Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

"Zeke"- '72 510 2Dr


  • Please log in to reply
128 replies to this topic

#21 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 19 March 2017 - 09:20 PM

A few comments on why I chose the 13/16" brake master. Simply put, I like the pedal feel on my SR car with 280ZX front brakes and stock rear drums. This seems to be a good compromise between stock 3/4" and the 280Z 7/8". One obvious difference is that the bleeders are on the fender side. So what? How often do you bleed the BMC? And when you do, just stick a hose on the nipple and drain where convenient. Here's a pic of the BMC:

kTUHPot.jpg

 

The only issue is that you need to use a plunger rod boot without a flange since there's no provision for the flange on the 13/16" BMC. Here's a side by side with the stock 510 3/4" BMC on the left.

ncHknLn.jpg

 

The flangeless "Tokico" boot fits perfectly:

aWq2mmZ.jpg

 

ByO0kgK.jpg

 

O7HyUXC.jpg

 

QEM71dr.jpg

 

So there you go...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#22 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 21 March 2017 - 08:17 PM

I noticed in an older photo of a rear brake install on my other 510 that the shorter "single" spring was at the top and the longer "double" spring was a the bottom. This is opposite of how I installed them on this car (see pic in post #15). Sure enough, the FSM confirmed that I goofed. So today I had to pull the drums and rectify the situation. Just goes to show that it's always good to double check the FSM. Now they are correct:

7SZZtjI.jpg


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#23 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:45 PM

While I've been waiting on front brake parts to come in, turned my attention to the heater assy which was missing from Zeke. I had sourced a blower and heater core from the Eagle Rock swapmeet, and had the core refurb'd at a local radiator shop:

raqHI8u.jpg

ZXtThmB.jpg

 

Recently I was able to acquire the original heater/blower assy from Zeke. Unfortunately the core outlet is on the passenger side vs. the unit I had sourced. Here's the blower assy and you can see the pipe from the heater core on the left. Reference the previous pic, you can see there is no provision for the core pipe on the left side.

dSjBA7S.jpg

Here's a side-by-side of the two types of heater core:

IFaVVg7.jpg

 

Unfortunately the original core leaked. Here's my test apparatus:

L7Q4OD9.jpg

 

And here you can see the foamy leakage above the capped inlet tube:

ICDDd0m.jpg

 

My plan is to use the refurb'd core and appropriate heater blower assy, which is actually in much better shape than the original.  

 

I still need to source a heater valve. The original one leaks. For the hell of it I disassembled the heater valve. Here's a pic of the disassembled valve. Note that I had soaked the tubing in vinegar for a few hours before this photo. They really clean up nicely after the vinegar bath:

3NcHEXk.jpg

 

Here's the plunger assy which has three rubber seals which harden over time and leak:

f7VVH63.jpg

And here's the plunger assy blown apart to show, from R to L: c-clip, piston, rubber seal, washer, c-clip, washer, rubber seal, plastic ring, rubber seal, plunger cap, metal rod.

4kPVv1d.jpg

 

I've got a tentative line on a replacement valve, keeping fingers crossed...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#24 shacks510

shacks510

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 1,455 posts
  • Location:SoCal
  • Cars:'72 510 two-door

Posted 30 March 2017 - 09:54 PM

You really should use the spherical bearings in the trailing arms with the DP adjustable crossmember. Urethane bushings are fine if the crossmember is stock and you aren't adjusting camber/toe. The bushings need to give when adjusting camber, and that's when normal bushings start to bind. Same deal when dialing caster using adjustable tension rods. I'd be surprised if you could even move the trailing arm with urethane.
"FHRITP" - datzenmike

#25 Lockleaf

Lockleaf

    Hall Monitor

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,343 posts
  • Location:Happy Valley, Utah
  • Cars:'71 510 Goon, '90 240SX, '85 720, '69 Roadster, '96 Pathfinder, too much other shite

Posted 31 March 2017 - 07:49 AM

There is an entire thread dedicated to the rebuild or replacement of the 510 heater valves. In it are two modern part numbers that could be fairly easily retrofitted in to a 510.

Half Pint ('71 510 Goon) http://community.rat...agon/p?=1269361

 

Audrey ('69 Roadster 1600) http://community.rat...rey-the-ratster

 

Tiny Havok ('85 720 DIY built Crewcab 4x4) http://community.rat...ache/?p=1395455

 

720 Shenanigans http://community.rat...20-shenanigans/


#26 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 31 March 2017 - 03:48 PM

Thanks, Lockleaf. I think this is the thread?

http://community.rat...lve-leak/page-1

Anyway, the take away for me was that the O-ring seals are available at hardware stores or Napa, sizes 007 and 115. I'm going to try this. Unfortunately the 620 heater valve that people were cannibalizing is now NLA.

