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"Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr


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#41 toylet

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 03:16 PM

FYI you have the front rotors on the wrong side so now you should just swap the struts..lol. They are directional rotors. Also I would get fully insulated male spade connectors for the license plate lights, looks like the connectors could short to ground the way you have them.



#42 Tedman

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 05:20 PM

FYI you have the front rotors on the wrong side so now you should just swap the struts..lol. They are directional rotors. Also I would get fully insulated male spade connectors for the license plate lights, looks like the connectors could short to ground the way you have them.

 

Actually, they are correct according to the instructions, and the way they were marked and packaged as L and R. I would have been inclined to install them the other way, too, as it just seems more intuitive.

Hjqv3RK.jpg

 

Good point about the spade connectors. Fortunately, a good friend donated some OE style bullet connectors to the cause (thanks Michael!), so as soon as I get the proper crimp tool I'll be redoing that trunk wiring.

pEmRnll.jpg


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#43 toylet

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Posted 28 April 2017 - 08:36 PM

I am used to seeing brembo and powerstop rotors going in the opposite direction. Carry on with the awesome build

#44 Tedman

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Posted 03 May 2017 - 08:58 PM

Today I brought the car back home after the driver's side floor was replaced at my friend's shop. Here we are back in the driveway ready to unload.

0lwrzHm.jpg

 

The install of the replacement floor looks to be top notch. Here's a pic of the new floor and a pic of all the old sheet metal that was removed and tossed into the passenger footwell. :

Lj9Nkos.jpg

 

0dL6uUm.jpg

 

I will need to apply some seam sealer along the outboard perimeter of the floor repair to fully protect it.  I also had the LF fender repaired and fitted, and had the front fender arches rolled for tire clearance. The rears had already been done. I will be pulling the fender back off the car and sending it out for repaint along with the front spoiler that will be going onto the car. Feeling pretty good about finally getting that floor and fender damage fixed!


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"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#45 Tedman

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Posted 05 May 2017 - 09:06 PM

Decided to rebuild the driver's side lower door hinge yesterday. I had replaced the upper hinge with a rebuilt one hoping it would cure my sagging door. No such luck. The lower hinge was even more worn out than the upper. So I purchased a hinge repair kit from Troy Ermish. Before attempting to fix the lower hinge, I decided to first try and fix the worn out upper hinge that was removed from Zeke. This went well as I was able to punch out the old hinge pin with a drift and hammer, and install the new bushings and pin. Now I have a good spare upper hinge.

hYmLxHg.jpg

 

It was with this new found confidence that I tackled the lower hinge, which proved to be much more of a challenge. I should note that the spring was missing from this hinge, and to date I have made no attempt to find or install a spring. I understand it's a PITA. As for the hinge, I could not get the hinge pin to budge, even using a 3lb sledge with my drift. So off to TSR for some pro help. Mario was able to remove the pin and worn out plastic bushings. He also bead blasted the hinge parts for me. It was at this point that I may have solved the mystery of Zeke's original paint color. Under the red paint there was a distinct layer of yellow!  Until now, I have not found any evidence of the original color on this car, so this was a revelation. Here you can see the yellow paint which looks very similar to the period factory yellow. Of course, no guarantees that this was an original hinge, but it's the most promising info I have to date regarding the original color:

nTsv8G3.jpg

 

I painted the hinge with rust preventative black paint and re-installed it.

r2IqAUH.jpg

 

Took me a few hours of fiddling to get the door re-aligned and latching properly, but stoked to have solid door hinges in Zeke!

 


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#46 Tedman

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Posted 07 May 2017 - 10:05 PM

So I've been trying to figure out why my steering wheel doesn't fit on Zeke. The signal cancelling pins bottom out before the steering wheel hub is fully seated. This happens with a stock wheel, and with both Datsun hub adapters (Momo and Formuling) that fit just fine on my other '72 510. I pulled the wheel off my other '72 with known original column and it's obvious that the upper column on Zeke is different. Here's the known good '72:

 

QSTNp7w.jpg

 

And here is what is in Zeke, also a '72:

u10uYFN.jpg

It's totally different. There is no snap ring, nor provision for a snap ring, and the distance from the end of the shaft to the bearings is shorter by at least 1cm, which would explain the hub fitment problem.  You can see from the next two pics the difference in length from the end of the shaft to the bearing carrier surface. 1st the "good" '72, then Zeke (after I pulled the upper column out of the car):
EPpfnrX.jpg

 

RskaGeN.jpg

 

It would appear that this is not the correct upper column for a '72 USDM 510. Here's a pic of the entire thing:

zqfpZKN.jpg

 

