Jump to content


Photo
* * * * * 2 votes

"Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr


  • Please log in to reply
179 replies to this topic

#141 Crashtd420

Crashtd420

    Datsun Mechanic

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,077 posts
  • Location:Massachusetts
  • Cars:1972 Datsun 521

Posted 09 December 2017 - 10:04 AM

What he built can be done a grinder, a drill, and vice. The vice can be replaced with a couple vice grips. Put a piece of metal on either side of your workpiece and vice grip them along the the line you want bent. Start the bend by hand, if you need more, lightly tap the bend with a hammer till it's bent far enough.

If you want to add some extra finesse, round off all square corners. Its amazing how much "finished" it makes things appear. But there is absolutely nothing wrong with an "agricultural" appearance, as tedman put it. Its still a very smartly designed and assembled piece.

Also, if you don't have one, get a flap wheel for your grinder. They will change the whole game pic metal finishing.


Completely agree... and you basically described how I get my stuff done....
And yes I got a couple flapper wheels...

#142 shacks510

shacks510

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,477 posts
  • Location:SoCal
  • Cars:'72 510 two-door

Posted 09 December 2017 - 02:05 PM

That’s a neat heat shield. I made one for my Mikuni manifold also, but a little simpler. Mine is just galvanized sheet steel with aluminum flat stock, mounted just by the two bosses underneath the manifold. I made dimples in it with a socket and a ball peen hammer for the accelerator pump arms. It is sturdy and works well without extra thermal protection. I can touch the bottoms of the carburetors and they are warm, but not hot. I am also running a stock mechanical fan, so that helps blow some air around some.
"FHRITP" - datzenmike

#143 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 19 January 2018 - 08:50 PM

It's been a while since my last update. Motivation has been lacking with the new year, but I'm back at it. Sometimes it helps to step back and take a little breather. Anyway, I achieved a major milestone today and got the engine and transmission installed! Here's a shot of the engine bay prior to install. The last thing I needed to do was replace the grungy original thermal wrap fabric on the e-brake cable. I wrapped it with the same thermal wrap material I used on the underside of the heatshield.

s7h7QFr.jpg

 

Here's the new engine on the hook:

ZE88doC.jpg

 

Installed my used but serviceable Tilton 6-bolt 200mm aluminum flywheel and Roadster pressure plate with a new clutch disk:

hIFedMd.jpg

 

In there, with freshly painted "Datsun OHC" cam cover:

ltkOYsm.jpg

 

The main things I need to do now are route, wrap and install the engine compartment harness, install the starter, alternator, radiator, exhaust system, and Zeke should be ready to fire up!

 


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#144 banzai510(hainz)

banzai510(hainz)

    L motor God

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 15,360 posts

Posted 20 January 2018 - 06:25 AM

LOve it


Throw on some Weber sidedrafts, Rising Sun hood.... call it good

#145 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 26 January 2018 - 09:04 PM

More progress this week, nothing major, just little things that need to get done. Installed the clutch slave hose, filled the clutch reservoir with fluid and bled the line- got a nice pedal now. Installed and adjusted the throttle cable. Installed the alternator, starter, oil pressure sender hose, fuel filter, fuel pressure gauge and fuel line to carbs. Filled the tranny with gear oil (Redline MT-90 GL4) and installed the shifter and boot. Installed a new 70" speedo cable ($8 from RockAuto- are you kidding me?).  Here's an overhead of the engine bay as it sits right now:

H1B5gjX.jpg

 

Clutch slave and hose installed:

msr9Gh7.jpg

 

Shifter:

t4TMYLp.jpg

 

Throttle pedal, lever and cable firewall feedthrough from inside:

eEx7aDd.jpg

 

Throttle cable feedthrough from engine side of firewall. This is a Mikuni cable kit which I think is unfortunately NLA:

h7fnv92.jpg

 

Speedo cable and grommet, engine side of firewall:

colWvpG.jpg

 

Speedo cable routing over bell housing:

f4fuYuM.jpg

 

Speedo cable connection at transmission. I had to rotate the sleeve 180 deg and file a new retainer flat on the sleeve body to use the proper pinion gear (I think it was 21t) to make the speedo accurate with a 4.38 rear gear and 23" tires. 

