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Just a L-16, and its two big brothers.


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#1 DanielC

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Posted 09 February 2017 - 08:00 PM

So, I am working on a L-16 engine.  Got the block, crankshaft, rods, pistons, and bearings from the machine shop yesterday.  The block was bare, no paint from the machine shop cleaning it, and because of cool weather, rain, and a non heated garage, I took the parts in to the house.
The weather was unusually warm today, around 60 degrees, or 15 degrees outside of the USA.  It seemed like a good time to paint the block.
 
I do have a small space heater I can use in the garage, it is good for some localized heat.  I turned it on, and while the block was still in the house, I put masking tape on it, and attached a chain to two head bolt holes.  The block was then carried out to the garage, and hung on a cable winch.   The last two pictures in this post show the cable winch.
 
Right side of block.
BlockRt1.JPG

 
Left side of block.
BlockLf1.JPG
 
Back of block.
BlockBack1.JPG
 
I drilled an extra hole in the base plate of my engine stand.  I then just run bolts through the spacers for the top two engine bolts, and use the arms and spacers for the two bottom bolts.  This places the engine pivot higher on the block, and it balances an over head cam engine better, instead of having the engine pivot close to the crankshaft.
Block&Stand1.JPG
 
One of the lower bolts in place.
Block&Stand2.JPG
 
Another view of the top two bolts.
Block&Stand4.JPG
 
This is how I trimmed the masking tape.  Tap very lightly on the sharp edges of the block features, and it cuts the tape cleanly.
TapeTrim.JPG
 
I used a piece of cardboard to cover the bottom of the block.
BottomCover.JPG
 
I also put some plastic plugs in to the water drain, and oil pressure switch holes.
OilFilterPad.JPG
 
The front of the block.
FrontSurface.JPG
 
Core plug install.  I used a light coating of Permatex #1 on the edges of the core plug, and used a deep socket to hammer the plugs in.
CorePlugInstall.JPG
 
Then I mixed up some old Dupont Centari I had, and sprayed the block.
BlockRtPaint1.JPG
 
Left side of block, painted.  The block was still on the stand, when I painted this side, even thought it is hanging in the picture.
BlockLfPaint.JPG
 
Then I reattached the chain to hang the block, removed the engine stand, put in the back core plug, and painted the back of the block.  Notice the heater in the background, keeping the block warm to cure paint.
BlockBackPaint.JPG
 
This is the cable hoist I use to pick up the engine
BlockHung.JPG
 
Close picture for the chain attachment.  I am using two lifting lugs from other Datsun engines.
BlockHung2.JPG

#2 flatcat19

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Posted 09 February 2017 - 08:22 PM

What pistons you going to put in it?

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#3 DanielC

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Posted 09 February 2017 - 08:45 PM

The pistons ended up being a struggle to find.  NLA from Nissan, and I had my machine shop get them.  They are 1.0 MM oversized, but I had to get 6 of them, with rings.  They are made by ITM?  the pistons seem to have a shallower dish than the stock pistons have.

So if I rebuild a second L-16, I have to order a second set of six pistons, but then I have pistons for the third L-16 I rebuild.



#4 flatcat19

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Posted 09 February 2017 - 09:08 PM

240z pistons are same bore as L16 with zero dish.


Less dish to the pistons really opens up your head choices.

In a world where everyone is going SR or KA, good to see some sticking with the L.

You can't hang if your nuts haven't dropped...it's physics


#5 red13

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 08:53 AM

My l16 I rebuilt I used l24 Flat tops from itm. It had generic valve,reliefs cut, so I had proper ones,cut. Itm is a parts dealer such,as AutoZone/duralast. There parts are comparable to oem

#6 DanielC

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 08:55 AM

Thanks for the info, red.  Do you by any chance know what the dish CC volume on the pistons is?



#7 red13

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 10:39 AM

No I dont. I went the Flat tops. Which were above deck height cause they decked my block. So I had then shaved.

#8 red13

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 10:44 AM

Here is a faceb9ok page of my build. Easier go pic uploads. U can see some of my engine pics. https://facebook.com...854433418114441

#9 Crashtd420

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 11:53 AM

I was just checking this out and got curious.
Both Daniel and red your pcv tube sticks straight out... mines l16 is in a 72 521 matching numers and the pcv tube comes out the top... and even now I looked at some parts diagrams and they come straight out the side...
Screenshot_20170210-143203_zpswbokyhvl.p
Is there any significance to that?
Years? models?

#10 datzenmike

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 12:13 PM

L16/18 had the tube straight out through the exhaust. L20Bs are vertical, bend to the rear and go around the manifold. Look behind the dipstick handle on the block for the engine size.

 

You may have a later '70s imported block. Does the oil filter boss have 4 threaded bolt holes around it?  


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#11 Crashtd420

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 12:28 PM

Ya Im pretty sure it does ... that's for the oil filter relocation right? Or did it have another purpose?

#12 Crashtd420

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 12:29 PM

And it's definitely an l16.... it was stamped on it and it had 83mm bores before I got started...

#13 datzenmike

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 12:45 PM

The L18 was used well into the '80 in Australia 720s. L16 through '78

 

Loose the filter and connect up to your PCV valve. Engine will last longer and oil stay cleaner longer. There is no downside to a correctly running PCV system.


