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1970 Datsun 521 L20b running rough.


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that looks right. YOu watch the vid??????????

now when you put the dist in where those the rotor point?

where rotor points that is number 1 plug wire. then goes 1 3 4 2 counter close wirse fire order.

 

a lot of people say Im out 180degs. then move the spark plug wires 180degs and start over. key is the above statement. If you know where 1 is then that is your starting point. 1 3 4 2 ccw.

 

but like I earlier said the oil spidal can be correct at TDC but you have a wrong distributor mount if you converted this over with mismatched parts. If this was running fine before then put it back to where ever you had it.

I did watch the videos, first thing I did was pop the cap off to find that the rotor was pointing at #4 at tdc. After seeing that I pulled the distributor and found that the oil spindle wasn't like the other pictures or descriptions of where it should be so I removed the oil pump and adjusted it. It looked ok from the top so I bolted it back together, put the cap on and rotor was now pointing at #1. Firing order is correct. Tried to fire it up and only back fires and won't start.
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well he said he watched the vid so linning it up with the dot on oil pump you cant get if off 180degs. maybe a tooth or 2

but where it locks down and if spindal off 180 just move the plug wire from 4 to 1 or 1 to 4 will work as I have done it before cause some people put the dist mount off 180degs then say WTF!!!! it don't run but got the spindal in the corret 11.28 position.. Now with digital cameras you take photo first before removing as we all do forget sometimes.

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I made it over there yesterday and we got the timing dialed in perfectly. Still had funky issue bogging in with the secondaries. Poking around the carb we found a few oversized jets. I'm going to lend him a few to see if that resolve the issue. Otherwise the truck starts and idles great.

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Got the valves adjusted today. Also fiddled with the jets. Ran a little better but still not good enough to drive. Swapped with a carb I had. I'll let OP update after testing.

 

I'm guessing his carb might need a little more work. Not sure what emulsion tube are in it and they are stuck.

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Thanks for all the help draker! Seems to be running pretty well, minor sputter at idle but nothing devastating, there was also a blockage in the fuel line and fuel filter so I replaced the line and cleaned out the filter. Like Draker says there is a ticking sound coming from the rear of the motor, I adjusted the valves twice, once cold and once hot, then draker helped me Do it hot another time. It only happens once the motor is warmed up and is revved, doesn't do it at idle. I appreciate all your guys help and camt wait to drive this puppy around :)

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if you have the crank at zero . then just line up the cam sprocket so the V notch lines up with the dash. 

 

then  rotate the crank CCW say half turn  then turn crank back to zero and see if it lines up on V notch and dash(keeping chain on the tight side). If yes then its timed and lock it down. If not start over and move a link in the dection you need to go.   most people shoul ink pen the chain link before removal of the chain

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I'm wondering how long it has been ran with barely any oil, maybe the previous owner ran it that way as well? Hopefully it didnt create any problems...

 

It's certainly not good, but if you had oil pressure before it should be fine. Also if all the sounds are gone and pressure is back to normal.. it's probably fine.

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