Akbl4eg.jpg

 

Passenger side of engine. Experimenting with placement of inspection lamp (far left) mounted to a lower bolt hole for the hood prop brace. Will need to drill 1 hole to attach the upper tab. I like this location as the unfurled lamp can reach and illuminate either side of engine.

5MzPEZc.jpg

 

The main hurdle now is to complete and install the engine compartment wiring harness. I ordered some new Hella relays for the headlights and horn, and a fused power distribution block for the headlight wiring. Once I get those I can finalize the wiring, wrap and install the harness. Zeke is getting really close to firing up!  


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#146 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 02 February 2018 - 09:24 PM

Happy Ground Hog's Day!  I've no idea if Punxsatawney Phil saw his shadow today, but if he was in SoCal he would've definitely needed some Ray Bans. Ok, whatever. Got a few things done this week on Zeke.  Drilled holes in the fender and installed the coil. Original holes were welded up (Randy was going to install an SR20), so it was sort of painful to redrill them.  You can also see the new repro data plate installed on the strut tower (both the strut tower and door jamb plates were missing when I bought the car).  

gaBX0jT.jpg

 

I also stamped and installed the repro door jamb plate. I had to file the holes in the plate a bit to get it to fit the existing holes.  It is installed with 1/8" rivets. Both plates were purchased from Zeddsaver.com, and I used a metal stamping set from Harbor Freight to imprint the numbers. 

MUsVxTH.jpg

 

Zeke was also missing sunvisors, but I scored a used pair from a friend's stash.  One was missing the 3-hole bracket that attaches it to the roof but fortunately I found one from DAPsupply.net.  These visors are in pretty good shape for being 45+ years old, but one was beige and the other was grey. Since Zeke has a black headliner, I sprayed them with Landau Black SEM vinyl spray paint and they turned out pretty good.

s3Cjw3q.jpg

fzZKjks.jpg

 

So far I've only found one of the proper chromed Phillips oval head pointed M5 screws that are used to attach the sunvisors, but I did find a place on line selling black ones for a 240Z so I might try those ($8/set). Here's what the OE screw looks like:

ZKYBrIW.jpg

 

I also wired up the main power and ground for the alternator, and installed a fused junction block.  In the following photo you can see the blue alternator ground wire going to the forward motor mount bolt, and the red power wire going to the junction block on the inner fender. Power comes from the battery to the junction block via the 8 gauge red wire you can see running along the top of the frame rail from the left. The junction block has two fused terminals (on left) that will be used for main power to the headlights via relays. There are two J-case fuses under the rectangular-ish rubber weatherproof cover immediately to the right of the bolt head.

EcZJyXI.jpg

 

I now have the Hella relays for the headlights in hand so the next step will be to finalize the relay mounting positions and then adapt and wire them with the modified factory underhood electrical harness. Zeke is really getting close to coming alive now!  


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#147 shacks510

shacks510

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,477 posts
  • Location:SoCal
  • Cars:'72 510 two-door

Posted 04 February 2018 - 02:26 PM

On the topic of headgaskets... I got some 88.5mm Nismo gaskets, and they do not have the large “kidney” shape hole at the back for coolant. Did your headgasket have the hole, or did you make one?
"FHRITP" - datzenmike

#148 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 05 February 2018 - 11:45 AM

The head gasket I installed is the bottom one in the pic below and I installed it as-is. I once ran the older style NISMO 88.5 gasket (top one in pic) on an L18 bored out to nearly 2 liters without opening up that water passage and it worked fine.

Vh8FNfr.jpg


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#149 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 08 February 2018 - 08:28 PM

Today's project was to mount the headlight and horn relays semi-discretely behind the RF strut tower. I found a few lengths of L shaped sheetmetal in my garage which was left by the previous homeowner. I think it might be the stuff used to waterproof roof edge beams (flashing?). Anyway, I cut a short length to which I could mount 4 relays side by side (Headlight switch, Hi beam circuit, Lo Beam circuit, and Horn).  These are Hella weatherproof relays which were purchased from Waytek. They are attached with 8mm ATF bolts and nuts, which I had on-hand, though I'm considering changing out the bolts for Phillips pan head screws for a cleaner look. 