 

Shack, thanks. Yes, I'm well aware of the binding issue with urethane bushings in the control arms when using an adjustable crossmember. That said, I have been running prothane bushings in my DPR crossmember in my SR car for 20 yrs, and they still haven't gone wonky. I know it's a compromise and I'm sure they have probably worn faster than if they were installed in a non-adjustable crossmember, but I have noticed no ill effects regarding handling or alignment. Not a daily driver, but it's probably gone >50,000 hard driving miles since installation.  So, I chose to go that route again, and spend the $$ for the spherical bearing kit on other things. When I redo the SR car, it will get be getting the full monoball treatment...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#27 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 31 March 2017 - 04:23 PM

Meanwhile, got the heater assembly all back together (except for the valve) after cleaning, painting and replacing the weather stripping. Cleaned and painted the plastic plenum:

nNRGdF6b.jpg

 

Here's the flapper door and blower closeout painted with new weather stripping:

wX2V4Wt.jpg

 

Heater core back in with new outlet hose routed to firewall pipe:

SXR03T1.jpg

 

Plenum re-installed:

d160eUg.jpg

 

Missing one of the two clips that clamp the bottom of the plenum.  Add that to the list of annoying little parts that need to be tracked down...

RxvdFQl.jpg

 

Just need to finish rebuilding the valve assy and the heater/blower assy will be pretty much ready to go back in the car!


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#28 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 01 April 2017 - 07:52 PM

Went to Ace Hardware today for heater valve O-rings. The part numbering did not coincide with the 007 and 115 #'s from the previous referenced thread, but we matched the originals up to these. Since I had two valves to rebuild, picked up a pair of each size at $0.59 each. 

d0iYhrq.jpg

 

 Re-assembled the valve assy using the new O-rings and lubed everything up with Permatex silicone grease:

vXZzmQHb.jpg

 

Happy to report that both valves are now leak free and operating good as new!  Here's my test apparatus. Used a portable tire inflator compressor, with one of the inflatables adapters that was supplied with compressor jammed into a 5/16 hose jammed into a 5/8" hose. Filled the heater valve assy with water and pressurized with the tire inflator to 30-35 psi. No leaks whatsoever on both valves. Stoked!

KQBIeMt.jpg

 

DGi6tN3.jpg

 

Here's the refurbished valve assy installed on the heater/blower assy, which is now ready for re-installation into the car. Almost looks brand new!

o4Tjy79.jpg

 

In other news, Some parts have come in over the last few days. Koni strut inserts (AW11 MR2 rears):

rtDRCBS.jpg

 

S13 H&R 15mm spacers, which come with the longer 12x1.25 wheel studs which is a nice touch. These will need to be slightly machined to fit over the 280ZX hubs.

psT4VoD.jpg

 

Stoptech slotted 280ZX rotors:

T2jLfjB.jpg

 

ZX front wheel bearings and speedbleeders:

6B9oMCU.jpg

 

Length comparison between the 280ZX Tokico Illumina BZ3038 (14 7/8") and the MR2 Koni 8641-1142SP  (13 5/8"):

dbjJ2aF.jpg

 

Looking forward to getting my shortened struts back from TSR. Hopefully The Keeper hasn't forgot about those ZX hubs I still need. Still working on sourcing some ZX calipers...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#29 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 05 April 2017 - 08:59 PM

Still waiting on some parts.  Front calipers and hubs are on the way. Advanced Auto Parts/CARQUEST is the only place I could find remanufactured 280zx calipers with brackets. TSR is almost done with my struts.  In the meantime, today I decided to clean the grimy tranny tunnel. Here it is after rustproofing:

 

JyGwOcQ.jpg

 

Also blacked out the front of the radiator core support like they did at the factory. Makes the grille look so much better without a body colored background in my opinion.

88wFYsJ.jpg

 

Here's how the car looks currently with no driveline, rear suspension done and some stock 510 struts on Mulholland springs temporarily installed with 14" Libres so I can roll it out of the garage. I think the Roadster Comp rear springs cut 3/4 coil will be about right ride height-wise once it's at fighting weight.

3gAHPh7.jpg


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#30 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 11 April 2017 - 08:55 PM

Still waiting on struts...