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#14 red13

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 01:17 PM

Each l16 had different smog stuff. The 521 had smog pump and air injection. The 620 had nothing except a fuel vent valve, which tied in to the block breather tube via a small nipple

#15 Crashtd420

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Posted 10 February 2017 - 05:38 PM

Filter is temporary. I am running a side draft with no hookup for a pcv. its one of the next things on my list of things to deal with after I get the motor running. Didn't wanna leave an open tube while I was figuring out what to do...

#16 Stoffregen Motorsports

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Posted 12 February 2017 - 09:21 AM

You could always try the cheater PCV method. Just plumb the vent tubes together using a tee, then plump the hose into the air cleaner. It will pull a slight vacuum when you're driving, but not much at idle. And it won't affect your carb tuning.

 

This pic shows my 320 with the PCV grommet in the top of the air cleaner. The hose was not hooked up at the time because I was doing some work on it.

 

IMG_2657Small.jpg



#17 DanielC

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Posted 15 February 2017 - 11:41 AM

If you do any work on a Datsun L-16 or L-18 engine, you need to go close to the bottom of this page, and down load the Nissan L-16, L-18 service manual.
http://www.davidcmur...dat/620tech.htm
 
The PDF version of the manual is probably better quality than there two images from that manual that I converted to a format that I can put in photobucket.
 
assembly1.jpg
 
Assembly2.jpeg
 
I laid out the bearing caps, and new bearings.
Bearings&Caps.JPG
 
I used some pipe cleaners and some solvent to do a final clean on the block oil passages, and the passages in the crankshaft.
PlastiSolvent.JPG
 
BlockBare.JPG
 
I then set the bearings in the block.  Number one upper bearing has a tiny hole to match the extra hole in the block.
Your bearings may be slightly different than Nissan OEM bearings.  Pay attention to the bearing notes in the service manual.
 
BearingsInBlock2.JPG
 
I wanted to double check that the crankshaft matched the bearings, the crank was ground .010 under in the mains, and rods.  I carefully set the crank on the bearings,
CrankInBlock.JPG
 
set a piece of Plastigauge onm the top of the crank journal,
PlastiOnCrank.JPG
 
Bolted the cap on, torqued it, and removed it again.   thjis is what the plastigauge showed me.  I did this to all five main bearings.
PlastiChecked.JPG
 
The rear main cap is a little difficult to remove.  This is how I do it.  one of the few tools I got at Harbor freight.
SlideHammerSet.JPG
 
I thread a M8-1.25 bolt in to the hole provided in the end main bearing cap, and use the adapter shown to hook under the bolt head, and gently pull the main cap up and out of the block.
SlideHammerBolt.JPG 
I then used the paint thinner, and some Q-tips to clean the plastigauge off the crank journals, and bearings.  Time to put the crank in for real.
SlideHammer1.JPG
 
This is the bearing prelube I used.
BearingLube.JPG
 
After installing the main bearings, I checked the end play of the crank with a dial gauge.  It was slightly over .002.
EndPlay1.JPG
 
With the end play checked, I then removed each cap bolt, cleaned it off again with lacquer thinner, and applied a thread locker, and then torqued each bolt to the specification, see the page from the service manual above.
CapTorque.JPG
 
 
These are the parts for the block oil baffle for two L-16 engines.   I have two engines apart, and it does not take much more time to clean small parts for two engines, than it does for one engine.
BafflePlateNet.JPG
 
Oil Baffle cavity.
BaffleCavity.JPG
 
Oil baffle net installed.
BaffleNetInBlock.JPG
 
Oil baffle plate and screws installed.  I used Locktite on these screws also.
BaffleInBlock.JPG
 
BaffleScrew.JPG
 
 
One of the members on Ratsun.net made a seal installer a few years ago.  It uses the flywheel bolts to evenly push the seal into the block.
CrankSeal.JPG
 
seal installed.
CrankSealInstaller.JPG

#18 DanielC

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 05:38 AM

Saturday May20, 2017 I cleaned the outside of a 521/L16 oil pan.  Used an electric orbital sander on some of it.  But before I did this, I cleaned off the outside with steel wool, Dawn and water, then more scrubbing with paint thinner, and steel wool.  Earlier I had also cleaned a second oil pan.
OilPan&Orbil.JPG
 
This is how I clamped it to the bench.  this works on the sides, and the back of the oil pan.  Also did some hand sanding.
OilPanClamped.JPG
 
After cleaning, the pans got primed with PPG DP40 LF, and then painted with some blue Dupont Centari I had.
OilPan1Paint.JPG
 
OilPan2Paint.JPG

#19 Doctor510

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 07:36 AM

Looks like in the picture that shows the bearings installed that you need to swap the bearing shells #2 and #5.. There are two different widths the wider ones go in #1 and #5  Be sure that you used the shell with TWO oil holes in #1



#20 datzenmike

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Posted 21 May 2017 - 09:00 AM

There are 5 main bearings. All the same but the thrust bearing, and it goes in the middle or #3 position. Looks correct to me. Block vent is driver's side and between #3 and #4 bearings.

 

Main bearings only have one hole. Mount the shells with the oil hole and the groove into the block to let oil down to the crank which is cross drilled to feed the rod bearings. Top and bottom shells are interchangeable so watch out. Tops have an oil hole and a groove, bottoms are smooth and solid.  Again, looks OK.

 

My FSM says #2 and #4 are the same and #1 and #5 at the back are the same but that the front has an oil hole. This makes little sense as how would the rear crank journal be fed oil??? (probably some translation error) The rear of the block is drilled for oil and all my bearings look the same with a groove and an oil hole for the tops and solid bottoms except the #3 thrust bearing.


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