PbS029n.jpg

 

kCToF94.jpg

 

I made a bracket to affix the assembly to the rear of the RF strut tower opposite the fuse box. There were already two holes there, so no drilling was required. Here is the relay assembly mounted to the strut tower. I plan to paint the cover black for a less conspicuous appearance, and maybe change out the hex head screws for Phillips pan head screws as well.

2FgWK4J.jpg

 

N0NBCCp.jpg

 

The L bracket under the cover has riv-nuts installed to facilitate relay access by simply removing the two hex cap screws on top to open the cover. Now I just need to wire the relays and integrate the rest of the underhood harness...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#150 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 09 February 2018 - 08:49 PM

Regarding the headlight re-wiring, I'm following the schematic pdf posted by Dimebag at The Realm:

http://www.the510rea...le.php?id=12529

 

Did a little (ok, very  little) wiring work today. First I labeled the relays. Yes, I still have a Dymo labeler.  If you are under 40 you've probably never even seen one of these.

yZmteiN.jpg

 

Here's the labeled and semi-wired relay assembly:

TVM611l.jpg


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#151 datsunfreak

datsunfreak

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,773 posts
  • Location:Arlington, TX
  • Cars:'73 1200 Coupe, '77 280Z

Posted 11 February 2018 - 01:01 PM

Yes, I still have a Dymo labeler.  If you are under 40 you've probably never even seen one of these.

 

 

Recently picked up two of those label guns at a yard sale for $1, with extra tape reels!   :thumbup:

 

Got home and decided to go on Amazon to see if they have new reels, and they not only have those, they also still sell the label guns new.   ^_^


It's your car, just don't ruin it.


This seems like an elaborate ploy to get me to say "I like the D".


#152 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 15 February 2018 - 10:46 PM

Been working on electrical lately.  After removing unnecessary wiring from the engine room harness, decided to test it out so I temporarily installed it. Looks like a total rat's nest unwrapped.

JBz8qvW.jpg

 

Connected the battery and fortunately everything works except the e-brake warning lamp switch which I will need to fix. I verified that the starter and fuel pump work. Dash lights, idiot lights, signals, hazards, horn, heater blower, wiper/washer, dome light and map light all work. I also finished hooking up the auxiliary water temp and oil pressure gauges, and they are showing signs of life.  Stoked!  Now I just need to wire in the new headlight and horn relay setup, finalize wire routing and lengths, then wrap the and install the harness for real.  Zeke is finally coming to life!  Here's a few shots showing headlight and exterior lights operating, along with lighting on the speedo and auxiliary gauges. 

EYTSUjw.jpg

 

2Ztn4Js.jpg

 

buMP53M.jpg

 

SPRK8dA.jpg


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#153 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 08 March 2018 - 08:49 PM

Long overdue update on Zeke:

 

I finally got the engine room wiring harness sorted and re-taped.  Here it is spread out on the floor, ready to go back in the car:

hOqY1ne.jpg

 

This is the tape I used, from Summit Racing:

R7T4N95.jpg

 

And here is how it looks with the headlight relays and wiring installed:

1DaDUMz.jpg

 

With the wiring completed, I could finally move on to the final and most exciting phase- firing up the engine!  I installed the radiator, fan and fan shroud. 

6PC0fGN.jpg

 

I installed the heater and radiator hoses. I had to order a hose barb for the block coolant inlet housing. You can see in the previous pic a blue Earls 1/2" hose barb-to-3/8" NPT fitting for the heater return line at the block coolant inlet housing. I think that is a 240Z housing because it doesn't have the vertical pipe for the intake manifold water line like a stock 510 housing, which is nice. Not sure why the stock heater hose barb was replaced with the Earls fitting, maybe because it was broken? Whatever, that's the way I got it. Anyway, turns out the 1/2" barb is too small for the stock Nissan heater hose (I had previously used double hose clamps to get it to seal), so I found an Edelbrock 5/8" hose barb -to 3/8" NPT that fits.  So here is what it looks like under the hood with everything installed and ready to go:

KLDIMN3.jpg

 

1Ts6s3r.jpg

 

Yesterday I filled the sump with 6 quarts of Valvoline VR1 30W oil (high Zinc), filled the radiator with 50/50 Zerex Japanese car antifreeze and made final preparations to fire the motor. I pulled the spark plugs, removed the valve cover, grounded the coil  and cranked over the motor on the starter to build oil pressure, but for some reason I couldn't get any. After much gnashing of teeth, testing of pressure senders, and dropping/priming the oil pump, I still couldn't get any indication of oil pressure or anything at the cam, so I gave up for the night, figuring I'd sort it out tomorrow. I did not sleep well.

 

Today was a new day and I felt optimistic. I decided to re-install the braided hose at the block sender hole and see if I could get anything out of the hose, since I knew the oil pump was fully priming.  Sure enough, after what seemed like forever cranking the motor (maybe 1 minute?), I got good oil flow out the sender port. Bolstered by this success, I re-connected the line to the gauge sender junction, and cranked her over again, and lo and behold, after about 20-30 sec, the cam lobes started gushing oil. Woohoo!  I guess I was just impatient and hadn't cranked it over long enough?  But we we have oil pressure now!

 

I then re-installed the plugs, cam cover, hooked up the plug wires, rolled Zeke out of the garage and prepared to finally fire up the engine. I had my timing light hooked up, a 10mm wrench for the distributor to adjust timing, a screwdriver to set idle speed, a jug of antifreeze to top up the radiator, and a fire extinguisher, just in case. It was the moment of truth. Now or never.

 

I switched on the fuel pump to fill the carb float bowls, gave the accelerator 2 or 3 good pumps, and hit the ignition switch. VROOM!!!  I could not believe how fast it lit off!  Those carbs were singing that throaty Mikuni song almost immediately! OMG, I pulled this carb setup off this very motor in 2001, stored 'em away in a box, and did nothing except bolt them back on and here it is, 17 years later, and they are running flawlessly, no leaks, nothing. Amazing.  Zeke lives!  

 

Tonight Tequila. Tomorrow we ride...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#154 Draker

Draker

    Ratsun-Erect

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,459 posts
  • Location:Eugene, Or
  • Cars:1971 2 door 510, 1969 4 door 510, 2002 Tacoma double cab

Posted 08 March 2018 - 10:24 PM

Very nice work!! Looks fantastic!


View my 69 510 4dr Sedan - Build Thread
View my 72 1200 Sedan - Build Thread
View my 71 510 2dr Sedan - Coming soon.. ish

http://drakers.pl510.info

#155 Roadster-ka

Roadster-ka

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 139 posts
  • Location:Vallejo
  • Cars:71 510 wagon

Posted 08 March 2018 - 11:06 PM

Congratulations! Looks beautiful.

#156 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 09 March 2018 - 11:08 PM

Was hoping to go for a test drive today, but found a couple of small puddles under the car this morning. Both were coolant. At least there's no oil leaks! The obvious culprit was the right rear most freeze plug from which I had previously noticed a slight weep after the initial coolant fill and engine run.  It was dry while warm and running, but after cool off there was some wetness in the join between the plug and the block.  I also noticed that it is installed too deep and slightly crooked, which is probably why it weeps. Here's the plug. You can see that it was driven in well below the block surface (unlike the other freeze plugs), and more so at the bottom than the top, though the camera angle tends to exaggerate the crookedness. The other freeze plugs are correctly installed just below flush with the block surface. 

lodk43M.jpg

 

Still, there was no obvious trail of wetness from the freeze plug down to the oil pan flange, yet clearly there was coolant dripping from the right rear edge of the "hammerhead" portion of the pan. So what I think may have been happening is that the coolant found leaking from the upper rad hose was dripping down the front cover to the oil pan flange (this was confirmed), then seeping along the pan flange across to the passenger side and back to the right rear before dripping onto the pan and floor. Today I adjusted the valves, tightened the upper  hose clamp, and also tightened the leaking temp sender adapter in the thermostat housing, and ran the engine for about 15 minutes to get everything up to temp.  So far, no drips, but won't really know for sure if the freeze plug weep is significant until tomorrow morning. Everything is still dry as of now, about 6 hours after last running the engine.

 

Assuming the coolant leaks are under control, in order to go for a maiden test drive I need to bleed the brakes again (pedal still not quite as firm as I would like), oil and install the air cleaner, and install a seat belt.  All in all, though, I'm pretty happy. Engine runs good, no oil leaks, and no smoke from the exhaust. Exhaust is very subdued, more intake growl than exhaust rasp, which is exactly what I was after for this car.

 

Tonight, mas Tequila, perhaps tomorrow we ride...

 

 


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#157 shacks510

shacks510

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,477 posts
  • Location:SoCal
  • Cars:'72 510 two-door

Posted 14 March 2018 - 08:13 PM

What do you think the chances are of Zeke being able to attend the Randy York memorial cruise?
"FHRITP" - datzenmike

#158 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 18 March 2018 - 06:43 PM

I'm not ruling out the possibility of making the cruise yet, but chances are slim.  I did finally take a few laps around the block in Zeke yesterday, so it was a happy St. Patrick's day. The car runs and drives pretty good!  Super stoked to finally have Zeke back out on the street after all these years.  The brake pedal is still a little soft. I can't lock 'em up, but the pedal was getting firmer with more stops. I need to do a proper bedding-in, like 10 hard stops in a row from 40 or 50 mph. Get the pads/shoes good and hot, then let 'em cool.  That approach has worked well for me in the past. 

 

Also, I've been trouble shooting what appears to be low oil pressure. The pressure gauge was reading only 25-30 psi above 3000RPM and the warning lamp was coming on at idle after my test drive. Today I figured out that the gauge pressure sender body was not grounded. There was about 150 Ohms of resistance between the case and ground. Once I grounded the gauge sender case the gauge indicated about 50 psi cold at idle, and that went up to about 65-70 psi at 2000 RPM, which is more like it. So off I went for another test drive today, and once the oil warmed up I still had about 65 psi at 3000 RPM, but at idle it was down to about 12-15 psi, which is not bad except that the idiot light was still coming on.  I've already shimmed the pressure regulator spring in the oil pump by placing a ~1mm washer in the cap, so not sure at this point if the issue is the warning lamp sender or the oil pump, but now I think I can trust the gauge .  I have a longer regulator spring from a high volume ZX-T oil pump that I might try, and I also have a few other used warning lamp senders that I can try. So, as of today Zeke has clocked a total of 4.5 miles and maybe 75 minutes of run time on the motor. I can't see taking him up into the mountains on Angeles Crest next weekend, but perhaps we can make the pre-run meet up?  We shall see how it goes this week...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#159 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 226 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 21 March 2018 - 12:30 PM

Got the oil pressure warning lamp issue solved!  Turns out that I had installed a 30 psi sender switch. No wonder the warning lamp was coming on at idle!  I had on hand two used stock 510 switches with the bullet connector and another nearly new one with a spade connector, so naturally I installed the newer one. Whoops. I hadn't noticed the much higher switching pressure when bench testing beforehand, and I had totally forgotten that I once used the 30psi switch for an auxiliary low oil pressure warning lamp that I installed in the seatbelt warning lamp hole in the dash of my SR car.  This was back when I was doing lots of track days. I got annoyed that it would come on at idle, so I swapped it for a 20psi switch which solved that problem. The spade connector and NPT thread should have tipped me off when I installed it into Zeke.  Fortunately I had previously purchased a 1/8" NPT to 1/8" BSP adapter for this very purpose, so I have installed a stock 510 switch and all should be well.  Now, I just need to wait out this rain storm  so I can put some serious shake-down miles on Zeke...  


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#160 Roadster-ka

Roadster-ka

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 139 posts
  • Location:Vallejo
  • Cars:71 510 wagon

Posted 21 March 2018 - 01:56 PM

Big sigh of relief?