Meanwhile, 280ZX hubs were delivered (Thanks, James!). They are in real good shape. Stripped down, degreased, ready for painting:

PMjDJnR.jpg

 

Painted, with bearing races and wheel studs installed:

x40IwHK.jpg

 

EDyN0Xf.jpg

 

Wheel studs are NISMO 50mm. Long studs for S13 supplied with the H&R hub spacers were too fat at the knurl to press into hub:

C77AqxQb.jpg

 

280ZX Brake calipers from Advance Auto Parts were delivered.  Not bad for $41.99 ea plus $5.00 core charge. Already have the Porterfield R-4S pads for 'em: 

oiVadT9.jpg

 

Something I've been kind of putting off for fear of messing up the new headliner is installing the interior c-pillar vents. Fortunately I have another '72 2dr to take measurements as to where to cut.  Not having any vents to start with, found a set of beige vents at the Eagle Rock swap meet and painted them black (also sprayed the plastic B-pillar garnish at the same time):

f1dEnhv.jpg

 

First incision into pristine headliner:

pw1dJEv.jpg

 

Left side done. Other side also went well:

ObENrdJ.jpg

 

With any luck I should get my shortened coil-over 280ZX struts back any day now. I have every thing ready to install- hubs, bearings, calipers, rotors, pads, brake hoses,  springs, camber plates.  Really looking forward to finishing up the front suspension...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#31 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 15 April 2017 - 12:09 AM

Nothing too special to report today, but some minor progress has been made. I try to adhere to the philosophy of "do something each day" towards your goal. No matter how big or small, at least get something done! So I began re-installing the wire looms, beginning with cabin/trunk loom. The new rear side marker lights that came with the car had spade connectors, so not being one to cut wires unnecessarily, I made adapters to go from spade to bullet. Maybe I'll snip the spade connectors all together and splice in bullet connectors for a cleaner look...or not. After all, it's in the trunk.

 

FK7tvLh.jpg

 

Here's the side marker installed on the fender. It took a surprising amount of effort to get the stainless frame to seat properly into the rubber seal:

z192UcT.jpg

 

On to a different bullet. Randy had shaved the license plate lights and installed hot rod style bullet LED license plate lights on his "Snoop Dog" wagon. These lights do double duty as they attach the plate to the car, and also illuminate it. I found a pair in the parts assortment that came with Zeke. Since the license plate lights had been shaved, clearly he intended to go the same route with this car. The LED lamps are terminated in bare wire, so I soldered spade connectors to the LED lights and crimped t-connectors to the factory license light wires in the loom. This way, the loom remains intact in case a future owner wishes to revert to stock license lights. Here's the lamps installed:

PSx2iRe.jpg

 

And here's the wiring:

wMHQWIy.jpg

 

I also re-installed the dash loom. The female connector to the turn signal indicators had been cut off. It attaches to the instrument binnacle 3-prong male connector shown here:

joIIiSX.jpg

 

I found a throttle switch assembly in my parts stash which fortunately has the mating female 3-prong connector which I can cannibalize.

uJu0Jgo.jpg

Since I'm on to the dash bits, I realized I was missing the cigarette lighter. Some scrounging in my parts bins turned up this one, which came from my very first 510, a '71 2dr that met its ultimate demise in a landfill circa early '80s.

 

EynTUCB.jpg

 

One last triviality- here's what can be done with two minutes and a silver Sharpie:

eR7qqtG.jpg

 

I've got a few wires to sort under the dash, then it's on to the engine compartment loom...


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#32 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 15 April 2017 - 07:40 PM

Got a call from TSR to come pick up my modified struts today. Woohoo!  Behold:

Lsa7bTp.jpg

 

Those hex gland nuts are the round ones supplied with the Koni inserts that have been machined by TSR to hex. Gotta get a coat of paint on the strut housings, then I can assemble and install and the suspension and brakes will be complete!


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#33 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 20 April 2017 - 08:24 PM

Finally installed the front struts and brakes today. Stoked! Zeke's new suspension and brakes are now complete.

 

hAlL2D9.jpg

 

fBqf9Ab.jpg

 

Ride height is coming down. Here's Zeke sitting on his new suspension for the first time (still no drivetrain installed):

wm4JsNA.jpg

 

Next up, send the car out to have the driver's side front floor repaired. I had the LF fender straightened and will be sending that out to get repainted, along with an Interpart Spook. Meanwhile I can work on pruning the engine room harness of unnecessary wires. Also, it's getting to be time to dig out my old crate L20B and start freshening it up. The plan is to install new bearings, rings and get the bottom end balanced. The closed chamber A87 head could probably use a valve job, too. It's got a nice .480/280 cam in it with larger valves.  I've got a set of 44PHH Mikunis with short runner intake that are already set up for this combo. Thinking I might be willing to sacrifice a little top end and run the stock exhaust manifold. Less noise, underhood heat and expense vs. a proper Tri-Y L20B header. I also have a good 280ZX 5-speed with shortened driveshaft and modified tranny mount, plus a 6-bolt 200mm Tilton aluminum flywheel and Roadster clutch kit for it.  Should make for a nice setup for street and occasional A/X or track day.    

