521 constantly blowing flasher, reverse and meter fuse

[datzenmike]

According to the wiring diagram only the 4 way flasher and dash are connected to the fuse you mention.

As it's the easiest to try, move the 4 way flasher switch on and off a few times to be sure it's properly in the OFF position.... then

 

Unplug the 4 way switch.... nothing?...

 

Unplug the gauge cluster.

[d.p]

When the fuse blows the gas gauge just drifts all the way to the left and temp gauge does the same.  So forget the diagram because I know for a fact that this fuse controls the turn signals, gas/temp and reverse lights just like the fuse box says it does.  When it blows the flashers (hazards) still work as they are on a different fuse which does not blow.   And I still don't understand why going WOT causes that fuse to blow, meaning what does WOT have to do with the shit on that fuse??

 

Ill try this tomorrow.

 

1. Disconnect 4 way and go WOT

2. Disconnect gauge cluster and go WOT

[wayno]

Try unplugging the blue wire with the white line from the #1 fuse you are blowing, it's under the green wire in the photo.

[d.p]

Try unplugging the blue wire with the white line from the #1 fuse you are blowing, it's under the green wire in the photo.

Been disconnected for a long time already.

[d.p]

1. Disconnected flashers = BLOWN

2. Disconnected Combo meter = BLOWN

3. Disconnected Gas Sender and both sets of wires going to switches on the carb = BLOWN

[flatcat19]

Could it be bad bulbs?

[d.p]

Just disconnected both rear harnesses w/meter disconnected = BLOWN.

 

If it is bulbs why would throttle blow that fuse?  

[datzenmike]

I have an idea..... pull the plug out of the alternator so it isn't charging and try it.

[flatcat19]

IDK. I'm just thinking out loud.

 

 

What happens when you disconnect all the carb connectors?

[datzenmike]

 

Can you clear away the leaves so we can see the wire colors? Maybe wires are plugged into the wrong fuses.

[d.p]

OK, removed the plug from the alt, went WOT and it DID NOT blow.    Does that mean the alt is sending to much current and on its way out?  Or bad ground on the alt?

 

Fuse blows when I disconnect the 4 carb wires.   Blue/white wire (under green wire) on #1 is disconnected and has been for a long time.  

 

[datzenmike]

OK, removed the plug from the alt, went WOT and it DID NOT blow.    Does that mean the alt is sending to much current and on its way out?  Or bad ground on the alt?

 

 

 

 

Time to take a voltage measurement across the battery when revved up. Regulator may be pushing out 18 volts. This would increase the current by 50% more than at 12 volts.

[d.p]

Just tested it.

 

No alt connected, it hangs around 12.8.  Connected alt, go WOT and it jumps up to 16.x and blows the fuse.  So that means what?  Brushes worn out?

[wayno]

I guess WOT means your SOL. 

 

Maybe your regulator is messed up.

[d.p]

I guess WOT means your SOL. 

 

Maybe your regulator is messed up.

 

Voltage regulator?  

[wayno]

Voltage regulator?  

 

Yes, the voltage regulator on the inner fender well.

I problem here is I have never bought a good one from a parts store, in the end I have went with internally regulated alternators on all my rigs except for the single 320 I have with a generator, maybe someone here on Ratsun has a digital one they will sell you, I have one around here somewhere, but have not seen it in years, but it is somewhere around here.

By the way, I am not going to look for it, it's been to many years, it would be luck if I actually found it, and in the end I am not sure it is good, as I was having issues with my charge system.

[d.p]

Lol is it the big on the fender?  I tried to loosen the mounting screws on it and they are fucking tight!  Couldnt break them loose at all.  Looks like they may be seized in the fender.  

 

Could my alt be bad?  Or more than likely the regulator?

[datzenmike]

Alternator only does what the regulator tells it to do. Probably the regulator but maybe the connections to it? Remove and make sure it's solidly mounted to the fender. It's grounded by it's mounting screws.

 

Is the body sheet metal grounded to the battery negative side???? Important.

[d.p]

I can't remove it as the mounting screws are seized.  hit them with PB and will see if it helps.   How can I test voltage regulator to alternator connection?  

 

I had a ground from negative terminal to the body but it made no difference so I took it off to test the way it was.

 

This is what I am working with:

 

 

 

[banzai510(hainz)]

Ok I got it fixed.

 

At idle its fine when reved it pops every time(had a stack of fuses) Popped my solid state VR. I put a Jap mechanical in.  Still popped fuse but VR seems fine everytime I put another fuse in so mechanic volt reg seems to handle the load

other owner had wired in a relay timer for wipers. I cut that wire. still popped fuse.

 

I call Jeff Hino(ICEHOUSE) he said pull the T connector and it it don't pop its the alternator. But time he txt that back I had the alternator out.

Swapped out Alt and seems fine right now in driveway. Reved up motor. 14volts and no popping of the fuse.

I talked to Frank Cook and told him the issue about the alt belt swuelling he said it drawing a big load at once and the smallest fuse will pop first.

 

When this fuse pops the ignition light will come on for a second then go out so you wont know your still not charging.  So helps if one get a volt meter or better yet a Cig lighter type digital read out volt or diaode indication meter so show over or under charging.

 

 

I was lucky to have spare volr reg and alternator.

 

PS this alternator was only 6 months old!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

really need to give it a good run to make sure its the fix

[d.p]

Glad you got it fixed and it sounds identical to mine.... T connector disconnected no popped fuse.  Unfortunately for me I don't have spare regulator or alternator to test with.    So icehouse said if it doesn't pop without the T than the alt is bad?  So maybe my first step is to replace the alt???

 

What did it show under load with the old alt/reg in?  16+ volts? 

[banzai510(hainz)]

when My solid state volt reg pope it shows overvolt. I cant say what it was as it only goes to 15volt. But I out the lights ON and still 15volts which is a sign a bad volt reg. But still shows sign the alter is working as it shold overvolt as its a unregulater voltage.  So I put the mechanical VR in and it seems to wok but right when I rev the ignition light come on for a sec and voltage goes back to 12volts and no turn sig ,fuel gauge ect......

 

Just try a new alternator. They are cheap and just eat the core charge and keep one as a spare.

 

for some reason my 521 always has electrical proplems. ust fuse box is always suspect as a lot of water around there, the hood hinge also there.  most is just corrosion.  I just never seen a alternaot do this before.  Should have swapped it out first but I had this prolem before with the same fuse and it was just a Instrument cluster reseat plug

 

 

OH I only have one screw in the volt reg as one sheared off. as it was a MOFo to get the screw out. If you try again use the bigger Phillips a quality one . and try again (soak it first with PB plaster is possible and use antiseize. Buy a bottle of it. and use it on everything!!!!!!!

[d.p]

Can I drive this fucker with the alt T connection disconnected?  

[banzai510(hainz)]

T connector supplys the 12volts to magnitize the windings on outside the alt. then the magnets cut the magnetic field to give you current/voltage.

So you just running off the battery till it dies. That's why you shoul have a volt meter to see whats happening.  The idiot light not not good enough in my opinion.. Youll catch bad things happen why before you get stuck on side of road , then call a tow ruck and he fucks up the tow and ruins your truck.

[d.p]

I mean just until I can get a new alt, as local stores dont stock them (have to order).