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Stock Hitachi carb specs for a '77 B210??


BestyBlue77

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Bought car this last June. It came with a re-maned 4 year old carb on it. It's the stock carb forsure. It has never run right since I got it. It usually runs pretty good once it gets really warmed up & going, but then it will die after trying to accelerate from a stop. Pulled the carb out and noticed the primary venturi was upside down. When I corrected the problem & tried to start it,it proceeded to DUMP a ton of gas into the intake chamber to point of it leaking outside of the carb because it was so full. I removed the whole thing, so I could clean it & try to figure out what might be wrong. Only thing that looked out of whack (not sure though) is the primary & secondary main air bleeds might be switched. Luckily all the brass jets have numbers stamped into them to tell them apart. All the numbers are consistently larger on the secondary side EXCEPT for the main air bleed. That doesn't seem right. Am I right in my thinking here? Does anyone know the specs or where I can find them, please?

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You should be able to start an engine cold put in gear and drive it. It will lack power very slightly till warmed but otherwise run smoothly and not stall when you stop..

 

 

If yours only runs well when warm I would suspect the choke not set properly or doing it's job. If the venturi was incorrectly installed there are probably other thing not set right also. Quitting after accelerating could easily be a clogged fuel filter. Change it any way, they are cheap.

 

 

Get a B-210 manual and go through the carb settings like the float height, choke and choke unloader and fast idle cam settings. Easier to do with the carb off.

 

Before setting the idle mixture and speed settings make sure the valve lash is correct and the ignition timing set.

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Thanks for the tips! I have 2 Chiltons & Datsun service manual for this car. As I also have a 77 B210 I've had for 15 years. I did pull the carb off & opened up all the jets& air bleeds one at a time to make sure nothing was clogged at all. Everything was in good shape. Put it all back together & tried to start it. It started up & sounded good for about 15 seconds. Then it died. I immediately took the air cleaner top off and looked down inside & sure enough the secondary side was full of gas again. The choke works ok. It's actually brand new. It's the flooding I can't figure out. The fuel filter is also new & there is no flow problem coming from the fuel pump as far as giving plenty of gas. I can't figure this bugger out. Also, I know the carb adjustments are set to spec already because I just rebuilt it. That's when I noticed the upside-down venturi.

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There should be a glass front or window for the fuel bowl. When running, the gas level should be at the mark on this window. If not the float needs adjusting. It's also possible that the needle valve the the float opens and closes is clogged with dirt and can't close leading to flooding.

 

 

You have the stock mechanical fuel pump???

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Funny you should say that, because the more I read and researched everything kept pointing back to the needle & float being off. I just used the Datsun Service Manual for my measurements and they are a bit different from what it says in the carb rebuild kit spec sheet. Anywho, I took the top back off removed & sprayed out the needle & remeasured the float adjustments. I also inspected the float and straightened it out I noticed it was a bit wonky. It's dark now so I can't put it back on, but I will first thing tomorrow. Also, I still do have the original mechanical fuel pump, but couldn't find any rebuild kit anywhere for it, so I had to purchase a newer mechanic fuel pump. That's what's on it now. Also, I noticed this carb doesn't have the tiny fuel filter that is normally inside the main fuel inlet on the carb, so that not being there and a possible dirty pre-pump fuel filter would make for one jacked up carbie. Hmmm, I wonder if the gas tank has dirt or rust in it. How could I clean it out if that's the case?

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Don't worry about the tank just keep replacing the in line fuel filter for now it will catch everything.

 

There should be a line or dot on the window. Set the float to get the gas close to this line.

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Don't toss you stock pump. Keep seeking a rebuild kit. That newer unit has a terrible rep.

I never throw anything away! Haha. That's good & bad! I suspect this may be the problem then. When I first reset the float, it runs great, but a few days if driving & it's right back to running like crap & stalling out constantly.
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