 


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#34 Stoney

Stoney

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 128 posts
  • Location:Australia
  • Cars:Modern datsuns (R34 400kw)

Posted 26 April 2017 - 05:33 PM

Impressive update!



#35 datsunfreak

datsunfreak

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,257 posts
  • Location:Arlington, TX
  • Cars:'73 1200 Coupe, '77 280Z

Posted 26 April 2017 - 06:01 PM

You know, if you haven't bled the brakes yet, you should really swap the struts side-to-side.  ;)


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#36 Doctor510

Doctor510

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPip
  • 647 posts
  • Location:Mesa, AZ
  • Cars:Many 510's

Posted 26 April 2017 - 06:47 PM

Nice work!



#37 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 26 April 2017 - 08:58 PM

I know about the caliper/tie-rod interference issue with 280ZX struts/brakes on a 510, but I've always used 1" RCAs. I suppose I've remained blissfully ignorant to the possibility that there could still be an interference issue with well worn pads.  I'm pretty sure I've gone well past 50% pad life without issue, but since you've got me wondering, I think I'll make some measurements. Fortunately I have a set of used R-4 pads that are ~50% worn. I will measure the pad thickness compared to the new pads, then install the worn pads and check how much clearance I have at full lock. This should be interesting... 


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#38 datsunfreak

datsunfreak

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,257 posts
  • Location:Arlington, TX
  • Cars:'73 1200 Coupe, '77 280Z

Posted 27 April 2017 - 01:59 PM

I know about the caliper/tie-rod interference issue with 280ZX struts/brakes on a 510

 

I know this ins't your first rodeo.  ;)

 

 

but I've always used 1" RCAs.

 

I did that once. Didn't like it, so never did it again. Hence my compulsion to swap sides. I do it on everything, ZX brakes or no...    :P


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#39 Tedman

Tedman

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 193 posts
  • Location:Harbor City, CA
  • Cars:'72 Datsun 510 (x2), '05 Xterra (VQ40DE Donor?), '62 Porsche 356 Coupe (project)

Posted 27 April 2017 - 09:37 PM

Ok, today I took a look at caliper/tie-rod clearance.  First, a review of the setup:

 

280ZX struts shortened for AW11 MR2 rear inserts

280ZX calipers and rotors 

Stock '69 front crossmember

Ride height set at 6" at rocker horizontal surface aft of front wheel arch as measured at notch in pinch weld

Stock 510 Lower Control Arm w/ DP Racing monoball bushings

Stock tie rods

DP Racing 1" Roll Center Adjusters (aka Bumpsteer Spacers)

 

Here's a few gratuitous pics showing the ride height. Wheels are powder coated AR Libre 14x5.5 with some old 195/55 tires and 15mm spacers (front only). Keep in mind there's no drivetrain installed. I just adjusted the front coilovers to mimic something close to the final ride height. Like I said in a previous post, it keeps getting lower which is a good thing!

kDeOr6Q.jpg

 

oG1yBmz.jpg

 

OfJ1SzO.jpg

 

Now, back to the experiment. I have a set of worn Porterfield R-4 pads and compared them to the new R-4S pads. Total thickness was approx. 20.3 mm for the new pads and 11.4 mm for the worn pads. Pad material thickness was approx.10.6 mm for the new pads and 5.4 mm for the worn pads, so pad life was at approx. 50%. Comparison pic of the pads:

pXFEX9l.jpg

 

I installed the worn pads in the RF caliper and moved the caliper fully inboard such that the outer pad was snug against the rotor. Then I cranked the wheel full left lock. Here's how much clearance there was:

depuK6e.jpg

 

Full right lock was similar, but harder to photograph, hence no pic.  It's hard to project the amount of clearance in the correct plane from the photo, but I'm pretty confident from what I observed that there will be sufficient clearance (>5mm) even with fully worn pads. In my case, I don't see a need to swap the struts side-to-side.

 

In other news, shortly after this experiment I loaded the car onto a trailer and took it to my buddy's shop for replacement of the damaged driver's side front floor, final fitting of the repaired LF Fender, and rolling of the fender arches. Really looking forward to getting the metal work completed! 

 

 

 

 


-Tedman

"Bolt it up and let it happen" -Anon

#40 datsunfreak

datsunfreak

    Senior Member

  • Senior Member
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 13,257 posts
  • Location:Arlington, TX
  • Cars:'73 1200 Coupe, '77 280Z

Posted 28 April 2017 - 02:24 PM

I'm pretty confident from what I observed that there will be sufficient clearance (>5mm) even with fully worn pads. In my case, I don't see a need to swap the struts side-to-side.

 

Indeed. With the "bumpsteer" spacers, there's no real need. For me, just a want.   ^_^


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option.