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#41 Daryl

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Posted 04 May 2017 - 07:36 AM

Anyone been able to rebuild the 4sp f4w56a? Where do I locate a Rebuild kit?

 

3rd has been having some trouble & I've been googling for hours with not many results either.

I'd rather rebuild and keep er as stock as possible but if push comes to shove i'll swap to a rebuild-able 4sp.

I'ma have to do some more research to see if the A12a will marry a f4w60?!

 

Maybe switch to a 5sp if that's even possible with the a12a.

Anyway I'll keep posted.



#42 datsunfreak

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Posted 04 May 2017 - 06:11 PM

Maybe switch to a 5sp if that's even possible with the a12a.

 

It is very possible. And ideal.   B)


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#43 Daryl

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Posted 06 May 2017 - 10:26 AM

Updated To-Do List for this month.

 

Grease the most likely original; tie rod ends, idler arm, center link, ball joints.  (No time to replace, but will do sometime later in the year)

Check the staked u joints and figure out some way to grease em so they last a few 10,000 more miles.

Replace the front wheel bearings. (weird noise)

Grease the rear bearings, if it even has em....?  Need to check manual.

Replace the rear window seal sometime next month.

Change the 700 miles tranny oil and criticize it for problems. Get some good shit in there!

Change 1 tire. Ya just one!

Get a spare non rusted wheel.

Tighten heater coolant line inside cabin. Minor leak.

Replace top and bottom rad coolant lines. (Don't leak just old.)

 

EDIT:

Replace Accelerator Pump (2BBL Hitachi).

Replace Output Shaft Seal.

Replace Idler Arm Bushings.

Replace leaking valve cover gasket.

 

On another note. She got the bath she deserved. Chrome on the other hand... We'll ran outa-time and didn't get to it.

 

34331231692_0588cdee6d_z.jpgDSCNN0111 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

34331248472_d77b996d41_z.jpgDSCNN0106 by cad lab, on Flickr



#44 datsunfreak

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Posted 06 May 2017 - 03:07 PM

Grease the rear bearings, if it even has em....?  Need to check manual.Flickr

 

It does, but you can't.    ^_^

 

Sealed bearings, non-greasable. 

 

510dt25.jpg


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#45 Daryl

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 03:28 PM

Picked up some parts last night & hit the tool box to get started this morning.

 

Hit the manuals on the search for cold temp valve #'s. Found that 0.25mm (10,000's inch) was the feeler size.

Took the air filter assembly, vacuum lines and valve cover off to inspect er.

 

34724302245_1e55241d1c_z.jpgDSCN0114 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Found em all way to open, so adjust we go.

 

34339935780_acdc271cc0_z.jpgDSCN0115 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Looked into what the gas stench could be. As I presumed the accelerator pumps wet!

 

34562501352_4271ee5d28_z.jpgDSCN0119 by cad lab, on Flickr

Only issue is I can't locate a correct one?! Maybe another datsun has the same one that's interchangeable...?

 

Replaced valve cover gasket with Fel-Pro cork & gave er some paint.

 

34562511322_4c2b345274_z.jpgDSCN0117 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Man what a difference. No oil seepage, runs @ 50mph silent! & good looking.

 

34593254031_ce06fdb6f4_z.jpgDSCN0121 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

P.S. New fan belt.



#46 datsunfreak

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Posted 17 May 2017 - 03:32 PM

Looked into what the gas stench could be. As I presumed the accelerator pumps wet!Flic

 

Easy fix: Get a 1200 carb and put your jets in it. 

 

Better fix: Weber 32/36. 

 

 

^_^


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#47 Daryl

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 01:03 PM

So here's what is readily available and that I've used on all other dats I've worked on.

 

34673988931_a61f8b03c1_z.jpgaccpump by cad lab, on Flickr

 

There's always a first for everything... Come to find, I was able to locate it.

 

34420630360_3c1f81b5a9_z.jpgaccpumpuse by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Seems a bit longer on the end and I haven't taken the Hitachi apart but I presume it's the same. Or at least I hope.

 

 



Easy fix: Get a 1200 carb and put your jets in it. 

 

Better fix: Weber 32/36. 

 

 

^_^

 

I wish but I'm in California, the land of smog.



#48 datsunfreak

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 02:15 PM

I wish but I'm in California, the land of smog.

 

Do they pull the air cleaner to check it? The stock B310 air cleaner still fits the 1200 carb...


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#49 Daryl

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 04:53 PM

They are much harder on older stuff around here. They look underneath for cat & muffler codes for CA compliance. Take air housing off and make sure all vacuum crap is hooked up.

 

Took a 94 chevy in and they didn't even use a flash light... That about sums it up. 

 

 

I'm not against smog but these cars are 30+ and well, things are becoming hard to come by. So keeping em in check with smog will be getting tuff.

 

 

I'm looking into an EFI setup further down the road. Depends if I can get DMV to cooperate with smog and paperwork.



#50 Soundline

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Posted 27 May 2017 - 04:40 PM

They are much harder on older stuff around here. They look underneath for cat & muffler codes for CA compliance. Take air housing off and make sure all vacuum crap is hooked up.
 
Took a 94 chevy in and they didn't even use a flash light... That about sums it up. 
 
 
I'm not against smog but these cars are 30+ and well, things are becoming hard to come by. So keeping em in check with smog will be getting tuff.
 
I'm looking into an EFI setup further down the road. Depends if I can get DMV to cooperate with smog and paperwork.


I just saw this build and I like it Daryl. You've got achievable goals and you're working through them systematically.

That EFI A12 is an interesting concept, it looks like something Redeye would put together on his 411. I'd be curious to see how this project evolves.
Dark times reveal those whom are lit from within.

