Daryl Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Thanks, Soundline. I do my utmost hardest to follow the manuals when I do any task. Leave er in better condition than originally was. She's got quire the character. Driving er is a "trance" most of the time. Such a Joy. The mechanical simplicity and boxy views makes er all that more attractive. For now I'm keeping er stock and seeing if we get to 300k miles. I'll be getting another A12a, rebuild and EFI convert. Apparently I can't order the 756F accelerator pump by itself. BUT I was able to find a kit that does have it! Autozone - 1983 Nissan Sentra w/ 1.5L SONC uses the same pump. I may be one of the few that loves Hitachi and Nikki carbs... While consulting 3 manuals for compatibility. Updated To-Do List for this week! Get a spare non rusted wheel. Tighten heater coolant line inside cabin. Replace Output Shaft Seal. Replace Idler Arm Bushings. Getting down Wednesday to do both seal and bushing work since parts came in. Ordered the lower rad-hose and awaiting. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 I am the only one that loves Hitachi and Nikki carbs... Fixed. ^_^ 2 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Fixed. ^_^ Bwahahaha. Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted May 31, 2017 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 I get the feeling of them being hated for all sorts of reasons... Lot's of em. :rofl: Idler arm is done. You can remove the idler arm without having to remove the hinge bolted to the engine bay wall. DSCN0307 by cad lab, on Flickr Example DSCN0310 by cad lab, on Flickr Clean up the arm and grease the bushings prior install. DSCN0311 by cad lab, on Flickr Fill it up with tons of lube and tighten er up. DSCN0312 by cad lab, on Flickr Hopefully that removes some of the steering play. Oil pan gasket is wet on drivers side. Not dripping just wet. So far it looks simple enough. Just remove bolts and let the pan hang?. If its like that, I'll end up doing it Friday. 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 Just remove bolts and let the pan hang?. If its like that, I'll end up doing it Friday. Better to take it all the way out. Get it clean, straighten the edges, throw some paint on it, etc. As I recall, dropping the sway bar makes it easier. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 31, 2017 Report Share Posted May 31, 2017 I get the feeling of them being hated for all sorts of reasons... They make good weights for a trot line... 2 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2017 I really don't want to take anything else apart. Pan doesn't look like it's ever been removed or tinkered with. But we'll see what occurs tomorrow as we dive into it. I'm sure the gasket has turned to stone. Quite the "Hard" situation. :rofl: Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 4, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2017 Got some work done yesterday and found some interesting info on er. Removed drive-shaft and dove into the output shaft. Bugger was so F*ing tight! P1030412 by cad lab, on Flickr Got off after a while of carefully prying at it. P1030411 by cad lab, on Flickr Here's a close up of the leaking seal and it's a one piece non-replaceable! P1030407 by cad lab, on Flickr Ordered one off rock auto. Won't be in till next week so I did the next best thing. Clean and replace the round spring. Pop back in and hope it lowers leak some. P1030410 by cad lab, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 Now onto some better stuff. Drive-shaft looks like it's been replaced sometime in it's life to the C-clip U joint style. Heck Ya! P1030408 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030409 by cad lab, on Flickr Outa all the Nuts one took quite the damage. Need to locate stainless steel equivalents to replace all of em next week. P1030419 by cad lab, on Flickr Added half a cup of GL4 to top off trans. P1030418 by cad lab, on Flickr Shes looking pretty on the underside. P1030415 by cad lab, on Flickr With canby around the corner, I underestimated time needed to replace parts. Should of done one large order in March. We'll It's a learning experience every time. Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 Canby Itinerary - 洋子 June 9,10,11 - 2017 Route: HWY 128, HWY 1 (North), Drive Thru Tree Leggette, HWY 101, HWY 199, HWY 99, I-5 (Interstate), HWY 99E (East). Distance: 578miles-1 way. / 1156miles-2way. Time: 13hrs @ 45 - 50mph Schedule: Friday June 9: Saturday June 10: Sunday June 11: Leave @ 6:00 a.m. All-Day-Event. Leave @ 7:00 - 8:00 a.m. Arrival @ 7:00 p.m. Arrival @ 8:00 - 9:00 p.m. Cost: Fuel ($3 per Gal x 9g) Full Tank Before Departure: $190 Round trip @ 20mpg $140 Round Trip @ 30mpg --Total: $280 - $230 -- If all goes peachy. 2 by cad lab, on Flickr 1 by cad lab, on Flickr Not going to lie I'm a slow driver even for being young. I get that a lot. Seen cars cut in half, no survivors. Leaves a mark in ya memory. Quote Link to comment
dat521gatherer Posted June 6, 2017 Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 Damn. Your leaving before I get there. Always fun to see other 210's. Good luck and safe travels. 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2017 Damn. Your leaving before I get there. Always fun to see other 210's. Good luck and safe travels. Shame, I'd stay longer but I got work Monday. We'll meet one or another way. You too, thanks. Been stalking your build thread... You happen to have the same shade of yellow that my other 210 has. Crummy pic: 561545_270557103055851_480719092_n by cad lab, on Flickr 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 12, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2017 Friday, June 9th. We hit the road onto Hwy 101 with a gorgeous scenic route. Left @6am sharp. Trees of Mystery & Drive thu Tree were on the bucket list. P1030425 by cad lab, on Flickr Pretty empty so pics came out great. P1030441 by cad lab, on Flickr Dam giant! P1030451 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030453 by cad lab, on Flickr First time on the 101 and what an awesome drive it was. P1030444 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030446 by cad lab, on Flickr Arrival time in canby: 9:20pm. (15+ hrs @ 50mph). DSCN0321 by cad lab, on Flickr Partner in crime. :rofl: DSCN0406 by cad lab, on Flickr Not a single breakdown, or any need for fluids (except fuel). That's quite the accomplishment for 1,352 miles. On other note. Driving the I-5 came across another 80-81 yellow 210. Quite the Scene. Had a great time & met some cool ratsun-ers. Monday's work day, so that about sums up what I did sunday night/mid-day. 2 Quote Link to comment