You can also see that the oval cutout for the ignition lock in the inner shaft is misregistered with the hole in the outer shaft.  Here's a closeup. The steering wheel end would be to the right:

Qnm7pq5.jpg

 

This would explain why the ignition lock only worked intermittently. There is just barely enough overlap of the oval hole to occasionally engage the steering lock. Curious, I stuck a large screwdriver blade into the oval hole and tried to gently lever the inner shaft to the right. There was spring-like resistance, and it would move, but was threatening to spill out all of the ball bearings at the steering wheel end, so I let it be for now.  I have no idea where this shaft came from. Here's another pic of the hub end which might help someone to possibly identify it:

tGp1YQE.jpg

 

At any rate, it looks like I'll have to source a proper '72 upper steering column for Zeke (anyone got one you want to sell?).  I'm bummed because I just noticed in the events section that there was a Datsun swapmeet in Long Beach today which could have been a great opportunity. Oh well...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#47 Tedman

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Posted 08 May 2017 - 09:16 PM

Well, today I figured out what the problem is with the steering column.  Someone had removed the snap ring, and since the shaft is spring loaded inside the column (learned that from the parts book), the spring expands, recessing the shaft into the column tube by about 1/4"-3/8".  With enough force on the lower end of the shaft I was able to compress the spring and push the shaft out far enough to expose the snap ring groove. I took some measurements and plan to visit the local hardware store to see if they have a suitable snap ring as it is NLA from Nissan, or I might have to order one from McMaster Carr or the like.

 

Here's the column in my vice. I used a couple of exhaust clamps to hold the column tube while pressing a large socket against the shaft to push it back out towards the steering wheel end.  The second pic is a closeup of the column end where you can now see the exposed snap ring groove.

YRS5gtw.jpg  

dAav5IS.jpg

 

Relieved to finally get this sorted out. Now my steering wheel will fit AND the ignition lock should work the way it's supposed to!  


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#48 Tedman

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Posted 09 May 2017 - 09:13 PM

Got my steering column re-installed today. Everything fits properly and works as intended. All it took was a 75 cent snap ring (1" size) from Ace Hardware, and a pair of snap ring pliers from Harbor Freight. Here' the end of the column with the snap ring installed.

tqItmB4.jpg

 

In 510s I like my steering wheels a little lower than stock height, so I lowered the column with these hard plastic hexagonal spacers. I think they are actually seat spacers from a 240Z.

wOutwy5.jpg

 

Installed the ignition switch, signal lever assy, and new steering wheel. Everything works perfectly now! 

geuU99I.jpg

 

Also bought a tube of seam sealer today, so re-sealing the new floor will be my next task. Unfortunately, I have to report for jury duty on 510 Day tomorrow, which really sucks!  Hoping they let us go early and I have time to work on the car.  Happy 510 Day!


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#49 Tedman

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Posted 18 May 2017 - 09:10 PM

Been a while since I last updated- 

 

Re-did the rear sidemarker and license light wiring using proper factory style bullet connectors. 

Mm65UUj.jpg

 

RewxYYk.jpg

 

Seam sealed the floor repair. Used this stuff, Dynatron No. 550 Gray:

2zHwmiDb.jpg

 

 

ObsXJlR.jpg

 

QnhCETj.jpg

 

gAVDE92.jpg

 

Bought some brush-on paint today to cover the seam sealer and coat some surfaces under the frame rails that have escaped painting thus far. 

 

Also installed the Suspension Techniques (ST) 1" front anti-roll bar and TMC adjustable end link kit. Next steps are to get the repaired and straightened LF fender painted, and sort the engine compartment wiring harness...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#50 Tedman

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Posted 26 May 2017 - 06:41 PM

Made some more progress over the last week. Sent the straightened LF fender out for paint, along with the front spoiler. Hope to get them back next week. Brad still has left over paint from when he originally painted the car in 2008 for Randy, so we were able to verify that it was painted BMW Bright Red #314. Brad recalls the car being red or orange originally. Based on what I can see, I'd say it's a pretty good bet it was originally the same color as my other '72, #905 Cherry Red, which some call tomato red since it has a lot of orange in it.

 

While the fender and spoiler are out getting painted, I did some painting myself. Got a couple quarts of gray Rustoleum Hammered finish paint.