#51 Daryl

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 05:00 PM

Thanks, Soundline. I do my utmost hardest to follow the manuals when I do any task. Leave er in better condition than originally was.

She's got quire the character. Driving er is a "trance" most of the time. Such a Joy. The mechanical simplicity and boxy views makes er all that more attractive.

 

For now I'm keeping er stock and seeing if we get to 300k miles. I'll be getting another A12a, rebuild and EFI convert.

 

Apparently I can't order the 756F accelerator pump by itself.

BUT I was able to find a kit that does have it!  Autozone - 1983 Nissan Sentra w/ 1.5L SONC uses the same pump. 
I may be one of the few that loves Hitachi and Nikki carbs... While consulting 3 manuals for compatibility.
 
Updated To-Do List for this week!
 
Get a spare non rusted wheel.
Tighten heater coolant line inside cabin.
Replace Output Shaft Seal.
Replace Idler Arm Bushings.
 
Getting down Wednesday to do both seal and bushing work since parts came in. Ordered the lower rad-hose and awaiting.


#52 datsunfreak

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 05:05 PM

I am the only one that loves Hitachi and Nikki carbs... 

 

Fixed.   ^_^


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#53 flatcat19

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Posted 30 May 2017 - 06:09 PM

Fixed.   ^_^



Bwahahaha.

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#54 Daryl

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Posted 31 May 2017 - 10:26 AM

I get the feeling of them being hated for all sorts of reasons... Lot's of em.  :rofl:

 

Idler arm is done.

 

You can remove the idler arm without having to remove the hinge bolted to the engine bay wall.

34205630913_22c163eea8_z.jpgDSCN0307 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Example

34628927930_e3bbf18958_z.jpgDSCN0310 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Clean up the arm and grease the bushings prior install.

34205629663_97e8083034_z.jpgDSCN0311 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Fill it up with tons of lube and tighten er up.

34628926800_f33fc14c40_z.jpgDSCN0312 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Hopefully that removes some of the steering play.

 

Oil pan gasket is wet on drivers side. Not dripping just wet. So far it looks simple enough. Just remove bolts and let the pan hang?. If its like that, I'll end up doing it Friday.



#55 datsunfreak

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Posted 31 May 2017 - 12:34 PM

Just remove bolts and let the pan hang?. If its like that, I'll end up doing it Friday.

 

Better to take it all the way out. Get it clean, straighten the edges, throw some paint on it, etc.

 

As I recall, dropping the sway bar makes it easier. 


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#56 datsunfreak

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Posted 31 May 2017 - 01:43 PM

I get the feeling of them being hated for all sorts of reasons... 

 

They make good weights for a trot line...


It's your car, just don't ruin it.

 

It's also not my money, so i'll suggest the most expensive option. 

 

 


#57 Daryl

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Posted 31 May 2017 - 05:13 PM

I really don't want to take anything else apart. Pan doesn't look like it's ever been removed or tinkered with.

But we'll see what occurs tomorrow as we dive into it. 

 

I'm sure the gasket has turned to stone. Quite the "Hard" situation.  :rofl:



#58 Daryl

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 03:57 PM

Got some work done yesterday and found some interesting info on er.

 

Removed drive-shaft and dove into the output shaft. Bugger was so F*ing tight!

 

34292275433_52cf79a415_c.jpgP1030412 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Got off after a while of carefully prying at it.

 

35102180945_96a1baea1c_c.jpgP1030411 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Here's a close up of the leaking seal and it's a one piece non-replaceable!

 

34971522661_3f3da5c3db_z.jpgP1030407 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Ordered one off rock auto. Won't be in till next week so I did the next best thing. Clean and replace the round spring. Pop back in and hope it lowers leak some.

 

34937719112_9534e5edda_z.jpgP1030410 by cad lab, on Flickr



#59 Daryl

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 04:23 PM

Now onto some better stuff.

 

Drive-shaft looks like it's been replaced sometime in it's life to the C-clip U joint style. Heck Ya!

 

34937726222_f9633348d1_z.jpgP1030408 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

35062294316_f15b141372_z.jpgP1030409 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Outa all the Nuts one took quite the damage. Need to locate stainless steel equivalents to replace all of em next week.

 

34971530631_8636804717_z.jpgP1030419 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Added half a cup of GL4 to top off trans.

 

35062319956_7ae8a69083_z.jpgP1030418 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

Shes looking pretty on the underside.

 

35102173345_9fb8b1b14b_z.jpgP1030415 by cad lab, on Flickr

 

With canby around the corner, I underestimated time needed to replace parts. Should of done one large order in March. 

We'll It's a learning experience every time.



#60 Daryl

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Posted 04 June 2017 - 04:55 PM

Canby Itinerary - 洋子

June 9,10,11 - 2017

 

Route: HWY 128, HWY 1 (North), Drive Thru Tree Leggette, HWY 101, HWY 199, HWY 99, I-5 (Interstate), HWY 99E (East).

Distance: 578miles-1 way. / 1156miles-2way.

Time: 13hrs @ 45 - 50mph

Schedule:

Friday June 9:           Saturday June 10:     Sunday June 11:

Leave @ 6:00 a.m.       All-Day-Event.       Leave @ 7:00 - 8:00 a.m.

Arrival @ 7:00 p.m.                                       Arrival @ 8:00 - 9:00 p.m.

Cost:

Fuel ($3 per Gal x 9g) Full Tank Before Departure:

$190 Round trip @ 20mpg

$140 Round Trip @ 30mpg

--Total: $280 - $230 -- If all goes peachy.

 

34972492921_e9810b85b3_o.png2 by cad lab, on Flickr

35102962605_05c1b3b668_o.png1 by cad lab, on Flickr

Not going to lie I'm a slow driver even for being young. I get that a lot. Seen cars cut in half, no survivors. Leaves a mark in ya memory.