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I got it one piece at a time........


captain720

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Appears as though my driver's side leaf spring is shot, the clearance between bump stop and axle is a lot less on that side than other side. I'm guessing I can't just use a 2wd one because the 2wd spring rate and Arch is different. Does anyone want to sell me some good 4wd rear leaf packs?

 

There is some in kititas wrecking yard for money so I will likely get them next month...... If there still there, but it's sagging on just that corner so that does mean they need replacing right? There 250,000 miles on them so not surprising.

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If you put the 2wd spring on do them as a pair.  You will need to flip the spring center bolt because the 2 wheel drive spring mounts on the bottom of the axle and the 4x4 mount on the the top of the axle.  Be sure to clamp the spring pack on both sides of the center bolt before loosening the center bolt.  Use lots of WD40 on the center bolt before removal.  You will most likely have to tap the center bolt out.  Leave the nut on the end of the threads and use a brass drift to get the center bolt moving.

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Most importantly which truck is coming to canby?

Well this one's broke and I pulled the motor and trans out of the white truck, but the blue 2wd is solid. I might have to skip this year to pass calculus 3

 

White truck is coming to Canby 2019 tho with AC and a 5 speed.

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Forgot to update thread.........

 

So I got the rear leafs changed out with actual 4wd ones, put a passenger seat in the driver's side, installed a rad bumper with a winch that's not wired up yet...... Found a stock t case boot to replace the ball cap that had been serving as a t case boot for the last 2 years replaced the exhaust manifold with one that has no holes solving 5 exhaust leaks and that's a huge improvement. So it runs amazing and is currently my daily which to all of you who have dailied these rad rides know it's not the comfiest daily. But it made it to Seattle and back twice last weekend so if nothing bad happens this is my backup 2019 canby rig. Pics coming

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  • 6 months later...

Alright guys its spring, and that means Datsun, currently this pile o parts is at the only shop I trust (still I am super nervous letting anyone touch my baby) getting pit man arm, idler arm, steering linkage, alignment, summer tires mounted and balanced, and a front dif oil change they threw in for basically the cost of GL-5. Once that is done the only remaining factory parts will be the differentials, passenger seat, and some body panels. Soon I will be replacing the fuse block because it melted itself and some functions (heater) are not working.

 

Feel free to make fun of me for letting a shop work on my rig, but I did not want to cut the rusty bits off. 

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11 hours ago, captain720 said:

Alright guys its spring, and that means Datsun, currently this pile o parts is at the only shop I trust (still I am super nervous letting anyone touch my baby) getting pit man arm, idler arm, steering linkage, alignment, summer tires mounted and balanced, and a front dif oil change they threw in for basically the cost of GL-5. Once that is done the only remaining factory parts will be the differentials, passenger seat, and some body panels. Soon I will be replacing the fuse block because it melted itself and some functions (heater) are not working.

 

Feel free to make fun of me for letting a shop work on my rig, but I did not want to cut the rusty bits off. 

 

Meh, whatever get it on the road. Pics or .... 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Trying to comply with the pics or ban rule here......

 

IMG-20190518-171835726-HDR.jpg

 

Did a bit of painting, I just wanted to stop the rust so its rattle can and lots of primer. Not pretty but its better than the rust also needed to practice with my fancy new toys before doing white trucks engine bay.

IMG-20190518-171121015-BURST000-COVER-TO

 

And as a side benefit the licence plate is now held on with bolts instead of zip ties so that's kinda a luxury item.

Edited by captain720
Small content addition at the end
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  • 4 months later...
On 10/16/2019 at 10:40 AM, canon3383 said:

Your video on

Nissan/Datsun 720 head bolt re-torque procedure

is great, however I left a comment about the video giving me vertigo and making me sick, please keep making video's, just take the camera off your head.

Yes, no more camera on head. Thanks for the feedback and encouragement! Would a vid just giving a brief rundown of weber carbs be useful for people?

Edited by captain720
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  • 4 months later...
  • 4 months later...

olNItWV.jpg

 

I can tell you that you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right. I had mine backwards for 3 years before I found out, so backwards won't hurt anything. Connect it and if the red charge light does not come on when you turn the ignition to ON (not start) then it's backwards. If the red light does come on and goes out when the engine starts it wired correctly.

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15 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

olNItWV.jpg

 

I can tell you that you have a 50/50 chance of getting it right. I had mine backwards for 3 years before I found out, so backwards won't hurt anything. Connect it and if the red charge light does not come on when you turn the ignition to ON (not start) then it's backwards. If the red light does come on and goes out when the engine starts it wired correctly.

Thanks! Do you know which post the "E" wire goes?

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My alternator died and all I had on hand was the T plug ones so I got a used one from the wrecking yard and it does not work either, only batter voltage in the battery post. 12 volts in one of the parralel plugs, ran an extra ground jumper just for good measure

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