HYtjc5B.jpg

 

Painted over the red oxide primer on the repaired floor:

YToiR1n.jpg

 

Then I got more ambitious and decided to paint the fender wells and inner fenders. Seeing how much easier it would be with the fender removed, I decided to remove the RF fender as well. Here's the LF fender well after I had scraped off any loose undercoating and degreased:

QaaPB56.jpg

 

And after brushing on a coat of Rustoleum:

 

xFHqqQT.jpg

 

AQ8750q.jpg

 

Did the same on the RF fender well:

N8rH5AO.jpg

 

You might also notice that the entire new front suspension I had previously installed has been removed. It was just easier to paint without the struts and stuff in the way. Also, I needed to remove the front crossmember and TC rods to paint the underside of the frame rails and TC boxes which hadn't been previously addressed. 

 

While the RF fender was off, I coated the inside. I'll do the same when I get the LF back from Brad. 

b5J9BWd.jpg

 

Once I get the front crossmember re-installed, I can support the car under the crossmember and finish painting the underside of the floor repair. Then I plan to paint the rear fender wells in the same fashion.  In the meantime, I will need to scrub/degrease the rear fender wells in prep for paint. Then, finally, all the messy work under the car will be a thing of the past and I can get on with assembly!

 

 


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#51 carterb

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Posted 26 May 2017 - 07:56 PM

Your car looks really solid Ted.  Not much rust-repair required.

 

Looking great!

 

--carter



#52 Tedman

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Posted 26 May 2017 - 08:17 PM

Yup, except for the driver's side front floor this is a solid rust free car. Must have been a windshield leak for the driver's side floor to get so bad. I didn't highlight it, but tire shredding incident ripped out and exposed a very rusty floor repair. Otherwise, SoCal climate has been nice to Zeke... 


-Tedman

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#53 Tedman

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Posted 03 June 2017 - 09:26 PM

Made some modest progress this week:

- Finished painting the underside of the floor repair, frame rails, core support and T/C boxes in gray hammertone

- Re-installed the front suspension 

- Re-installed the RF fender and eye brow trim (still waiting for LF Fender to come back from paint!)

- Installed and aligned the rear bumper

- Installed the tail light assemblies with new Euro lenses

- Installed the new front Euro turn signal assemblies

- Installed the headlight buckets

- Installed the lower grille surround

- Installed the grille

 

Here's the tidied up wiring for the tail lights, right then left:
y83oFMu.jpg

 

zBMMQZx.jpg

 

From the outside with the bumper installed. I really like the look of the shaved license lights:

tlutb3H.jpg

 

And from the front with the grille and turn signals installed (still need to install that hood trim!):

vFoGbdw.jpg

 

Looking forward to getting the LF fender back, coating the inside and putting it back on the car to finally make it whole again!  

 


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#54 Tedman

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Posted 09 June 2017 - 11:17 PM

Installed the dash top metal fascia and NOS dash pad which I have been saving for probably 20 years:

IgcZ4Mv.jpg

 

Scrubbed and degreased the rear fender wells with Simple Green in prep for application of the gray hammer finish Rustoleum. This car is super dry and the factory undercoat is still in excellent condition. I could probably get by without doing anything here but decided to go ahead and paint to match the fronts. For posterity's sake, here are some before pics: 

 

LR inner fender, fore, top, aft, and inner arch:

UzbEfXq.jpg

 

dfpgYm6.jpg

 

ASsv3yb.jpg

 

lGU0D0q.jpg

 

RR aft, top, fore and inner arch:

VYV8kwp.jpg

 

bnKlsA0.jpg

 

mrG9COc.jpg

 

SlbjV1Z.jpg

 

Will post after pics when I get a chance...

 

Also, been working on rejuvenating the dash panels and sorting out the dash fastener hardware. It's amazing how much time I spend searching for, sorting through, and cleaning up old screws, nuts and washers. Very time consuming. Glad I have another '72 2dr for reference.

 

A few small parts I still need (in case anyone has spares you'd be willing to part with, let me know):

1. Heater blower switch

2. Windshield washer nozzle

3. Hood release cable clamp 

4. Heater firewall grommet covers 

 

Carry on...

  


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#55 Tedman

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 10:51 AM

Got my new heater firewall grommets so I was able to re-install the heater assy and dash controls. What a PITA!  Key was to remove the defroster box retaining screws so the defroster box could be pushed up farther under the dash and provide clearance for the heater assy to fit underneath.  Also helped to remove the passenger side water tube.  Here it is re-installed:

V5OA6Hl.jpg

 

NOS heater control cables came with the car so those have been installed. I installed the optional map light switch in the seatbelt warning light hole to the right of the heater controls.  I still need to find a heater blower switch for the left side.