Fat510 Posted June 13, 2017 Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 Fixed. ^_^ Not entirely true though. Nice meeting you Daryl, I can put a username to car to face haha 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2017 Indeed it was. Would of liked to have chatted a bit more, always next year. DSCN0389 by cad lab, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 15, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2017 Trannys still grinding along in 2nd. Hasn't been doing all too good. Located a 60A to swap the F4W56A (56A) currently in yoko. Would like to rebuild and drop in but I've hit another wall... Can't locate F4W60A (4speed) synchros anywhere! So here's a Question: What are the possibility of using the FS5W60A (5speed) synchros? Both are 60A series, so could I use the first 4 synchros and junk the 5th? Or are they completely different internals. Quite the long shot unless someone knows where I can get some for the 4 speeds. Quote Link to comment
KELMO Posted June 16, 2017 Report Share Posted June 16, 2017 4spd F4W62 Synchros(Baulk Ring) # 32604-H9000 5spd FS5W60A Synchros #32604-H9700 By number, they are different. Maybe at www.bearingkit.com I was able to get 5spd parts there, worth a try if you haven't come across that website. 1 Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 I've decided to go a different route. Shipping A-series stuff will crack my bank and doesn't look like a realistic setup for the long term. So... Picked up an L16 last week just in case I ever needed an L series for something. Today I picked up an F4W63A (26") to mate em. Both for under 200. Went threw today and tore apart the L16. Internals are pretty good. Deep cleaning, definitely. Hone, re-ring, new bearings, & all new gaskets. 00d0d_i3E4azyBOVO_1200x900 by cad lab, on Flickr 63A trans. 04b14b8a879d1ff71766680e929f81363e83d6a1-1 by cad lab, on Flickr 5a6c497d12a2f043eaccd3617348c33b9f044f77-1 by cad lab, on Flickr At least it sounds like a doable fun daily. Actually looked all over the net and couldn't locate pics with detailed steps on process. I'll be doing so then. I'll keep using the A12 & F4W56A till I get this setup accomplished. Keeping the A-series drivetrain for smog purposes. Shooting for the next couple of months to have heart surgery underway. Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 A10 crossmember makes bolting an L into a 210 an easy affair. A10 member, 210 control arms. Need A10 L20B oil pan and pick up. I know of one member that I sent those specific parts to that has zero current plans to use said parts. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 You also can find 5 speeds easier/cheaper too. Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 21, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 A10 crossmember makes bolting an L into a 210 an easy affair. A10 member, 210 control arms. Need A10 L20B oil pan and pick up. I know of one member that I sent those specific parts to that has zero current plans to use said parts. Great list. Pandora's tranny box has been opened. Lol. Wonder if they would pass the parts along.... I sure could use em'... I'll post something in the classifieds. Are the 210 control arms just the stock ones or do I need to fab em? Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted June 21, 2017 Report Share Posted June 21, 2017 Stock ones. The member I gave my A10 stuff too will more than likely see my posts about it. I aquired said parts to put an L18 in to a 210. Maybe THAT member will help me see my dream lived out. I'm looking at you. You know who you are! Lol. Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 I know of one member that I sent those specific parts to that has zero current plans to use said parts. No you don't. Wonder if they would pass the parts along.... I sure could use em'... I'll post something in the classifieds. Would probably pass along the oil pan? I already have a vintage Datsun Comp 7 quart baffled oil pan (with windage tray!) for my freshly rebuilt L18. :cool: I aquired said parts to put an L18 in to a 210. Maybe THAT member will help me see my dream lived out. Already headed that way... 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 22, 2017 Report Share Posted June 22, 2017 A10 crossmember makes bolting an L into a 210 an easy affair. Also, been meaning to confirm this for about a year now, but something is telling me the sway bars are different. Might need the A10 sway bar too. Quote Link to comment
Daryl Posted June 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2017 Also, been meaning to confirm this for about a year now, but something is telling me the sway bars are different. Might need the A10 sway bar too. This... We'll see as soon I locate the member. L16 has been officially called "cracked space." Found two cracked bolts. One of which was a pain in the a## to remove. None the less it's bore measurements as within spec, so a re-ring we go. P1030626 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030627 by cad lab, on Flickr P1030628 by cad lab, on Flickr We'll see how it goes from here on. I need to make a new list of stuff that is needed too. Quote Link to comment
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