit unnerving. Where do you guys attach the chain for the pulley? (I'm sure it's in the manual but I trust this forum better)

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This isn't as crazy as it sounds if he's just doing the rod bearings.... if he was trying to do the crank bearings I would agree it's crazy.... as far as jacking the motor doesn't the frame have a removable crossmember under the oil pan? I know my 72 does? Did other years?..

And using the plastic gauge might be tricky.... you probably wanna check it without the piston rings on it.

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Why plasti gauge it??? You know they are used and probably worn. At the very best they be like new and anything else means replacing them anyway. Skip that and just put new bearings in it. It runs fine so at worst the old bearings maybe slightly worn so new ones will remove the extra clearance and bring it back to new. You can even spin the old mains out as well without removing the crank, using a large cotter pin..

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If you are going to do all that work, you should pull the engine, have the block boiled out and cleaned up and do it right the first time and it should last for a long time. Nothing wrong with an L-16, ran one in my 73  620 for many years. I would probably just get a new chain and tensioner gears should be fine

 I would replace all the gaskets, oil pump, and expansion plugs while you're at it

 

 

 

just my opinion, which most people don't care about

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