 

Here's a pic of a heater tube grommet cover that goes on the engine bay side of the firewall. I temporarily pulled this one off my other '72. Anyone have a pair they'd part with?:

Tb8BCTQ.jpg

 

 


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#56 Tedman

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 09:10 PM

Put the rest of the dash and instrument cluster back together this afternoon. I had previously cleaned all of the dash panels which were various shades of faded, and then treated them with 303 Aerospace UV spray protectant. I'm impressed with this stuff which was recommended by a friend. I guess it's popular with boaters. Anyway, it brings back the black to the faded plastic and leaves a nice matte finish, not all shiny and greasy looking like a lot of products. Sorry, my phone cam kind of sucks in low light, but here's a pic:

MQ1DWSn.jpg

 

I am planning to put water temp and oil pressure gauges in the radio cut out. Still need to sort out a few wires for the signal stalk, flashers and driver's door light switch, then I can install the clamshell on the column and the dash will be pretty much done!  Now I really need to get to work on that engine room harness...  


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#57 Lockleaf

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Posted 15 June 2017 - 07:17 PM

When i saw your pic i was going to comment on how much nicer your dash appeared than mine. I also just barely for mine installed again for the first in over a year. Then i read your comment and now i apparently need to go buy me some 303.

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720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#58 Tedman

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Posted 16 June 2017 - 09:13 PM

Nothing major, but made a little more progress...

 

Scored some heater firewall grommet covers (thanks, Seth!). Cleaned, painted and installed:

YaPxnZc.jpg

 

Miraculously, I managed to find all of those long, thin, fine thread screws for the steering column clamshell surround, so I go that cleaned up and installed:

UdUkCoc.jpg

Did the old 24hr vinegar soak on the fuse block, and it cleaned up real nice:

ChejY9W.jpg

 

jYbvvbi.jpg

 

I could have sworn I had a spare fuse block cover around here somewhere, but can't seem to find it. Still in need of a heater switch and some washer nozzles...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#59 Tedman

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Posted 17 June 2017 - 09:17 PM

Alright, so only minor stuff accomplished today between household chores and watching 24 Hours of LeMans. Americans (Corvette and Ford GT) are getting butt-kicked by Aston Martin, so not looking good. 

 

Anyway, I did do a couple things on Zeke. Installed a 2.5 Trans Am badge on the glove box door.  These repro badges tend to fit loosely and sag, but with a few strategic pieces of double-stick tape it's on there tightly now. Also, you can see the shiny new side vent. Bought a pair of 240Z vents from Motorsport Auto. They look great but the fuzzy felt stuff in the dash panel aperture has thinned with age, so they are kind of floppy in there. Need to figure out a way to fix that.

RvF3i5p.jpg

 

Another easy task between commercials- removed what was left of the delaminating original tire pressure sticker from the inside of the glove box door and applied the repro I got from Zeddsaver. It's not 100% faithful to the original but still looks good.

yMQCVrW.jpg

 

Here's the original so you can see the differences, in case anyone gives a s#!+.    

1JCJEuN.jpg

 

Oh, and another thing I did between commercials is install the door bump rubbers that I also got from Zeddsavers.  Hey man, every little bit helps! Back to the race...

 

Wow, just noticed a gaffe in the repro sticker- should read 28psi across the board in the last row, but shows 20psi front in second to last column...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#60 Tedman

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Posted 19 June 2017 - 09:30 PM

Got a message back from Norm at Zeddsavers thanking me for pointing out the typo on the glove box sticker. He's going to have another run made and send a replacement. Fair deal.

 

Another somewhat rare part I bought probably 15-20 years ago and decided to use for this build, a NOS under-dash package tray. Today I decided to give it a test fit.

HjmTcOl.jpg

 

vim3uLN.jpg

 

Here it is temporarily installed. I still need to decide what to do for kick panels:

N6aWX4e.jpg

 

Another part I had in my stash was this rubber seal which I always thought was for the gap between the tail light panel and the rear bumper, but have since come to realize that it's actually a cowl seal as it's too short for the bumper.

8DmSnGN.jpg

 

Rare is the 510 with this seal still intact! Here's a pic of the seal installed (but not yet glued) on the cowl lip.

xEZeJt3.jpg

 

I think that is the proper orientation, though I have not yet found a good reference photo of a factory installed seal.  As you can see from the previous pic, in cross-section there's a convex and a concave side. You can also see in cross-section that the concave edge is slightly longer. This side needs to be facing forward otherwise the long edge will bottom in the cowl gutter before the slit bottoms on the gutter lip. Kind of hard to explain, but here's edge views with it installed backwards, and then what I believe to be correct:

nZxYOMh.jpg

 

idy1PSj.jpg  

 

For now I'm going to hold off gluing this seal until I can confirm orientation.    


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon